From left to right. Local Osage, Curly Missouri walnut,maple,bamboo flooring, aka actionboo and Missouri Walnut. JF

Let it rip Jeff......

Most all domestic to.

Thanks Jeff.

Excellent. Adding to favs.

Looking forward to it, thanks.

It's gonna be 66" NtN 55# at 28" flat glass back longbow, with a 16" riser. This all started from a Bingham Projects design form, that you as given to me from one of the doctors my wife worked for. The form and hot box came from out east somewhere. This started it all. This bow will be #38. At least my wife knows where I can be found, most of the time ;) JF

???? Diggin' in!

Aw man, my popcorn and beer didn't work :( You'll just have to trust me,,lol!

I do need to hunt this weekend, since this is the last weekend I'll be able to hunt. Season ends the 10th of January. I will be taking Maqokita Revenge bow with me. So just a small delay in really rolling a long with this. So stay tuned :) JF

Cool. I'll follow along.

Looking forward to this. Thanks.

Popcorn and beer at my house...let the buildup begin....jeepman

Waiting patiently.....adding to favorites. John

I wish you lived closer I would be over there watching. :-)

Jeff, get on with it will ya. KIDDING!! :-D Hope your hunt goes as successful as mine did tonight.

-Bones

Following along with the rest....good hunting Deno

Iam here can't wait thanks for doing this it gives a lot of us a chance to see how things work

Can't wait! That curly walnut looks real nice! Be pretty in a knife! LOL

Take your time, I would hunt too.

Looks like it should be nice.

Going to be fun. That osage is awesome.

Looking forward to seeing you make magic. Good luck hunting. -3° here this morning.

Thank you been waiting!

Actually, I'm an osage nut, but I'm more impressed with that piece of maple than anything else. It looks like a real good piece.

Not many Deer up at my father-in-law place. So I'll just let them be. For now. Back to the buildalong. JF

I want two 1/2" pieces of the curly walnut. 2" tall 17" long. One 3/8" piece of Osage, for weight and center strength. Two strips of maple 1/16" for accents. JF

I'll take them down to exact size on my edge grinder. JF

The thin maple I run them through the edge grinder on a parallel sled, easier to control,when so thin. I can do .030 veneers with this setup too. JF

Now I have my width of 1.5" with everything together. The walnut pieces are the same thickness as well as the maple, to each other. I was told the Walnut can split out through the wild grain. That's why I choose to use it just on the outside. Osage and maple will make for a great center core.

The Osage will not stay Gold forever. It'll turn a light Golden brown, in time. I'll glue this up tomorrow night. This will not be all. There will be more to the riser, coming later. JF

Looks great!

Hope I dont miss any of this. This is what I needed to see,since the thought of building a bow is intimidating.

Can't wait to see the rest.

Crow, the riser doesn't have to be complicated and fancy. It can be simple as just one beautiful piece of wood. But I have visions :) JF

Jeff your visions are.. well.. extra visionary to say the least. That is a good looking assembly. Not to side track the build a long, but when are you putting together a recurve form. ;-)

-Bones

Allrighty, back at it. I put a couple spacers under the walnut,to let the Osage and maple stick out alittle on both sides. Since I don't have to much excess of walnut in height. JF

I do this and clamp to get the walnut even. JF

Instead of fighting the laminations sliding around, during glue up. I drill a 1/8" hole on each end. Where it won't be in the final riser. JF

This is so I can put a 10D finish nail through the pieces, to line up during glue up. JF

I mixed 2oz of smooth-on epoxy. Butter both mateing surfaces and stack, on to the next,and so on until all are stacked. JF

Set in vise and clamps, everthing wrapped in plastic,to keep from sticking. Snug all clamps. Don't tighten to much, just snug. Pull nails after tightening. Or they will be glued in to stay :) Let dry overnight. JF

This is so cool!

I put some small laminate leftovers under my clamps. To spread out the clamp pressure and so I don't chip the burl walnut. JF

Don't forget to pull the alignment pins :) Now dry. JF

Next night it dry. Clean up the excess glue, on the edge grinder. The run it through against the fence, untill it's flush with the Walnut. JF

All squared up. JF

Since burl walnut could be prone to cracking. That's the reason I put a center of some other woods in it. Also I'm gonna foot the riser,it's what I call it. Putting a better strong wood on the back of the riser. JF

About 3/16" of Osage as a stronger footing or power lam, what ever it's called. This will give it a stronger fadeout and give it the illusion of a thicker center core. I won't have to worry about the burl walnut breaking at the fade-outs. JF

Mix an once of smooth-on epoxy and glue and clamp, overnight. JF

This riser is footed. More coming tomorrow. JF

Great pictures and explanations JF. Thanks.

This bow is gonna be a beauty. I can tell you first hand that this curly walnut is stunning. Jeff, would you mind licking a piece of it and showing a pic to give the followers a hint of it finished beauty? That's the first thing I did with the stuff you sent me! Okay, you can wet it however you want. LOL

Bodork :) lol I'll try at least my tongue won't Stick, like the flag pole did ;) lol JF

Lookin good Jeff. Fun watching one come together.

-Bones

Definitely a "favorites" thread, thanks Jeff!

He said lick a piece. Lol Looks great Jeff!

Looking good.

OK, while the riser stack is curing. I'll get started on the limb laminations. Missouri Walnut and Iowa Osage will be the limbs. I squared up the walnut,to a thickness of 1.5" I did this by running it through my edge grinder. JF

Nice and straight. Ready to rip some laminations. JF

I want the limbs to be vertical grain, this makes it closer to actionwood or actionboo. Should help control twist and give greater strength. I added a adjustable bearing to a feather board. I adjust the feather board left towards the blade for thinner laminations. JF

First cut .155 I need to move it left a little. JF

.128 that's better. Now all I have to do is keep move the fence to the right after each cut. JF

Last cut, I got lucky and ended up with all the same size or dang close. JF

11 laminations from that peice, I only need 4 of the best ones. There all good but I can pick what I want. JF

Great build along. The anti squirm nails went off like a strobe in my brain.:). Have only done one lammed riser and it ended well, but wish I'd known about the nails.

Keep up the good work.

Now that all the laminations have been cut. Next it's over to the edge grinder -the lamination grinder. I'll be using a parallel sled first to true them to .120 After the have been tried, the Walnut lams will get ground on a .002 taper sled. JF

Making grinder dust with 36grit. JF

All the laminations are ground. I'll have a stack thickness at the fade- outs of .468 for a 55# Bow,with a 16" riser. Narrow,thick limbs on a 66" flat longbow. Jf

Thank you for doing this, alot of work on your part taking and posting all the picturtes.

All that beautiful gold dust. Must be doing a little grinding on that osage. :-) What do you do with all the sawdust?

-Bones

Longcruise, I had to chuck up the nail in the drill press and polish it with some 80 grit on a board so it fit the 1/8" hole easier. JF

Looking great.

When do I pick it up! Lol

When do I pick it up! Lol

More cool stuff coming after dinner, stay tuned :) JF

Dan, I'm using a course cut wet lumber blade made by Diablo. Home depot has them. Works great and I've cut a lot with it even fiber glass. A local guy hal9000 'Tom Morrel' told me about it. I've a spare but haven't felt the need to change yet. On your table saw make sure your fence is slightly wider on the exit end, 1/32-1/16" JF

Cleaning off the excess glue on the sides. Just a little off the sides. JF

Now I'm taking the tape off the bottom and a little bit of glue and wood. JF

Running everything through the edge grinder, keeps it all square. JF

After all the glue is cleaned off, it time to lay out the belly ramps. I use a pattern that I have made and altered over time, until I got what I want. JF

Here I will finally use the bandsaw. Cutting next to the line. I will fine tune the belly ramps on the edge grinder. JF

No pattern now it's all looks and feel to get the ramps smooth and even. I mark on the back where the fade-outs stop. 16- 1/2" riser. 8 1/2" on the top to make it slightly weaker and 8" on the bottom ramp to make it slightly stronger limb. A builder that used to be in Michigan is where I got the idea from. But he uses a 15 1/2" riser. JF

Using a squared up block as a backup support makes it easier to hold on to and support the fine fade tips from flexing. I made the block square by running it through against the fence, earlier and I just keep using it. JF

I've reached my marks on both ends. JF

I run my finger up and down the ramps feeling for any bumps or dips. When grinding the ramps,for me it's all feel,looks and sound to get them where I want them. Must be a bodyman thing :) JF

Nice long gentle tapers on the fade-outs. This is so there is no bumbs, blending to the limbs. The ends of the fade-outs will take a slight bend when bow is strung. Nice even transition. JF

Just getting a feel for what I've done so far. Wait till you see the tru-oil picture. I put a little bit on the side to see the wood grain pop :) JF

All the lines are nice and square. I must have everything adjusted right ;) JF

Bodork, you had to mention about screw ups. I had originally ground my stack to .468 Duh that was without glass. I need .368 without glass plus two .050 glass makes .468 So I had to re grind my parallels to get it right. Double check everything :) JF

This, burl or curly Walnut, what ever you want to call it, is gonna really pop when it get a finish on it. WOW. JF

Looks like a kit bow ready to add glass and ship ;) lol. JF

This is better than anything on TV.

Very nice work.

Thanks for the thread.

I can only dream....

Dang this is a nice series. Thanks so much!

Way to go Jeff. More...Lance.

Sam was why he had to regrind stack. lol Gonna be another beautiful bow Jeff. I love your buildalongs. You show so much detail and explain everything so well. Those bodyshop hands can tell so much more on just feel than a lazer measuring device. sig9

Thanks for this buildalong.I think most people can understand the cost of a bow after seeing the work that goes into one.

Looking good! Thanks for taking the time

Looking good JF! Tru oil pic is sweet!

Can't wait to see the rest. Thanks

Nice! Can't wait to see more.

Very nice!

Very nice , thankyou for doing the build along.

Nice build along Jeff! Good point to run your fingers up and down the ramps to feel for bumps and dips. I put my thumb along the belly and forefinger goes up the ramp. You can feel bumps with your eyes closed. I also press all the pieces together at the end of the fades like you to make sure the fade disappears into the limb lams without any gaps.

Let's see where was I. JF

Oh yeah, I remember I got my stack reground and mark the thick ends of tapers that go towards the grip. I've messed up once and put a .001 taper in the wrong way. .002 is easier to see the difference. JF

Two of the Walnut tapers will get a beveled and butt glued, clamped to a STRAIGHT EDGE. I use gorilla gel super glue. JF

I use 36grit and try to keep it flat, on the lamination only,SA much as I can. To make the jig last. I've had it quite a while. JF

Place them on the STRAIGHT EDGE and check to see how the butt up. If needed I can adjust them in the jig to change. But I've done a lot on this jig and have it marked where they need to be clamped, to sand. JF

Hmm, always cut the red wire lol:)

Looks good, glue it. JF

Put a little on both ends.

I put plastic around it and a white plastic block on top and clamp. For got that picture, oops. JF

Jeff, gotta be a craftsman thing to feel the surface & edges. I do the same thing when running a molding detail in stone. Thanks for the GREAT build a long. John

Bevel sand and glue all the laminations that need to be full length. JF

After all 3 laminations are dry. I'll sand the joint with 36grit stick it sandpaper, same I used to bevel them. JF

Allrighty who Left the gate open ;)

Smooth and and stuck together.

Not coming apart,that good.

This is my STRAIGHT EDGE, it used to be some old frame measuring equipment. I put a peice of old junk .060 glass in the middle. That's where I glue and sand the joints.

Take a little 150 grit an lighty sand the stringy wood fibers off the edges. Some woods have it some grind clean. This is to keep them from breaking of later when I start spreading glue. Then blow off good. JF

I'm taking a break my wife said there's some homemade Apple pie calling my name. Stay tuned for more details on this buildalong. JF

Great build, and some very good pics. Get some milk with that pie.

Mike'bodork' I had another mistake in grinding my lams. That caught before gluing the butts together. I had a big divot on one side of the Osage, I must have looked up at my wife when she got home er something that made me wiggle in the middle. So I made up a new pair of tapers. $!++ Happens. You have to keep good consitration when grinding laminations :) JF

Fine thread. Best of what leatherwall is about. Doin. Thanks again.

JF, how much does the pics and text slow you down? It still seems like your moving like lightening to me! I have questions, but I'm waiting for more pictures to see if I can answer them :>) When I see what craftsman like you achieve I always remember, "Those who can, do, those who can't, teach" (I'm a retired elementary teacher) :>)

Mgerard, I'm much better doing, then teaching. It's hard to put good words to what,how and why I'm doing some things. Jf

Jeff, I'm enjoying the build along. Going to be another nice bow !

It has already been said,but I"ll say it again. This is a GREAT build along. Very well done

You cleaned your camera lens! Excellent stuff

Great so far,!

Glad you showed to bevel and pre glue the full length lams. Drives me nuts to see a nice bow with a big gap in the lams where they slid apart at glue up. Yea, a leather grip will hide it but it is still there!

OK, my belly is full of Apple pie :) Blow off the dust from the glue table and brush and brush and blow. JF

Cut the belly glass in two after they are both covered with masking tape. I prefer the automotive bodyrepair taper. Keep the razorblade at a low angle so you DON'T graphics a strand of the glass. JF

Grab a strand of glass, sorry.

There is a difference. It peels off nice later, after baking. JF

All the pieces are blown off and ready to glue up. If you get water in your air lines. Put a in line filter on the end at your blowgun. JF

I warm up everything except the glass, while I mix glue. JF

Mixing smooth-on epoxy 8.5oz 1to1. JF

Part B. I just use some hardwood scraps for mixing and application. JF

8.5oz mix well and scrape the sides and bottom. Mix mix mix. JF

Back glass first. Every side gets buttered with epoxy. Use enough on each piece to leave a even shine. JF

Set on the lower half of the form. I clamp mine in a vise. With a stick supporting the outer end. Because of space in my shop. JF

Every piece gets epoxy. I premark all the center's on the edge to keep alignment. JF

Oh yeah I built some arrows too, while I had time in between gluing;) I don't know where that picture came from. JF

It's hard to take pictures of the glue up while I go. It would make my phone very sticky. I put a little extra epoxy at the ends of the fades, not much. Just a little bit more. JF

When I put epoxy on the belly glass I do it on the other side of the table,so I don't get glue on the tape side. I started taping everything down tight. Starting at the riser. Then the limb ends , working my way to the belly ramps. I already know how much to let stick up at the top of riser,from past experience. You can do a dry run and mark,so you'll know. JF

I always put some 3 mil plastic on my form and I wax my form, earlier,just leave the wax on. Car wax. I also put some spacers on top of the riser to keep the ends of the wood and glass from bending over, that will cause a gap at the top of the belly ramps if you don't. JF

Tape down the metal pressure strips. They are the same width as the form. About 20gauge sheet metal,cut on a sheer. They even the pressure of the hose. The hose is woven,it has lumps. JF

Forgot I put another peice of plastic down before the hose, just in case. To keep any glue from getting on the hose. JF

Now the top half of the form. I put a couple extra shims between the top of form and hose to keep the gap tighter between hose and belly laminations. This form was made for a bigger longer riser. I can adapt :) JF

60psi in the hose and into the oven. My oven runs up to 180° shuts off and turns back on at 150° for 4hours. The glue kicks in about an hour. JF

Man, this buildalong takes more time then doing it. I added a thermometer so I can always see what's going on. JF

Let it cool down before you let the air out of the hose and open the form. JF

Cut the filiment tape on both sides and start u wrapping. JF

Pull off :) jf

There, isn't this pretty ;) stay tuned till tomorrow. To be continued :) JF

Thank you sir I really enjoy your buildalongs. Rick

So Brother when you get done playing with this thing, when are you going to step out of your box and start building one of those Grizzlies???:)

Soon OB, soon :) JF

This is really giving me the itch

Say it ain't so Jeff. Your going to build one of those weird curve things? :-)

Yep my favorite a 59 grizzly a clone or my renditon with different woods. JF

I'm not a bow builder, but I'm sure enjoying this thread! My son has built several bows for me and I'm always amazed at the amount of talent and patience is involved in these projects.

Bernie (formerly Catalpa)

This is a fun ride, haven't watched a build-a-long before. Thanks Jeff!

Looking good........

Big respect!

Glad I checked back in. I friggin LOVE it! That conglomerate of glue gorbs and lams don't look much like a bow yet does it? LOL... I enjoy that part. I can't wait to grind that crap off of there when comes off the form, but enjoy doing so. Just wait.... it'll come... there's a bow in there.... a GOOD one.

First thing I do when the goobers are off is get the tape off if it's clear glass. Just gotta know if there are any glue issues!

Only found a problem once and that was many years ago. Lately I have enough confidence to believe that it's all ok under the colored glass. But still there's that nagging fear!!!

Longcruise, I here. It's hard to wait. Jeff D, you and I know there's a bow in that UGLY mess :) JF

Jeff do you make take down recurves also?

Jeff do you make take down recurves also?

No, take downs of any bow,stick pretty. Just my rendition of a Hill,or a Northerner Mist style. My style :) A 1959 clone will be coming. JF

Dang spell check. The above message was for stickbow felty :) JF

Jeff, my last MI. deer on our north 40 was take with a Static Kodiak. After seeing Direwolf make one, I have wanted to do the same. Also maybe a all wood Grumley Deerslayer. Can't wait to finish building my new shop so I can let the creative juices flow again......Till then I will live through your build a long thread. Carry on. John

Allrighty I see where I left off. I gotta get this snit off the sides :) yuck. I switched the belt over on the edge grinder to a 24grit. So this won't take long,or burn. JF

And knock down the stick out on top of the riser. To be extra careful not to pull a glass strand. Grind from glass towards wood direction. JF

I nock the fuzzy tape edge off with some 80grit. Moving the block from glass towards wood direction and down towards the tip. Like you sharpening a knife. This will remove the tape that is rolled up on the edge. If this makes sense :) JF