From: unhinged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 21-Jan-17 |
|
I am preparing to build a glass backed longbow, and was wondering if anybody tapers the glass to match the taper of the stack. It seems you would end up with a disproportionate amount of heavy material at the tips, if it is left full thickness
|
|
From: Longcruise
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 21-Jan-17 |
|
Not sure about degrees of taper, but I think Fred Anderson did it.
|
|
From: bowyer45
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 22-Jan-17 |
|
For a given taper it would be twice as effective as tapering the wood, plus the advantage of lightening the outer limb as glass is heavier than wood. If you want max performance it is well worth the effort. imo.
|
|
From: unhinged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 22-Jan-17 |
|
bowyer45, have you tried this?
|
|
From: fdp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 22-Jan-17 |
|
Fred Anderson, Mike Fedora, Jack Howard, lots of folks have done that over the years. Some the full length, some just in the outer 1/3.
It's basically done to keep the glass/wood ratio conistent in the working limb, or to make the recurve behave a particular way.
|
|
From: fdp
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 22-Jan-17 |
|
One reason that you don't end up with a disproportionate amount of weight at the limb tip is because the limb tips are considerably narrowed. Bow limbs lose physical weight much quicker wen reduced in width, then when reduced in thickness.
Each bowyer has to decide if it is something that is worth the investment of time for them.
|
|
If you have already registered, please sign in now
For new registrations Click Here
|
|
|