Alright i give up. No matter how i turn my fletching they are still tearing up my velcro rest. How do you guus turn your fletch in relation to the bow?

Could have something to do with the width of your arrow shelf, or your nock point may be too low. Or the leading edge of the feather quills may be sharp. Do you put a drop of glue on all leading ends of your feathers? My guess is a raised nock point and/or cock feather in should provide more clearance and reduce the problem.

use a leather rest? your wifes old purse, old workboot, shoes wallet, furniture, old belt, dog collar, tool pouch, surely some leather somewhere. cock feather out normally. sounds more like nocking point too low like orion said.

Be sure you put a touch of glue on the front end of the feather base. These can have a sharp edge. I sometimes use a razor blade and taper the end before adding a touch of glue.

Im going out on a limb here and making a bold claim that at 5/8" its not a knock height issue. Its wearing the very outside edge. Maybe a pic would help. Arrows flying darn good though. Hate to change anything. Like little missles arching into the 10 ring.

Maybe your arrows are too stiff out of your bow? Try a heavier point on them and see if that helps. When the tune is right the fletching shouldn't contact the shelf heavily.

side plate damage or shelf damage ? and is it more of one or both the same. what bow ? what draw weight ? what draw length ? what arrow size ? what size group do you have at target @ 15yrds. and is there any kick at release left or right ? three finger under , or split ? just curious

If my arrows all went in the 10 ring I would buy stock in feathers. Seriously, orientation should make no difference. You have another problem. I think we ruled out spine on another thread. Is that correct? Did you cut the feathers off one of the new arrows? This is the Warf bow right? It seemed like you ruled out nocking point also. Spine,nocking point,tiller,rest/side plate are the likely culprits. If the rest is just stuck on the side plate you may be past center shot,to the right. Measure the tiller. Then lets take a hard look at the center line of the rest. Good luck,you have a tough one. >>>-----> Ken

64" recurve, tillered 3 under, shoot 3 under, arrows fly like darts and slap together in a tennis ball sized group at 15 yards. Shelf wear on outside edge, side plate perfect. 41@28 draw 28. 3555 or 500 spine gold tips full length with 100 grain tips. Was using 125 but arrows were too weak. 5/8 knock height. Everything about the arrow flys perfect to my eye, and accuracy is top notch. Guess a little shelf wear is not soooo bad.

Try a tooth pick in the center of the shelf under the velcro. Thatll give the arrow a "peak" point of contact and save the velcro some wear.

I see I was totally confused. Wrong bow wrong thread. Wrong archer. Well the culprits are still the same but we have to rule them all out. I have seen one case where the shelf was so wide even a properly tuned arrow wanted to rub the outside edge. Two solutions. A rasp to the shelf or an elevated rest. He chose to raise the rest. Either way you can get your tune and accuracy back. Just take careful measurements first and duplicate them. Can you post a picture? Sorry for the confusion. Good luck >>>-----> Ken

Arrows are too stiff.

DDave

just woundering I know nothing on warf bows a carbon shaft but is it possible the warf riser are bow is cut past center to much? why I ask this is you are getting good arrow flight with 500s and 100gr tip. when 90% on here with this bow weight need 600s with more tip wt. like I said I don't know just a guess.

I think the arrows are too stiff also. It's hard to change your setup when arrow flight looks good, but your symptoms describe an arrow that is not clearing the bow. I shoot 30 in. 3555s out of a 55 @ 29 recurve, with 125 points.

MP

got a short lb that hits the shelf at the glue line of rest with carbons. woodies work fine. brush rest works with carbons on that bow...ron

Yea I used to shoot 50lb bows with 3555 and 125 and it made no sense that this 41lb bow needed a stiffer arrow but it does. Put a 125 grain tip in there and I can see them kick left out of the bow. KY_Hunter, I like your toothpick idea man. I am giving that a try for sure. I should probably get out a paper tuner and sacrafice a bare shaft just to make sure I am not missing anything.

Feathers don't tear up rests. Rests can tear up feathers. You have other issues and not the feathers. Revisit tuning with proper spine, and make sure your arrow are not porpoising. Arrows tear up rests...not feathers.

when you by Velcro is there two sides one soft and one more hook and loop would this make a difference? I don't know I never use it for rest. just thought I would throw it out there.

It's not your feathers. Learn to tune - www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.htmp click on "download printable version".

Bowmania

Only thing left is make sure the pointy end of the feathers face to the front as placed on the shaft..Lol

Up until recently I always used a brush rest. That 1/4 in. above a flat shelf makes a world of difference for tuning arrows. BUT life changes and I have set up a recurve for off the shelf. It has a radius shelf but I still put part of a flat toothpick under the rest material. I have a LB setup the same way. Another solution I "found" is the feather rest. Really never considered using one until I got my 62 Kodiak reproduction and wanted to be a little period correct. It really works, made my setup easy.

As George and others have said you have a spine problem or even a nockset height problems. Try a different nock height or some different point weights to see if it helps. Trying other fixes will only put a bandaid on it.

Improperly spined arrow and nock height.

Arrow tuning is my take but as George says it would be hard to believe feathers are doing the damage.You could try various spines and see it that fixes your problem.Other than that I have no idea. OSR

1) evaluate at 30 yds...15 is useless.. give the arrows a chance to do their worst.

2) spine. Therefore try a heavier point or bronze insert.

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