Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


writing serial numbers on a refinish

Messages posted to thread:
finsky 12-Dec-17
Sailor 12-Dec-17
Jeff Durnell 12-Dec-17
George Tsoukalas 12-Dec-17
George Tsoukalas 12-Dec-17
unhinged 12-Dec-17
AK Pathfinder 12-Dec-17
jk 12-Dec-17
M60gunner 12-Dec-17
jk 12-Dec-17
Phil Magistro 12-Dec-17
Keefers 12-Dec-17
Keefers 12-Dec-17
Keefers 12-Dec-17
Keefers 12-Dec-17
SB 12-Dec-17
finsky 12-Dec-17
From: finsky
Date: 12-Dec-17




I am currently refinishing a Bear Tamerlane bow, the bow was sanded down to the bare wood and the gold serial number and bow specs were sanded off as to not have a shaded area once finish is applied. My problem is using a wipe on poly MInwax finish for several coats then writing the specs back on the bow with a gold paint pen. I then wanted to apply another coat or two of poly and it had a reaction with the paint and basically smeared it. I did give the gold paint a few days before trying to apply the poly. Should I try a specific kind of paint pen or another type of gold ink ? I would guess the gold paint should have a protective layer or two over it.

From: Sailor
Date: 12-Dec-17




Not sure about your particilar application but you can do a couple of light mist spray applications over the numbers and when dry apply a heaver coa t for protection. I would try a sample run on a scrap first before trying the bow.

From: Jeff Durnell Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 12-Dec-17




I've never used wipe on poly on a bow, but I have used clear lacquer in an aerosol can to seal off lettering that would run with other finishes. It dries fast, before the lettering is affected and seals it off.

I lettered the bows raw because I didn't want to put lacquer over a coat of poly. Let the lettering dry, then hit it with a very light coat of lacquer, not much more than a heavy mist, let it dry, it dries fast, hit it again if you like, let it dry, then do the poly thing.

Do it on a test piece first of course.

From: George Tsoukalas
Date: 12-Dec-17




I've noticed the same thing when toning my self bows. I use a marker and spar urethan over it smudges the writing but polyacrylic does not. Jawge

From: George Tsoukalas
Date: 12-Dec-17




that's when signing my self bows. :)

From: unhinged
Date: 12-Dec-17




I would guess you would want to make sure your paint pen and finish do not have the same solvent base.

From: AK Pathfinder
Date: 12-Dec-17




Try re-writing the bow , let it dry for 24 hours then use a spray poly in a couple light coats to seal it. You can then go back to the wipe on if you wish.

From: jk
Date: 12-Dec-17




Micron pen, .01 (ultra skinny) writes well over my poly (on edges of limbs) as well as on glossy photo prints. Supposed to be "archival." Got them from a local art supply store.

From: M60gunner
Date: 12-Dec-17




X2 the Micron pen. I use it to sign bamboo Flyrods I make. I put a coat of True Oil on the bamboo between the glue up stage and wrapping ferrules and guides on. Then I add more coats of True oil but careful using the steel wool in that area between coats. I tried the “marker” pen at first but the letters faded over time.

From: jk
Date: 12-Dec-17




For gold or silver I'd try the"Gangy" brand paint marker, very fine. It's got some kind of oil base, gives off fumes...so poly shouldn't dissolve it but I'd test that first.

From: Phil Magistro
Date: 12-Dec-17




I try to leave the original writing on the bow whenever I can, just feather in the edges. Most times it isn't noticeable where the finishes meet. If I'm going to put lettering on the bow I put the initial coat of finish on first. Then I sand the area and apply the lettering using a fine point calligraphy pen and ink. For gold I use Speedball gold ink. For black I use India ink. I have white ink but haven't used it much at all. I have tried most everything I could find over the years and this setup works the best for me.

I spray a light coat of polycrylic over the writing and let it dry before continuing with the other bow finish.

If I'm using lacquer I put a light coat of lacquer over the lettering before putting more coats on the bow.

From: Keefers
Date: 12-Dec-17

Keefers's embedded Photo



As Phil described to me a few years ago I did as he did and used a water based Ink that Recurve Crafter had on his website (Brandon Stahl) and both these guys helped me with their advice on refinishing a 59 Kodiak !

Here's a before picture the day I got it!

From: Keefers
Date: 12-Dec-17

Keefers's embedded Photo



From: Keefers
Date: 12-Dec-17

Keefers's embedded Photo



Sorry for the double picture but here is writing with the Ink Brandon Stahl told us about and you use the minway waterbase poly as Phil suggested to go over it very light coats!

From: Keefers
Date: 12-Dec-17

Keefers's embedded Photo



That was supposed to be "MinWax" poly! I think I have the original writing also so bear with me ! May show upside down I haven't figured out how to get picture to post correctly..Sorry folks.

From: SB
Date: 12-Dec-17




I use Tru-Oil on risers. No issues with the writing. Just put the first coat that you apply over the writing thin and quick.

From: finsky
Date: 12-Dec-17




Thanks for all the ideas. It seems the micron pen would be great but looks like it is not available in gold. I will research Gangy pens and the idea of polycrylic then back to wipe on poly may be an option also.





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