What would be a good arrow to start with for a 42# @28 Pronghorn 3 piece longbow! I draw 28" and plan on hunting whitetail with it.

Aluminium,Carbon,or wood?

Not sure what the Pronghorn likes.... I have four bows around 42#'s , they all like 1916's.

The pronghorn likes a heavy arrow. Simplest my be an aluminum arrow, say 2016. I would start around 31.5, but I like a long arrow...

Try a 1916(.623 spine) with a 42# bow,a 30" 1916 with 125 gr. head will weigh around 475 grs..Plenty good for hunting and will give you approximately in the 11-11.5 GPP range.

Bow's shoot an arrow that you tune it with. If you let the bow decide what arrow, the stupid thing might choose and arrow that flies to the target sideways. LOL.

2016's probably not a bad choice at a defection of .531, but I think .600 would be better. A lot depends on how close to center it's cut.

Bowmania

For my RER #55@28" - drawn around 26.5"-27", with an arrow length of 28" and 125 up front, a 2016 shoots just fine with 5" parabolics, but is too stiff when shot bare-shaft. My Howatt Hunter, same specs, shoots that arrow perfectly, because of the difference in center-shot.

A 29" 1916 is a bit underspined, and the jury is still out on a 600 carbon - they act a little weak with the bow kept plumb vertical, but appear to be flying right down the middle with a little cant.

Weird.

I'm getting about #45 out of my Howatt Bamboo Viper, and it seems happy with the 600, while the 1916 might be on the stiff side. May have to drop down to 1816s, but for some reason I just don't like those skinny, skinny shafts. They're like those scrawny supermodel legs where the knee joint is the biggest part.

Big Jim blem GoldTip Traditional 600 full length with three 4" feather fletchings and 150gr point.

That's a good start

I do things a little different then most, but truth of the matter is you need to know a few more details before choosing the right spine arrow. #1 what broadhead are you shooting? #2 how wide is it? #3 how heavy is it? #4 are you planing on using a lighted nock? So here is how I have been figuring out my arrows for 30 some odd years now. Ask these questions 1 - What is the true draw weight at your draw length? * my favorite longbow draws 55# at my 29.5 inch draw **so I write down 55# as my starting spine. 2 - How long of an arrow do I need? * I personal hate long arrows so all my arrows are 30" long ** Now I add 5# of spine for each inch my arrow is past 28" (arrows are spine tested at 28 inches long) so 2" past I add 10# to my starting 55# giving me now 65# spine (subtract 5# of spine for every inch shorter than 28" arrow also) 3 - How heavy is the head I am shooting? * Add 5# of spine for any head over 150Gr. and 5# for every 100gr. heavier up front. ** I like more FOC in my arrows so I shoot 100 grain inserts with 125 to 175 grain heads (you can do with with inserts or steel screw in adapters or even woody weights) so that adds another 10# to my spine so now at 75#. 4 - How wide is my broadhead? * I have found over many years that a head over 1.25" wide stabilizes better and faster with a slightly stiffer shaft so add 5# of spine for a head wider that 1.25 ** any more Most of my favorate heads for the game I hunt fall between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 inches wide so my number stays the same. 5 - am I shooting a lighted nock? * not at issue with wood arrows but carbon or aluminum you can. If you do take 5# off your spine as adding weight to the back of an arrow will make a shaft stiffer. ** I do like lighted nocks for low light shooting so I subtract 5# bringing me to a arrow spine of 70#

For me it means a 400 spine carbon (400 = 55# - 75# spine)or a 2216 aluminum or 70 - 75# spine wood. because my arrows are cut to 30" with my 29.5 inch draw the broadhead comes against my first finger if I pull slightly past my anchor. so I cant overdraw my bow but bent or twisted outside of my normal shooting stance I may short draw so I like the spine at the top edge in case I short draw

This method has worked for me almost 30 years now with out having to adjust arrows unless I changed broadheads. In my opinion the broadhead selection is the most important to match the game I am hunting. Where I will shoot a four blade at Turkeys all day long I took 2 blades to Africa for penetration. Outside your bow your shooting the broadhead is what does the work so Pick the Bow and Draw weight then the Broadhead and THEN pick the arrow that matches both!

Oh lordy. Spine your arrows to the bow and don't worry about broadheads entering the fray. They shouldn't fly any different unless you a way over weight...or underweight with the broadheads. You didn't mention string material....one of the biggest factors nowadays. If a modern string material, then likely a 2016 at 29". You may be able to use a 1916 with a Dacron string. A 600 carbon left at 30".

I get my arrows to fly with broad heads first.. That's what is most important to me, as a bowhunter.

I do it a little different than Gillow but his description makes good sense . After a fellow uses a process successfully for many years there really seems little reason to change.

We sometimes tend to forget the human factor.. Which sometimes changes things to where A and B don't always add up the same for everyone

chris

Hey George you make a great point on string material. Sounds like a lot of fun to play with to see. I've always been one to shoot heavy wide broadhead sin the past and found I had to stiffen my spine which is why I figured it into my little calculations ( I heard of many shooters having issue with wide broadhead flying well and I didn't which is why I started playing with it in the first place. And a admitted tinkerer of all thing I have to figure stuff out. Lol feel sorry for my wife??. But thanks again for the idea about the strings!

Hey George you make a great point on string material. Sounds like a lot of fun to play with to see. I've always been one to shoot heavy wide broadhead sin the past and found I had to stiffen my spine which is why I figured it into my little calculations ( I heard of many shooters having issue with wide broadhead flying well and I didn't which is why I started playing with it in the first place. And a admitted tinkerer of all thing I have to figure stuff out. Lol feel sorry for my wife??. But thanks again for the idea about the strings!

Tinkering is fun, no doubt about it. )

If you get arrows to fly bareshaft, broadheads just work. It's magic

Try 600s and forget abput any advice you get on arrow length--- your tuning will determine this.

Yep, I would try GT Traditional 1535s.

www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click on 'download printable version'. The broadhead tuning it towards the end.

Read what George said.

Get the broadheads to IMPACT where the fletched shaft with the same weight point IMPACT. Follow the rule of acsbows as if the broadhead arrow was the bare shaft.

Bowmania

I would try Easton 2013 shafts. They are heavy enough and the spine should be right (610). They shoot nice out of my longbows of the same draw weight as yours.

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