I build the Bingham recurve bow form 58"-60" one piece, it says to add (glue) reverse tapers to the bottom portion of the form under fimika. Is this a necessary step? With the airhose pushing everything down. The tapered lams inside the limbs aren't that thick at the riser. JF, Kennym any Bowyers??

Necessary, no, but I'll just say, I think it's a really good idea. I've made a bunch of those recurves, a real good design btw, and the riser block is conveniently flat on its belly side. BUT the lams that reside on the belly side of that riser block are tapered, so in order for the press to be precisely and equally 'conveniently flat', (in our best interest) reverse tapers need to be glued to it... under the formica.

I guess in reality, it depends on how, and with how much effort and determination, you intend to spend on your press construction... and riser fadeouts.

Think. Then act.

When I built my Binghams form in 2009 I glued down 002/inch tapers then 030 black glass on top. I followed the instructions that came from Binghams.. no problems, Since the belly side of the riser is flat I would use the tapers.

O. K. Thanks for the input. I'll be making reverse tapered lams.

O. K. Thanks for the input. I'll be making reverse tapered lams.

Sorry for the double post and pics.

No problem. Good job on the press. It looks well made. That brings back memories. I no longer have that press, but have some bows from it.

Jeff, how were the bows? That looks like ALOT of riser..

It does... and to a large degree, whether or not it IS a lot of riser depends on how you shape it when it comes out of the press. Much will be removed, and much of its behavior and balance will be altered before a string is introduced. That design is a good one. It's a tank, versatile. The basic blank can make a good, relatively light mass weight, well balanced one piece recurve. I've used that framework to make efficient bows from the mid 40's of draw weight to the mid 80's, and any will shoot well, keep up with most other recurves with 8-11 gpp.

Yer making me want to take one for a rove now. Dang it. ;^)

Lol. Sorry Jeff. Just do it. Lol. I appreciate the information. I'm looking to make a 50#/55#er.

Like Jeff said, depends how you shape it..

Nice. What type of wood is that?

One of my early builds..I added belly side overlays.

first picture is Shedua..second is Kodiak Brown Dymalux from Pakistan.

Black limba riser.

Nice, Robert. I like your choices and style.

Nice, Robert. I like your choices and style.

I like the wood on the 2nd pic. Nice.

Im off to grind some tapered lams sometime this w/end. Thanks for the input.

what is the gap size y'all did from the bottom form to the top form? mine is 1 1/8 " do you think that will be enough?

1 1/8" sounds about right if memory serves. It depends on how wide your form is and how big the hose is, but regardless, in the end, the hose should be flat across the entire width of the lams. You could check that on a dry run.

Will do. Thanks Jeff.

Definitely do a dry run!

FWIW, any time My build requires a reverse lam I put it on top of the form and put the preferred form protection over it. That allows you to easily make taper adjustments? with subsequent builds. On an ASL for example, I use reverse tapers under the lay up to allow the back of the riser to be flat. The same form can accommodate any taper rate. You can also mill the riser to match the taper rate and not use the reversed tapers but it's much simpler to make a flat back.

Also, if all of the taper(s) are run up the belly side of the riser there is no reason for reverse taper adjustment.

Are you sure about that, Longcruise? Some bows are stacked in the press belly side up, others belly side down. This Bingham recurve is in the press belly side down, and the flat side of the riser is the belly side.

Then it's the reverse of what I said. If a reverse taper for form adjustment Is called for it would not be needed if the tapers on on top of the riser regardless if it's the face or the back.

Went back and looked at his pictures and see what you mean. My thinking is off because I always build back down.

Longhouse, I have built them that way also. This is the first form I've done this way.

I do em both ways too. Depends on the profile.

Jeff what kind of speed are you getting from your bows? And are they pretty quiet?

I never shot one through a chrono, but they seem pretty quick to me. I'm a selfbow guy though ;^)

Yes, they are quiet. I like how they feel at the shot too, which I can't say for most recurves.

Thanks Jeff.

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