Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Hickory stave help!

Messages posted to thread:
TBOZ 11-Feb-17
TBOZ 11-Feb-17
fdp 11-Feb-17
woodshavins 11-Feb-17
unhinged 11-Feb-17
fdp 11-Feb-17
TBOZ 11-Feb-17
unhinged 11-Feb-17
George Tsoukalas 11-Feb-17
TBOZ 11-Feb-17
fdp 11-Feb-17
unhinged 12-Feb-17
George Tsoukalas 12-Feb-17
TBOZ 12-Feb-17
fdp 12-Feb-17
TBOZ 12-Feb-17
TBOZ 12-Feb-17
fdp 12-Feb-17
woodshavins 12-Feb-17
TBOZ 12-Feb-17
hunterbob 12-Feb-17
woodshavins 12-Feb-17
Tomas 13-Feb-17
Eric Krewson 13-Feb-17
TBOZ 17-Feb-17
TBOZ 17-Feb-17
TBOZ 17-Feb-17
RonG 20-Feb-17
TBOZ 20-Feb-17
woodshavins 20-Feb-17
TBOZ 20-Feb-17
TBOZ 20-Feb-17
woodshavins 21-Feb-17
woodshavins 21-Feb-17
TBOZ 23-Feb-17
TBOZ 23-Feb-17
From: TBOZ
Date: 11-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



So I cut a young shagbark hickory tree yesterday, glued the ends and split into 4 staves today. I've started debarking the staves and To be quite honest I don't know if I'm removing too much or not enough wood as I'm debarking it. I've been peeling all the rough outer layer off and then using a sharp knife at a 90 degree angle to remove the brown layer exposing white wood. Does this look about right??

From: TBOZ
Date: 11-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



From: fdp
Date: 11-Feb-17




Yes.

From: woodshavins
Date: 11-Feb-17




That's exactly right. You can leave little bits of the brown cambium for looks if you like. It can be tough to get all of it without violating your back ring, but it's hard to damage a hickory back enough to cause a problem. You're doing well!

From: unhinged
Date: 11-Feb-17




Look real good! Are you going to de-crown your staves?

From: fdp
Date: 11-Feb-17




The cambium spits actually look really cool after you put finish on the back in my opinion. Gives it a "mottled" look.

From: TBOZ
Date: 11-Feb-17




Thanks guys! Just wanted to make sure I was doing it right! What is decrowning?

From: unhinged
Date: 11-Feb-17




Making the back flat, following parallel growth rings.

From: George Tsoukalas
Date: 11-Feb-17




Decrowning, done right, is not easy. Just leave it a few inches longer and you won't have to decrown.

What is your draw length?

There are buildalongs on my site.

http://traditionalarchery101.com

Jawge

From: TBOZ
Date: 11-Feb-17




my draw length is 27"

From: fdp
Date: 11-Feb-17




You don't need to decrown that stave at all. Just start working the belly and make a bow.

From: unhinged
Date: 12-Feb-17




I should have asked what style of Bow you are planning to make? If you are making a ELB, you certainly would not need to de-crown. On the other hand if you are making a wide limbed Flat Bow, it looks like that stave has enough convexity on the back, you might end up with a percentage of that heavy Hickory that won't be doing much beyond taking a set. Not trying to cause trouble for you, just more work!

From: George Tsoukalas
Date: 12-Feb-17




Leave it 68" and the heavy crown will off set, at least that is what I do. Jawge

From: TBOZ
Date: 12-Feb-17




I appreciate all the good advice gentlemen, if this bow blows up it won't be for lack of good mentors! Lol

From: fdp
Date: 12-Feb-17




Tye, Hickory is one of the most forgiving, mistake covering woods you could have chosen. And makes a dang fine bow as well.

From: TBOZ
Date: 12-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



I'm glad to hear hickory is forgiving! Lol so after so blood sweat and tears I got a 70" stave completely debarked, cut to length and reglued the ends. The stave is pretty darn straight with a decent amount of natural backset. Whadda you guys think?

From: TBOZ
Date: 12-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



From: fdp
Date: 12-Feb-17




That's fine. Make a bow.

From: woodshavins
Date: 12-Feb-17




That is one CLEAN piece of hickory. Good one to learn on. Were you gonna force dry it, or let it season naturally?

From: TBOZ
Date: 12-Feb-17




I was gonna rough the bow out in the next 2-3 days and then let it sit for a month or so. Any recommendations on force drying vs season naturally? How would one go about force drying it?

From: hunterbob
Date: 12-Feb-17




Yep I would work it down and heat treat it as you put some reflex into it and maybe even flip the tips a bit. I like harvesting my wood in the early spring when the bark just pops off .

From: woodshavins
Date: 12-Feb-17




Tim Baker has written extensively on quick drying. He gets into extreme detail regarding controlling near exact relative humidity and such. I have found that a simple warming box heated with light bulbs to around 90-100 degrees with a small fan inside is simple but effective. Be sure to lash or clamp your reduced blank so that it doesn't warp. Even when reduced, the thicker handle section can check if done too fast. You may need to drop temp slightly. Box should have vents that can be opened or closed. Open vents while wood is still very wet and close after it dries a bit, otherwise relative humidity will rise very high in the box. Typically most white woods can be dried in this manner in as short as 5 days, however, 10-15 is much more reasonable and safe. Do an internet search for "Tim Baker rapid drying". Keep us posted!

From: Tomas
Date: 13-Feb-17

Tomas's embedded Photo



From: Eric Krewson
Date: 13-Feb-17




You need to seal the back of your stave, just in case, especially if you are going to force dry it.

From: TBOZ
Date: 17-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



From: TBOZ
Date: 17-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



From: TBOZ
Date: 17-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



Here is a little update!

From: RonG
Date: 20-Feb-17




Good luck on that one TYE.

From: TBOZ
Date: 20-Feb-17




Is it a "good luck, cause you're gonna need it" kind of stave? lol

From: woodshavins
Date: 20-Feb-17




Lookin good. Did you force dry it, or is it still pretty wet? What dimensions are you working with?

From: TBOZ
Date: 20-Feb-17




66 inches long, 2 inch wide limbs for 2/3rds the length of the limb and then tapering to 1/2" at the tips. The limps are still currently about 1" thick right now and I have not force dried it. Just letting it dry naturally at this point, but thinking about thinning the limbs out some more as it dries.

From: TBOZ
Date: 20-Feb-17




66 inches long, 2 inch wide limbs for 2/3rds the length of the limb and then tapering to 1/2" at the tips. The limps are still currently about 1" thick right now and I have not force dried it. Just letting it dry naturally at this point, but thinking about thinning the limbs out some more as it dries.

From: woodshavins
Date: 21-Feb-17




Good design. I like your plan. Get it to where it just starts to bend, then dry it. Won't take more than a couple days at that thickness. You can simply hang it in a stovepipe or similar with a light bulb underneath. Flip the bow once halfway through. Or do the beatbox thing.

From: woodshavins
Date: 21-Feb-17




Good design. I like your plan. Get it to where it just starts to bend, then dry it. Won't take more than a couple days at that thickness. You can simply hang it in a stovepipe or similar with a light bulb underneath. Flip the bow once halfway through. Or do the beatbox thing.

From: TBOZ
Date: 23-Feb-17

TBOZ's embedded Photo



From: TBOZ
Date: 23-Feb-17




Trimmed it down a bit more today





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