Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


selecting wood shafts by pound range ?

Messages posted to thread:
jk 22-Mar-17
fdp 22-Mar-17
fdp 22-Mar-17
Dkincaid 22-Mar-17
bigdog21 22-Mar-17
bigdog21 22-Mar-17
jk 22-Mar-17
aromakr 22-Mar-17
George D. Stout 22-Mar-17
Scooby-doo 22-Mar-17
bigdog21 22-Mar-17
Deno 22-Mar-17
Deno 22-Mar-17
Dkincaid 22-Mar-17
Deno 22-Mar-17
Bowlim 22-Mar-17
jk 22-Mar-17
Bob Rowlands 23-Mar-17
RymanCat 23-Mar-17
Kelly 23-Mar-17
jjs 23-Mar-17
jk 23-Mar-17
Scooby-doo 23-Mar-17
fdp 23-Mar-17
Harleywriter 24-Mar-17
From: jk
Date: 22-Mar-17




HELP

It's been 10+ years since I built a wood arrow..I knew zip about spine back then, just ordered by bow weight and shaft mass weight (mostly from Kelly).

So, shooting a 60# ASL longbow mostly, I just ordered 55-60+ ...cut em to convenient length and lived carelessly with the results.

I need/want to build some wood arrows (spruce probably).

TODAY I halfass know too much technical BS but I don't know how to order spruce shafts any better than I did back before my puberty (before I was 65).

HOW does a person select wood shafts by some consistent performance characteristic? Deflection? Same as with carbon ? Does wood spine relate some way to 45-50, 55-60 ?...seems unlikely !

From: fdp
Date: 22-Mar-17




The weight range that you mention is a product of the deflection number. It is the deflection divided by 26. So, you have to know one to get the other.

I make and or buy all my wooden shafts based on deflection, but, using the formula above, I can arrive at the draw weight range as well.

From: fdp
Date: 22-Mar-17




Better example. .500 deflection shaft. 26 divided by .500 = 52lbs.

From: Dkincaid
Date: 22-Mar-17




Just curious but why spruce?

From: bigdog21
Date: 22-Mar-17

bigdog21's embedded Photo



From: bigdog21
Date: 22-Mar-17

bigdog21's embedded Photo



From: jk
Date: 22-Mar-17




fdp...thanks!

David, I'd use chundoo rather than spruce but I want to buy from Ted Fry at Raptor who doesn't offer chundoo anymore. Ted says spruce is tougher.

I'm a better shot than I uster be and the chundoos of yesteryear survived a lot longer than my cedars.

From: aromakr Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 22-Mar-17




jk:

The spine formula, deflection divided into 26= pounds of bow weight for a 28" arrow, for a bow cut 1/8" less than center and vise/versa a 60# spine divided into 26 will equal deflection.

Example. a Deflection of .465 divided into 26 = 55.9# or 55.9# divided into 26 = .465 deflection.

If your arrow is less than 28" long it will stiffen 5# for every inch less than 28 and will weaken 5# for every inch longer than 28".

Not hard!

Bob

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 22-Mar-17




Nothing wrong with spruce. I use it now, and I used it twenty couple years ago. It is very strong for it's light mass weight.

From: Scooby-doo
Date: 22-Mar-17




Just google Arrows by Kelly Spine Chart, none better and it gives a little explanation as to the reason for the spines chosen. Those charts above do not compare to Kelly's. Shawn

From: bigdog21
Date: 22-Mar-17




if you are purchasing from Raptor. Ted will be able to tell you what you need.

From: Deno
Date: 22-Mar-17




X2 Kelly

Deno

From: Deno
Date: 22-Mar-17




http://www.arrowskp.com

From: Dkincaid
Date: 22-Mar-17




I prefer Douglas fir nothing wrong with spruce I just couldn't find any that was as high of quality as surewood shafts. Old cedars are my favorite but the new stuff I'm getting is not that good imo.

From: Deno
Date: 22-Mar-17




Surewood DF !!

Deno

From: Bowlim
Date: 22-Mar-17




Spruce is the strongest for it's weight of all the NA softwoods. D-Fir is the strongest for it's size. Spruce is also very split resistant, much better than D-Fir, or cedar. You can find it in very good quality, but never at a price I could accept for arrows. There is a reason why it is best for aircraft and musical instruments.

That is at least what industry says. There are some oddball softwoods out there that people think are hardwoods (yew is a softwood and balsa is a hardwood), and some others you can't get in decent volume/quality.

From: jk
Date: 22-Mar-17




Thanks guys for the remaining Kelly info..

http://www.arrowskp.com

Not sure it's "better" than fdp's logic but it does offer another perspective and I'd certainly go with Kelly over all.

John Kelly :-)

From: Bob Rowlands
Date: 23-Mar-17




Off topic. The spruce I'm familiar with splits like a MF.

From: RymanCat
Date: 23-Mar-17




To get the best for the bow you really can't just go by the scales. If you have a selection of spines that's best to shoot to see what bow likes better with woodies keep this i n mind.

Bow could be 50 weight but like 60-65s better too. Or a 40 weight and like 50-55's shoot heavier arrows better maybe too.

I try out various spines to see them fly and choose for the bow.

From: Kelly
Date: 23-Mar-17




JK, the same spine weights you got from me in Chundoo that worked would be the same for Sitka Spruce or POC or DF.

From: jjs
Date: 23-Mar-17




Here we go again- spine stay in the 5# group (50-54),not 50-55# is 6# group and you will get flyers; this is one pet peeve that I have with shafts sellers.

From: jk
Date: 23-Mar-17




would be helpful if posts were well intended and coherent

From: Scooby-doo
Date: 23-Mar-17




That is why Kelly was and is so helpful, he spined in true 5# groups. I still have some chundoo from him I got in 03 or so and they are as straight as the day I got them. 1/2 dozen of 60-64# spine and weigh with 10 grains of each other. Shawn

From: fdp
Date: 23-Mar-17




jk, you're dealing with 2 excellent arrowsmiths, Bob Burton, and Kelly Peterson. And you're buting arrows from a 3rd, Ted Fry. If you go with what they suggest, you will be golden.

From: Harleywriter
Date: 24-Mar-17




man, this is getting complicated for an Old brain>





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