Wondering if you have used them and your opinions on them. Thanks.

Use hot melt glue , so I can get them to spin straight . I have both types of adapters from glue to threads and back the other way . I have noticed minor impact point changes due to length change and weight increase . But I tend to pick close targets only, shoot them and see for your self

They work fine. Just get them true and have at it. I would use twp part epoxy to set them. You'll have more working time to ensure trueness. I can't recall how much they way, but it is not much. About 30-35 grains, I believe. Maybe more.

Just checked They weigh an average of 50gr each. Lancaster and 3 Rivers carries them. So does The Nocking Point.

They work. Because they add a couple inches of length, I use them to convert target arrows that have broken behind the point into small game an stumping arrows. The aluminum adapter makes the arrow much more durable with a slip-on rubber blunt, or you can screw on a threaded judo.

I used them when I shot DART video. You had to use their screw in reflective blunts. Worked great.

do not know could of been old glue stick but had a hard time keeping the aluminum glued to the wood. it work good for gluing steel tips on wood shafts. but couldn't keep the adapters on?

I use TopHat screw on adapters for most of my wood arrows... and I only use wood arrows. They add 3/4" to the BOP length so you need shafts cut that much longer. You need the gripping vise they sell to screw the adapters on with. And of course the right size for the shaft. Even so, many of my shafts need a bit of sanding for them to screw on easily enough. I also found that heating the adapter a bit with a lighter helps them go on, if the fit is a bit too tight. But if you force it too much they can crack. Once on, they stay on no problem.

A variety of points are available that screw into the adapter. Different weights and shapes. 3Rivers carries some, Lancaster others. Even more are available in Europe, e.g., eBay UK. The adapter weighs 40 grains and the lightest point that 3Rivers sells is 85 grains, so you get a standard 125 grain point in the end. You can buy heavier points in increments of about 20 grains, and Lancaster sometimes has lighter points, 60 or 80 grains with a cool long tapered cone. You can also add 1 grain or 5 grain weights, so this system is almost infinitely adaptable to tune arrows by changing point weight. And of course, point types like field blunt or broadhead.

I'm a fan.

Shandor

My personal opinion is that if I felt the need to have screw-in adapters on my arrows, I'd just use carbon or alum. arrows. To me, tapering and gluing heads on wood arrows is part of the charm of wood arrows. But that's just my opinion. If someone wants to put screw-in adapters on their wood arrows, it would be a far cry from the strangest thing I've ever seen in this sport.

I used them some years back. Tried to strengthen the tip end of my woods. I was shooting 70-80# bows then and woods blew apart if I hit a solid object. I used hot melt but roughed up inside of adapter and wood taper. Still have some somewhere. These days I have found the Top Hat screw on system more to my liking. The taper is the weakest part of the arrow. With Top Hat there is no need to taper the shaft.

I've used the for turkey hunting, using a Magnus Bullhead. Worked pretty good.

Limbwalker, I love the charm of wood arrows and only use wood arrows. I allows me to feel more connected to the tradition of archery going back thousands of years, compared to using synthetic materials. At the same time I want accuracy and consistency in my shooting. Many people said I had to get carbon arrows to achieve that but by using wood arrows all spined to the same pound and within 5-10 grains of weight, and using screw in adapters with the ability to change point weight a gram at a time or more, I can fine tune my woodies and get the same accuracy as carbon arrows. At least the arrows CAN be accurate, the rest is up to me.

To me, sanding down the blunt points so that adapters can be screwed on, and screwing them on, is no different a process than tapering and gluing. But as you said to each his own.

I think to get the most authenticity from wood arrows, one would use pitch or hide glue and sinew wrapping. And flint points. Some do, but most of us don't go back that far in time.

I forgot to mention a drawback of TopHat adapters. Sometimes they crack when the arrow hits a hard object. On the other hand, it's the adapter that's cracking and needs replacing, not the whole arrow.

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