I have been trying to keep using the Hot melt glue for my inserts, but I am getting tired of pulling inserts from my targets and resetting them all the time. There is a chance I may not be doing it right, but it can't be rocket science. I was told not to use basic super glue as any solid impact would crack the glue and let the insert pull out, but I have been putting a lot of them in lately. What glue are you using with carbon arrows and brass inserts? Currently I heat the insert, rub it on top of the glue stick, stick insert into arrow and make a full turn to evenly spread the glue, then rinse in cold water. I know high heat is not good on carbon arrows. Any input is appreciated... Unless it's just shoot wood. I get it, they look better, feel better and shoot fine. I am not ready for the work involved in making them yet.

Thank You, -Bones

I just switched to carbons, still allot wood but I used DAP quick setting glue, it's like a super glue. It's been great. I never heard you can't use supper glue. I did with no issues and I have put those arrows through my 68# bow quite a bit.

Contrary to what a lot of others will say I use epoxy. A slow cure golf shaft epoxy made to take the shock of hitting things. The downside, and a BIG downside is it is not reversible. So when bareshaft tuning I cut the shaft from the nock end. Not what a lot of guys like but I have yet to lose an insert. I am beginning to question the slow melt glue so popular here and other sites. Been losing the field tips off my woods. I soak the points in a jar of Acetone and use the wire brush 3R sells to get rid of any oils. I was hoping it lasted longer than the old standby, Ferrule Tite which becomes brittle after a couple years. Once my stock of regular field point goes away I am switching totally to the Top Hat system of screwing on the points. My experiences, take them as such, your experiences may vary.

Insert Iron, Gorrila, JB weld, Hit epoxy. The all work. Rooty

I use a hot melt and have had no trouble. I do coat the entire insert though and let the excess push out the front of the arrow and then clean it off.

Orion, I have been doing the same thing, but it seems to give the bond up after a dozen or so shots. I may have to explore some other options, keep it coming and thank you.

-Bones

I use Goat Tuff Glue and Easton insert glue...basically a fast dry, Super Glue sort of adhesive....once installed, they are not coming out.

Hot melt here....I lose inserts but only after hitting trees a few times

I use gorilla gel super glue. I cut, scrub the inside and Red scotch- Brite the insert. Wipe with denatured alcohol, Q-Tip for inside shaft. Then glue. Holds up 98% of the time. Until I hit something very hard :-\ JF

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Carbon Shaft Adhesive is all I use for carbon arrows now. It holds well, and easy to remove. It is the blue Ferr-L-Tite. Randy

Dry Bones I have no problem with ferrule tight but I have never used brass inserts?? Also I make sure the field point is not the slightest bit bigger than the shaft so it does not hang up in the target. The points with a slight bevel on the back are even better. In a pinch when I didn't have the weight I wanted to try in the correct size,I used a belt sander to break the edge on the back corner.Hope that helps.>>>----> Ken

Clean it and use super glue

Hot melt only sticks to hot metal since metals non porous. Heat the insert and melt glue on it. Put it in the arrow and move to the next one. Once they're done and cooled heat the shaft lightly where the insert is till the insert wi'll turn easily. Let it cool again n ur done. Both pieces of metal gotta be hot n doing it that way prevents overheating the shaft.

Be sure to clean the insert and the inside of the shaft. I wipe down the exterior of each shaft, then use a Q-tip to clean inside the insert end of each shaft. Before assembly, I wipe down the inserts.

After that, I use the cheapest 'hot glue' I can find to install the inserts. The hot melt has worked great for me and typically there is little to no mess. -Sweet

Proper preparation is very beneficial. As mentioned clean both insert and inside of shaft, I prefer denatured alcohol since I use it in the alcohol burner. Big Jim's hot melt has worked very well for me for broadhead/adapter adhesion. Prefer to epoxy inserts in carbon shafts with golf shaft epoxy also.

Proper shaft & insert preparation is key to a good bond. Big Jim's hot melt is the best I've used for carbon. He even has a short how to video on his website. Good luck

X2 on blue Ferr L Tite. It is more rubbery than the original and melts at a lower temp. Also, it's removable with heat. Not one failure in 2 years. I shoot 100+ per day.

I have also heard great things about Big Jims hot melt. He has a couple videos about that product on his website.

I've used regular hot melt on my arrows with brass inserts and haven't had one fail yet. I screw a field point into the insert and heat the field point until the insert is just hot enough to melt the glue when touched. After coating the insert I push it into the arrow and give it a turn and let cool on it's own. I wonder if cooling it with cold water cools it TOO fast and messes with the bond. Always clean inside of arrow and insert with alcohol first. Hope you get something figured out.

boning blue hot melt stick 100% on carbons. works well for me.. clean shafts first w/acetone. 99.9% success

I don't cool my hot melt with water. I just let it air cool. I always wondered if cold water could crack the hot melt or make it pull away from the shaft when it cooled quickly. I very seldom lose an insert. Maybe 3 or 4 in 10 years.

After reading all your posts, I am thinking it may have something to do with cooling... Maybe. While shooting a few broadheads today I pulled a zwickey off it's insert, again another cold water treatment when setting. I also am now starting to really think about my heat source. i normally clean insert, and apparently need to clean the shaft, but I am using 100% bee wax candles and they are pretty sooty. I wipe the soot off before applying glue, but the residue may still be there. Second question. Those that are using some form of hot melt, what do you use as a heat source? Thanks again,

-Bones

I use big jims hot melt and heat with an alcohol lamp or gas stove. Works very well on carbons. Also use JB Weld. Downside of JB is it is permanent

I just use the kitchen stove. I also screw an old point in the insert hole the point with pliers and heat it until it melts the glue,warm the glue as I go and rub the hot insert on it.>>>----> Ken

I clean the insert and inside of the broad head with alcohol. Lightly sand both. Clean with alcohol again and burn dry. Then glue like you said. The water cooling could mess up the bond. Pat Reed

Any glue, hotmelt or otherwise, needs to "wet out" the surfaces to which it will stick. I'd avoid quenching hotmelt in water, in case the glue needs a little time to cold-flow onto the substrates. Might be good to pre-heat the inserts and shafts. Best bet for reliability is, I think, epoxy. As commented by others, it's permanent; no reversing.

I use a small camping propane bottle and a small torch attached, like you'd solder with, to heat my inserts and then apply Ferr-L-Tite. Been doing it that way for many years with no problems.

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