Well, thanks to Wild Bill I have a very good supply of recycled 2016s - I guess it pays to know good-hearted people with longer arms than your own!

So now that I'm ready to fletch up a bunch of these, I'm wondering what is the best technique for getting all of the old glue off of the shafts and out of my way so that I can do a creditable job with the replacement fletchings...

And when it comes time to put the feathers back on there… Would you go with Bohning platinum, or good old superglue?

So far I have discovered that Duco is NOT a good bet!

You can buy specialty tools for stripping old fletching. I use a razor knife. That finish on the aluminum arrows is pretty tough. The scraping does them no harm. Then I wipe them with acetone or use wraps from Onestringer.

Find an old carpet cutting knife, one with a curved blade. Got one at a yardsale for $0.50 today. With a little sharpening, they are great to remove old vanes or fletching from alums. After the vane or fletch is removed, a little lite sanding using steel wool will remove the remaining glue residue. After those processes, a final go-over using 0000 steel wool will even out the shaft. Then, as Catsailor said, some acetone on a cotton ball (use gloves to protect your skin) to wipe the fletch area of the shaft. I don't use wraps...simply because of my preference. But for glue, I do use Saunder NPV.

"Recycling" alum arrow shafting has become a relaxing project/passtime for me, when all the other "to do list" projects are done. Nothing like making an old arrow fly again, all from your own elbow grease, patience, and efforts.....

As far as prepping guys use alot of stuff but eastons originalinstructions were to use hot water and ajax cleanser. It works very well and altho ive tried alchohol and other stuff ajax has always worked best.

Skip ALL of the labor mentioned above.

Get a 14" or longer, tube that will not melt using acetone. Stick all of your shafts, or however many fit, in it. Fill with acetone soak overnight.

Pull out clean shafts, or shaft that need a minor wipe down.

Then prep like new shafts for fletching.

I've done this since the 70's. No muss, no fuss.

A serrated blade steak knife works well.

I dip mine in a can of Zip-Strip for awhile...after shaving the feather to the quill. Then wipe em off with paper towels...all glue and quill residue comes right off and I don't scrape up the shaft.

Then I scrub with comet cleanser, rinse off, shake off excess water, and let them air dry.

Haven't lost a feather in over 35 years :^)

When I do alums. after I get all the glue off with a sharp knife I use a green scouring pad then wipe with a clean paper towel. Then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol (I use a Q tip.

Let dry and do not touch where you just cleaned. I use fletch platinum. I have been doing it this way for 35years or more no problems.

platinum or super glue gel.

Sounds good to me, fellas! I think I'm going to try something less immersive, since I just glued on new nocks..

Ajax cleanser works great for prepping aluminum. That is what it was designed for. Not generally sold around here any more. Alternative products don't work.

Be wary of acetone as it contains trace oil. That is why a lot of people follow up with alcohol.

I use a knife to remove the glue. Never cut into the XX75s.

I use Bohnigh FletchTite, if they still make it. Every time I look at taped feathers, they are coming off, but I guess some people know how to make that work.

Fletch tite plat sucks for aluminum. Use saunders fletching glue.

this takes a bit of time but is absolutely the best way Scrape off the old glue whipe with acetone then dip in thined clear bohning fletch lack. Alow to dry then use bohning fletchtite on feathers or vanes. The bond between the two is as good as it gets

GF -

Spend the money on a heavy handle Exacto knife and concave blades (#28).

Scrape old fletch and remaining glue lines until gone.

Scrub with Comet cleanser under running water.

Rinse and air dry.

Best glue I've found is Bob Smith Maxi-Cure.

Viper out.

well, I've got a canister of Barkeepers Friend under the sink and I just picked up a package of heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pads... I'll give those a shot.

Open shoot at the local club on Sunday morning, so I'll make sure I have at least a half-dozen good-to-go, even though these arrows are really spined for the Howatt Hunter; with big enough fletchings, they fly straight enough from the RER.... I don't know how accurate the spec draw weight is on the two, but the longbow feels a couple pounds lighter, and my draw-side shoulder is feeling a little jacked up lately, so I think that's what I'll be shooting.

Looks like I need to order some 1816s for the Viper, just to have a half-dozen matched arrows on hand at any given time… Stu's calculator says I'm only getting #45 out of the #50 AMO spec..

Last year I started using a potato peeler, after seeing it suggested on a youtube video. Works great for me.

I've been using Fletch-tite since I started years ago and it hasn't failed me yet. Scotch-Brite pads and a dry wipe afterwards work for me too.

old knife,Scotch- Brite,or steel wool,Comet or Ajax, alcohol all work fine. Super Glue in the bottle with a needle point works the easiest. I agree,Fletch Tite is the only thing I have used and had feathers come off. It was great until they changed the formula for EPA reasons. Good Luck >>>------> Ken

I'll second what Viper advised...

Utility knife with a curved blade to scrape off as much old feather and glue as possible. Then clean with acetone. I also use wraps so I don't go too crazy.

GF, You can probably fit them to your longbow by getting some 200 grain field points for them. That may be enough to soften the shaft to suit that RER.

Ive been shooting aluminums for 20 plus years and just use a pocketknife to scrape off the residual glue, careful not to cut into the finish on the shaft. Clean with Acetone, let dry, fletch with either Saunders MPV or Bohning Fletch Tape. For the last 5 years I've used nothing but Bohning Fletch Tape with a dab of Loctite super glue on each end of the feather with no complaints. I've shot thru deer, hay bales, etc and no problems with the tape.

Potato peeler,,scotch pad alcohol wipe,,,,then I spray a coat of "adhesion promoter" from a rattle can I get from advance auto it's used to paint plastic bumpers,,,it's the first coat before primer,l just do the fletch area it dries clear then I use fletch tite never a problem!,,,,,only wish more guys will try it this way?? Jeffw

Pocket knife, scotchbrite pad, Ajax and isopropyl alcohol.

I avoid acetone as it leaves a residue and it is toxic.

As for glue I have had no problems with Fletchtite Platinum.

I did buy a tube of Saunder NPV to try out, but that was because I found it on sale.

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