So I’m shooting a 56@28 mahaska longbow Only drawing at about 26...and would like to shoot a 28” shaft... havnt decided on a Broadhead weight... but would prefer something around 200grns What spine and do I need to buy a tapering tool and glue? Do I need to bareshaft woodies? I’m new to trad... don’t judge Lol

Your probably drawing about 52 lbs, I shoot 26" also. I'd find a 50-55 spline in wood.

If you are shooting a 28" shaft then you need the correct spine for a 28" arrow based on the draw weight of your bow at 26".

Somebody will probably fuss me for saying this, but don't overthink it. Get something close and shoot it's traditional. I used to turn out my own shafts and I didn't spine test or anything and killed three deer till I started shooting spline arrows. Get something close to what you need and just shoot a lot and you'll be shooting great groups.

Thanks guys... so when I order arrows Should I just order a dozen with field tips on them and worry about Broadhead Slater in the year when hunting season approaches? Or should I buy them and a taper tool.. then glue half field points and half Broadheads... also What wooden arrows do you all recommend I’m sure being a beginner I’ll be losing arrows here and there... so I’m looking for the best bang for the buck.. thanks guys

I'm going to guess that if you put a 200 grain head on a woodie, you will have a Lawn Dart trajectory that may not serve you well....

If you're going to order arrows, just ask the guy you're buying from and he'll set you up properly - if you don't trust him enough to choose the spine for you, you can't trust him to build them, either.

You CAN bare-shaft wood arrows, but if you like a 4 1/2" - 5" feather, and especially if you like helical fletching job, it's probably more effort than necessary. Some folks here told me I was nuts to bother bare-shafting with wood but it worked out OK enough...

Most important thing (assuming you're going to hunt with these) is to have broadheads that spin true; then any "tuning" that you do would be just to bring the BH into the same group as the FPs. Assuming that you can shoot well enough to prove that the BH hit any different...

I would order a test kit of arrows from someone, because there is a little more to it than just basing off of draw weight and length. Is the arrow pass cut short of center, center, or past center. Type of string? Bow design? I would gather some of this info and call someone like 3Rivers, Kustom King, Lancaster, or one of the many other suppliers, give them all your particulars and ask them for their recommendations.

I can shoot 55-60 with 200 grain heads, actually 190 grain heads. My arrows are 27" to the back of the point with a very similar bow, a Robertson longbow. The Mahaska, I believe, is 1/8" outside of center. The taper tool would need to be either an 11/32" or 23/64" depending on which shafts you have. The cheap ones work fine if the blades are sharp and you do not force the cut. To align points I have a couple of V notch double end wood dubers around here some where, but most of the time I simply put an arrow on my bottom bracket of my Jo-jan and rotate the point close to a mark. If the arrow is straight, when the point, sitting on its bed of still warm hot melt, rotates in a circle around that point, my is just a letter on a can of varnish at the moment, it needs to be slightly heated and then held in the corrected position with a pliers. Then check by gently rotating and make any addition correction. Not rock science at all. You can get your arrows pre cut to length, but you do not need to. Wapiti Archery can be a lot of personal help for you and have superb quality shafts. if you are completely new to all of this trad stuff going with basic wood is a good plan. How sold are you on those 200 grain heads? Lighter weight heads are just as good, unless you are planning on hunting something very large and are would allow a lighter spine. When I make arrows for my friends the heaviest I go for point weight is 145 grains and prefer 125 grains. The broadheads being 145 grain Ribtecs and 125 grain Zwickey Eskimos.

It's hard to beat Surewood shafts. They will know what you need for your set up. Also Tommy at Rocky mountain Specialty gear can set you up too.

Not at all sold on the 200 grn heads... Just really didn’t know what direction to go there.

Thank you all so much! I’ll contact one of these companies and see what I can find!

If the bow is not cut to center then under spine arrows will work.

I'd go with 55/60 spine & 125gr field points... u can order cut to length (usually 1" longer than your draw length) & have them glue on the points unless j want to do it yourself

I was thinking what Oly said.

Assuming that you'll do some this yourself...

Test kit was a good idea posted earlier. Maybe a few different weight points also, ranging from 125 grain up to 190 or so. That'll let you play around with different configurations to see what flies best or what you like best. The arrows in the test kit (at least the ones witch which I am familiar) will come fletched and full length. You then cut to a length (work bench miter box or many other methods), mount the point, and shoot. Cut long then adjust shorter as necessary because cutting off more is much easier than adding length. Shoot from 20 yards or so even if you are not accurate at that range; this so you can see trends - are they all generally impacting right or left; high or low. Then google or search on this sight for what to do with those trends before making adjustments. Options abound!

For woodies, yes a pencil sharpener style taper tool will work. As stated, make sure you get the same diameter sharpener as the shafts and sharpen with the correct degree taper hole in the sharpener (one hole is for the nock end of the shaft). I've not yet owned Douglas Fir shafts but have read that the pencil sharpener type tool dulls quickly with that type of wood. I hear that Douglas Fir is fantastic otherwise though.

To mount and remove various points yourself you'll need adhesive (usually glue stick type), a heat source, and pliers (to not burn your finger tips). If you find a vendor with a test kit (or just shafts) they should have options for adhesive. They also sell alcohol burners for the heat source, but a candle or propane torch will work, (or make your own burner - google again).

A word of caution - one bow and a set of arrows looks silly all by themselves. A wall full of bows on a rack and a bucket full of various spined arrows is way more cool. There is no vaccine for this either.

you got a few things going on that are going to likely change but for now....you are drawing 26" but want 28" shaft...easy enough...starting point is 50-55 spine. Then you mention a 200gr broadhead up front...that is a good two sizes leap above the normal 125...I would add 10# to spine for that head up front. So now you are at 60-65 if NOT center shot longbow...and maybe 65-70 if bow is CENTERSHOT Longbow.

I personally would get a 60-65# shaft at 28" BOP....and if too weak would cut 1/2 inch off...and see how it goes from there.

If really new to trad archery I would actually recommend you stick with a 125gr head like a Zwickey Eskimo...that is easy to mount, easy to sharpen, and wont be a huge influence on your dynamic spine....until you gain some experience and learn how your personal form and shooting style affects your arrow flight.

If you stick with a 125gr head then would get a set of 50-55# spine woodies and enjoy them and shoot them. If a little weak then cut 1/2 inch off and shoot some more. One of those two lengths should work for most people with your setup.

That being said everyone is different....so you may have to play with it but for a beginner, I think that will cover you fine as you keep your shots to 10-15yds initially while you concentrate on good form, good back tension, good follow through...and shooting good arrow sequences. If they are all grouping in same area then your form is good and can start tweaking your shooting style or arrow spine for the bow.

Dont forget to keep up on brace height and your shooting form as well as influencers of your arrow flight.

Might want to get a book like TJ Conrads Traditional Bowhunters Handbook from 3 Rivers and do some research and reading so you undertand all the nuances and options....instead of shotgunning your approach all over the place.

Good luck...

keep em sharp,

ron herman

200 grain points would be way wrong. Normal for wooden arrows is from 100 to 145 grains with 125 being most common. I would get 3 or 4 weights of field points in that range, a pencil type taper tool and a stick of hot melt glue from your hardware store.

Then get three or more dozen run of the mill shafts or arrows from your local archery shop or one on line. You will soon lose or break those arrows so buy cheap ones. I would start with 45 and 50 pounds spine, get both. You will have a reasonable idea of how to go by the time hunting season approachs.

Get some judo points too, for casual practice in forest and field.

50# shafts and 125 grain points have taken mountains of game. - lbg

If your going to hunt with woodies I would go with 60 -65 spine.Taking into consideration broadheads and your bow design, shelf set up etc.

Tundra

I shoot 26" shafts that spine to the draw weight of a Asl at my draw. This makes the shafts spine 10# more as the gain is 5#/"

If you have already registered, please

sign in now

For new registrations

Click Here