From: George D. Stout
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I don't pull back the string until I'm prepared to take the shot. Never thought about how long to hold since ten seconds can seem like five minutes.
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From: JustSomeDude
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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One reason I like staying in the low-mid 40's#
But just holding the draw isn't that hard. Holding the draw without making adjustments to continue holding the draw is harder. I hold for a few seconds anyway so 10 seconds isn't an issue. Any longer and it's hard to REALLY maintain form
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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My problem has always been the length of time they stay behind the tree. ;) I once had one go behind a tree and I never saw it again.
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From: stykman
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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At my age, if I had to hold long enough for a longbeard to step in to shooting range/lane, I'd have to shoot a 20lb kids bow. That's assuming the bird does what I expect, which, we all know, usually doesn't happen. A 20lber might kill it, but I wouldn't count on it. Had basically that actual scenario this year. Came to full draw a couple of times while he was behind a tree thinking he was going to keep coming. Guess what? Deer are no different.
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From: Sawtooth (Original)
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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If I hold any longer than a split second it will foul up my shot. Once I hit anchor the arrow must be gone. I shoot well that way. I've heard a few derogatory comments about the way I shoot but it doesn't bother me. I can outshoot most of the commentators.
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From: Huggins
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I tried that on a black bear once. It was walking slowly. He got to a pine tree and I drew, hoping to let go once he cleared the tee. Of course he stopped behind the tree, and just peaked his head around and looked at me. My camera was rolling so I could actually count the time that seemed like eternity. 19 seconds I held my 53 # longbow. When he finally looked away I let down.then of course he immediately started walking again so I drew again, and was able to put the arrow on target. After that I don't draw and hold.
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From: Scott_30415
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I am going to put a X3 on what Sawtooth said. I have been trying some different things lately(like putting sights on a recurve) only to find things getting messed up. I have found for me, I need to pick a spot and burn a hole in it with my eyes(aim small, miss small), draw till my middle finger hits a certain tooth on my lower jaw and release. The more time I have to think about it, the more things start getting screwy and arrows start spraying all over the place. I have learned lately to stick to the KISS acronym.
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From: Woods Walker
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I'm like George. I don't come to full draw until I actually shoot. I can hold at about 3/4 draw long enough for a deer to step out from behind a tree (I've never timed it). And I use the swing arm draw.
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From: pdk25
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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Well, I have killed a hog holding for 10 seconds, waiting for it to make it's way around a cedar in Texas. I practice holding up to 20 seconds then shooting with my bows up to around 80#, but the longer I hold, the harder it gets to relax my fingers for a clean release. Probably shoot better not holding longer than 2 seconds.
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From: cch
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I practice counting to 30 and still getting through my clicker. My record is a 50 count and hitting in the kill of a 3-D deer at 30 yards.
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From: David McLendon
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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With my 53# Shrew CH a long time, with my 67# Tall Tines recurve probably about 10 seconds. I've shot turkeys out of a blind before, both pop up and constructed from natural materials, but my Classic Hunter is the bow that I used to kill my first bird without a blind. There was an extended hold.
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From: Babbling Bob
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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Probably could sing three verses of amazing grace with one of my old target bows, which is 25lb at 28. Might not be able to sing one with my others. At some point, the eyes and brain sort of drift apart. Interesting wheelie bow sort of question.
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From: ga bowhunter
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I was always a snap shooter with good success but just no confidence past 20 yds so I started trying some gap shooting while holding for several seconds and my accuracy improved ,when I only snap shot I would put 4 out of 5 in the kill zone and would have one flyer unacceptable now i'm 5 out of 5 at 25 yds gap shooting while holding has improved my accuracy in every area but came at a cost i'm down to mid forties in draw weight
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From: Frisky
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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Just like snap shooting can be advantageous in a hunting situation, being able to hold at full draw, waiting for game to step into position for a shot, can be the difference between filling a tag or eating tag soup. My inability to hold at full draw has cost me at least two deer over the last decade. That's why I dropped down to 45 pounds.
Joe
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From: dean
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I had a deer take a step on me with a tree blocking the shot. I held for a very long time. I was down to my wrist strap at anchor until the deer took a step and allowed a good double lung hit. Fingers were completely numb and my neck hurt. I do not know how long it was, too long. From over 50 years of deer hunting, that was the one and only time that was required and it happened because I was too slow on the draw to begin with. It was with a 79 pound bow.
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From: fdp
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I can hold for a while as was said, I've never times it. But I don't use the swing draw unless it's required, so I use the Harry Elburg, and others method.
I riase the bow to shooting position and begin the draw (really more just tightening the string) Raising the bow in my experience is what spooks animals. Not the in line movement of coming to anchor.
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From: Jim Casto Jr
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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"I'm working on best of both worlds. Draw anchor and shoot, or hold if I have to. More flexibility means better chance of success"
I agree. Pre-aiming and snap shooting (all the time) has caused more people to get target panic and lose control of their shot than anything else I know of.
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From: Mpdh
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I would rather let down if the shot doesn't present itself. If an animal is behind cover and doesn't see you draw, it's not going to see you let down either. When you see it start to move you can draw again. I know that when I try to hold at full draw, my form starts to break down. This can lead to bad hits and misses, at least that's my experience. MP
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From: Newhunter
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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It depends on the level of adrenalin, bow wt, TP phobia and the size of the trophy. One time I was holding full draw for so long i got a hemorrhoid problem after and that was on a 3D figure
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From: Flash
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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Depends on draw weight. Just about finished last year's pigs and deer is long gone. Went bowfishing last weekend and had a blast shooting drum and sheep head. How have you guys been?
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From: David McLendon
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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It pays to be versatile in how you can draw and shoot accurately, it also pays to know your limitations, and you'll not find or expand upon them doing the same thing all the time.
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From: ga bowhunter
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Date: 17-Jun-17 |
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I can say this for sure holding and gapping has really helped my form I am no longer intimidated by a 30 yd shot just hold until everythings lined up and letter go before I had a real problem with left or right flyers drove me crazy but I wasn't giving the shot enough time I can still shoot fast and accurate but now I hit anchor consistently even when snap shooting
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From: Bowlim
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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You can prove it to yourself. Mount a laser and a sight to your bow (just use some tape, a pin, and a dollar store laser. Come to full draw and verify that you're adjusted so that the pin and laser are coincident, and your shot goes into the center of your target (your arrow, laser, and pin are all centered) (or use an aiming spot and bull that are in two different locations, so that your arrow and laser, will be center of target, even if you are holding elsewhere. Video your full draw sequence on target so that you can see how long it takes you to get on the bull and how long you can stay there. If your video has you center of target longer than it takes for you to execute your shot sequence, then you are OK.
In this case, say you want 25 seconds at full draw, then just check that time against your video. People are in huge denial about how long they can hold center of target. You can't cheat this system. It works even better if your prep to measure how long your shot sequence takes is not measured while you know the laser thing is going to happen, If you are coaching, keep the victims in the dark until you spring the laser test on them.
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From: Frisky
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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The other night, I had a terrible time holding for 3 seconds. That's what happens when you start snap shooting. It's a hard habit to break. It took a few minutes before i could consistently do it.
Joe
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From: Wild Bill
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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"it also pays to know your limitations" - And therefore everyone is different.
I hold at anchor sometimes longer than ten seconds, and that includes 3D targets, which are not moving. In my sequence of shooting, I draw, anchor and then aim(gap, including form). If it isn't right, I may have to let down and restart the sequence. Confidence in, and commitment to the aim and form, are essential to a proper release. I shoot a 55# bow. Rushing the shot has cost me too many points. Push the bow and pull through the release is a helpful thought I run through my mind while shooting.
I have had shots where I feel confident to return to full draw after creeping down a bit, a form break down, but it has to be a clear decision and commitment in my mind. Most of those are good shots, but not always.
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From: Crossed Arrows
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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Gee, maybe there's a business opportunity here to develop a bow with some kind of pulley system that would allow you to hold at full draw longer without straining. D'ya think?
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From: lawdy
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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I never hold. If I do, my brain starts to screw things up.
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From: Tom McCool
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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My hold is normally between 1 and 6ish seconds. I don't release until all is good. Thats why the hold time varies. I can hold a little longer in hunting situations with adrenaline. I shoot lighter bows than my max.weight.
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From: camodave
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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If I need to hold and wait I will take my compound.
DDave
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From: Woods Walker
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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How do you know that ahead of time?
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From: Sawtooth (Original)
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Date: 18-Jun-17 |
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I think this thread exemplifies what I've said all along..... there are target archers, and there are hunters. Now target archers may also hunt, and vice versa, but in the end we are basically one or the other. Target archers generally tend to hold at full draw longer than a hunting archer and tend to be a little more accurate because of it. Target archers are way more accurate than I am at longer distances, maybe even closer ones! Now, I'm not saying that target boys can't hunt effectively, and I'm not saying that hunters aren't accurate. I'm not a target shooter. As far as I'm concerned, I don't care if I can hit a bottle top at 30 yards, or a ten-ring at fifty yards. All I care about is weather I can drill what I'm shooting at somewhere around twenty yards or less, because that's where I want my shots at animals to be. I'm a hunter. I have a red light, and a green one. When the green light comes on in my head I draw and get the arrow away quickly. If the red light never goes off... well, I just watch that animal walk off. That's what I've been doing for the last 18 years or so and it's worked great so far.
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From: standswithbow
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Date: 22-Jun-17 |
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Like Sawtooth, I touch anchor, and it's gone. I've shot that way forever. I do not short draw. Holding is too hard on my ligaments, and feel more comfortable just letting go, and for me, much more fun. Oh yes, I do have control of the shot.
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From: dean
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Date: 22-Jun-17 |
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Flinching and shooting quick are not the same thing. It is possible to maintain good form and still have a nearly instant release. I refer to my anchor as a momentary tightening, even thought the draw to release looks to be pretty much one continuous motion, the tightening at anchor is still there. On the super long hold that I posted, I reapplied my full draw to anchor with the near instant release. when folks point out my shot tempo, I always say, "If I am on target when I reach anchor, I won't be anymore on target 4 seconds later." No matter what a static shooters thinks, it is not that hard to get on target as anchor is reached be ready for an immediate release. There are two completely different philosophies and it seems that the most stubborn are the long holders that do not try to aim until well after anchor is reached. Everyone's motor runs at a different rpm, I won't criticize the long holders, but I do not take their criticisms seriously either. I do pretty well shooting at the Hill/Schulz tempo.
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