Bear Kodiak hunter 1970's. 45# pull(7.75 to 9.0 brace tried) I pull 27.5" . Tried 2016's,,,1916's,,,1816's,, field tips to 175 gr. Would I gain that last 3-4 inches to the right by going to 1716's??

With that heavy a head, 1916 should be near perfect. Something else is amiss here, not so much a spine issue. Tell us more about string, rest type, etc.

just my guestament; I would think 1716 would be too weak (more like 30 to 35# bow)

would think the 1916's would be right

(How do they fly with feathers)

I use 2016's out of a 49# bow with 175 grain points arrow cut 27"BOP- FF string

I draw just a slight over 27" and I can shoot 2016 at 28" with 175 grain tips. Need to know more about your setup. 1716 is much to limber...you have other issues we can maybe figure out, up to and including a form problem.

What’s the arrow length? I’m shooting about 28” arrows; 1916 around low #50s and 1816 at mid-upper #40s; kinda questioning if they might be a little weak, but I could always go to 100 grain points....

Are you sure that you have ruled out a false positive?

I used to shoot left, no matter my spine. It drove me nuts. What I finally figured out was that I was pushing with my left shoulder instead of the left side of my back. When I let the string go my left shoulder was flying out to the left. I always shot high and left. I have incorporated checking for left side back tension into my shot sequence and it cured my left shooting. Everything needs to be pulling or pushing in a straight line so when the bow unloads everything proceeds in a straight line. At least, that's what worked for me.

string is flemish---flipper 2 rest,,,AAE tab...SRF site a and b tried but they dont have enough threads to to where needed,, I suspect operator error but cant find it

Ooops, and I'm shooting 44# at my draw.

nomo-----that sounds familiar----I'll get a high and left then drop 'em all together just left---- Am I facing target to straight and need to turn some

also can someone explain a false positive to mr>>>>????

I tend to agree with nomo sounds like a shoulder issue to me, try to cant your bow a tad with the best flying arrow you have.

It should be a 1916 28.5" bop. Try something simple. Fletch up an arrow, anchor and draw the bow so your eye is lined up with the arrow, cant the bow a little to make that happen, put a vertical line on the target and in that same line-up, put a marker on the ground about where your arrow point comes when doing practice draws, line the whole thing up at full draw, eye line to the arrow, arrow to the marker and line on the target, and release. Keep the bow still and keep your release hand against your face, it can slide back a little , but do not break the contact. If you shoot high or low correct the marker to the degree you were high or low. From 12 yards and beyond you should not seer the sides of the shaft flopping left and right. Your bow shoulder should not jam up into your cheek, your drawing forearm should be in line with the arrow, your head should be in a comfortable non-exaggerated position. You will be using the proper muscles with that final posture without jumping through hoops.

Sounds to me like you are looking through the string, and not looking at the tip of the arrow in relation to the string.

If you're right handed, the string and nock look like they are aligned, but the point of the arrow isn't.

If you see the arrow on the left side of the string, move the point of the arrow to either the middle of the string, or slightly to the right of the string while at full draw.

The arrow will move to the right just like magic.

If you don't do that, then you're going to have to keep chasing spine.

It's one of two things. Either your stance is too open or your shoulder. Try with your feet side by side putting your left side to the target.

Could be an aiming issue and/or anchor point. Close to what fdp is saying, but we have know idea of what style of shooting you are attempting.

We do not know what length and fletching he is playing with, but speculating is fun. I am betting that his hand is jerking the release and pile driving the arrow into the bow, but I am just making an impossible guess for fun.

I shoot high to the left like nomo said and like dean said too. got to be in control and focused on both hands to shoot well.

False Positive - there are a few of us around here who have speculated that if your spine is far enough out of whack, an arrow can take long enough to straighten up and settle out that is appears to be too stiff even when it's much too weak, or vice-versa...

At one point, I was shooting full-length tapered cedars #41-#42 spine out of my Bamboo Viper (marked #50@28" and I draw an inch or so less than that). And they were hitting to the left (bare shaft); slow mo video showed them flying nock-right just before impact.

But that bow shoots beautifully with a 28" 1816 and a 125 up front. Which is just about what the calculator calls for.... and about #20 stiffer spine than that woodie should have been at that length.

Somehow I get the feeling that joel0711 is sighting on the arrow point, anchoring to the right, causing the arrow to go left, and then looking for a weak spine to bring the arrow impact to the right.

A crappy release with a non solid anchor will cause left hits

Alignment issue, peeking issues, and wrong position of my wrist causing the bow to torque left. Ya, that’s me! If I do any of the above my arrows go left.

Got that right

What, if any, is your aiming system? How thick is your side plate? Could you be sighting down the inside of sight window?

If your side plate is somewhat thick try removing it and put on a piece of masking tape to protect the bow and shoot it and see what that does. If that does the trick, go with a thinner side plate.

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