From: camodave
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Buy bows from people who know what quiet is and do not mess with them
DDave
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From: YH2268
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Heavy arrows will reduce noise.
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From: Skeets
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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that would be too easy.
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From: kenwilliams
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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The keys to a quiet bow are proper brace height, nocking point in correct location, and arrows correctly spined to the bow. There is nothing mystical about it, just a proper understanding of how to setup and tune bow and arrow combinations.
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From: Sixby
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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The key to a quiet bow is tiller and timing. The bowyer builds a loud bow or a quiet bow. I can and do hunt my bows sans silencers. With just medium weight arrows.
God bless, Steve
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From: JusPassin
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Steve has a very valid point. Noise is wasted energy, which primarily occurs if the two limb tips aren't synchronized. Call it timing, tiller, whatever, but if they hit dead stop at the same time, good things happen.
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From: Yewbender
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Heavy arrows and 15 strand B50 keeps my ASL's quite. The most important to a quite bow is a clean loose.
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From: falcon
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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I think FF strings with a half beaver balls on them
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From: arlone
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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As My advancing age takes away "some" of my hearing, it is getting easier to quiet my bows.
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From: Flinger1
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Lol,,,great advice ddave!!!
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Yeah ok Dave who say's they know? LOL
Some will even give you a garbage string so your on your own alot of times!
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From: GLF
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Asl's shouldn't need anything to silence them if the limbs are balanced. Limb balance, which you can fix with the nock point if they're not too far off, release , tiller, and silencers, in that order.
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From: fdp
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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So much bow noise is related to a crummy release that it is unreal. But, that can be covered up with heavy enough arrows and enough stuff hanging on the string.
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From: nrthernrebel05
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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I agree with arlone. LOL I do believe that changing brace heights can have a positive effect in reducing noise. just my 2 cents.
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From: traxx
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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The key to a quiet bow.....
Quit using Chrono numbers as your only criteria for a good bow.Otherwise,your going to hafta keep finding ways to make em quieter.
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Release thats comical right there.LOL
The right string is a skinny string and padded loops. Housers you guys think is needed you could drag a car out of snow with them and then to tie the whiskers in knows and you think its grovey. Its from that era.LOl
You know housers you could tie a tug boat to the dock.LOL
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From: Dry Bones
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Buy a longbow from Jeff Freeman- Golden Key.
-Bones
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From: camodave
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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ACE from Brandon Stahl...I got one for sale at only twice what I paid for it. I may be getting old but I am cagey old.
DDave
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From: Andy Man
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Agree with Sixby-that is a big start
the rest is minuta
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From: GF
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Hmmmm....
I wonder what Mr. Hatfield has to say about this...?
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From: BSBD
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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I agree with with Sixby. It all starts with tiller and timing. Most of the rest are just band aids. Also, you would have to have an incredibly bad release to make a quit bow loud.
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From: jaz5833
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Date: 06-Dec-16 |
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Everything from a green sapling to an old barn board bow is quite if it's tuned properly. That can include both light and heavy arrows, old and new strings, with or without string silences.
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From: Bobby B
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Tiller and limb timing, brace height, string type and weight, silencers or not, nock location, arrow weight, smoothness of release...
Did I miss anything?!
How about nock fit, fletching type, type of rest, arrow spine...
endless, ain't it?! I take the gestalt view myself and figure either everything is in balance... or not-
And if something is amiss with my shooting I just assume that I suck for some reason and begin there! Haha
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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If the bow is made right, nocking point and brace height should get you there. Unless you are trying to shoot a ridiculously light or wrong spined arrow. Keep um quiet and pick a spot. You will find they don't duck/jump the string near as often. Ken
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From: Muttly
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Gotta admit, been paying attention to arrow flight and the sound of the release for a little bit. When everything jives, I get a cleaner, quieter release, better follow through, and better arrow flight. Same as any other stringed instrument, you can and will change the volume depending on finger placement and the extent of how much you pluck the string.
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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If the bow is 'made right', nocking point and brace height adjustments won't be needed.
I too agree with Sixby. If the bow is designed and dynamically balanced (timed) for the archer, it's inherently tuned, efficient, quiet, and adjustments and other bandaids aren't needed.
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From: MGF
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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I guess I agree with fdp.
Maybe it's because I haven't always shot all that well, lol, but my bow has been so loud and rough that I couldn't stand it when my shooting was off and, seemingly, whisper quiet and smooth when I do my job well. All without changing anything about the bow or arrows.
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From: David A.
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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My (patent pending) release aid will make a recurve as quiet as a longbow and a longbow as quiet as a self bow. Yes, it's much quieter than the smoothest finger release. It's also more accurate, esp. with short bows. 2017.
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From: kenwilliams
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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"If the bow is 'made right', nocking point and brace height adjustments won't be needed. I too agree with Sixby. If the bow is designed and dynamically balanced (timed) for the archer, it's inherently tuned, efficient, quiet, and adjustments and other bandaids aren't needed."
So Jeff, are you saying I can brace my Bear Super K at 6" and nock an arrow slightly different everytime and it will still be accurate and efficient because it is "made right?"
Or are you saying if the bowyer or manufacturer has the tiller, brace and nock point correct and I don't change it, my bow will be efficient and quiet.
Just trying to understand exactly what you are saing, not trying to be argumentative or a smart butt.
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From: GF
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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I'm gonna guess B.
If it's made right and set up wrong, you can't blame the bowyer for your own case of Stupid.
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Ken, no problem, I'll explain a bit. Basically, what I mean is that if the bow is designed to best suit the archer's holds with where the bow center and handle are located, how the grip is shaped, etc.., and along with, for instance, a predetermined nock point height that sets his arrow 1/8" above perpendicular to the string/shelf, and a 7" brace height, and then it's dynamically balanced to full draw with those 'settings', and shot with those settings, it'll be perfectly balanced throughout the draw, inherently tuned, quiet, and calm for him, and anyone who shoots just like he does.
Yes, string silencers might make it a wee bit quieter, but he won't be trying to mask 'built in' poor arrow flight, noise, and handshock by moving the nock point up and down, raising the brace height, heavy arrows, changing his bow hand pressure point, and such. And, it's a matter of degree, so the closer things are to optimum for him, the more forgiving the bow is of his human error or any slight changes he makes over time.
But if he sells it to someone who shoots differently enough, all bets are off and the new owner may have to make changes to try to regain as many of those good qualities as possible.
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From: RonG
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Arlone, I just turn off my hearing aids.. Ha!Ha!
I do not have anything on any of my bows to silence them.
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From: GLF
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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A person with a bad release can take a silent bow and make it heard 50 yards away. Limb timing is number one but release is almost as important. As for brace, Morrison suggests 6 1/2-7" and his recurvesand they're very quiet. You hear no more than a swish of the string cutting air. Brace is important but not so much for noise if the bows got good limb timing.
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From: GLF
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Most bow that need a really high brce to get quiet just have poor limb timing and the brace masks it. Or the archer has a poor release that needs masked.
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Ken and Jeff, we are on the same page. It starts with a correctly made bow. Arrow pass location,and tiller/limb timing. The nocking point/arrow and finger placement on the string needs to work with the tiller. Brace height will help. The string and silencers will just add a tiny bit of icing to the cake. The correct arrow weight and spine goes with out saying. If your bow is not quiet AFTER proper application then, you definitely have a release problem,as others have said. Sixby and Big Jim build a fine bow. Mr Hatfield is a record setter. Listen to them and their bows. They quietly state the facts,and won't be drawn in to arguments,they shouldn't have to be called on all the time to teach us how to set up and how to shoot a bow. There is a world of reference material out there and most is available right here on the Wall. The wall has an abundance of good folks willing to share knowledge and answer questions. Ken
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From: GF
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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So, Jeff D....
What you've said there makes sense, to a degree...
But what do you do about a bow that was not designed specifically for the way that you shoot? Some crazy thing like, oh I dunno... maybe you bought a "factory" bow instead of a custom job?
Seems like nock point height is a tuning variable, but are you saying that it's more important to get the NP right and then go to work on the arrow?
One more good thing about the modern age: free decibel meter phone apps. If you want to KNOW if the bow has quieted down or not, you can get an actual measurement.
And one more question... If you're trying to make the bow happy & efficient, then do you guys recommend tuning a bare string first and then adding silencers after the fact?
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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Definitely tune bare string first. Silencers won't fix a problem,just mask it some what. Get the bow tuned first then silencers are just icing on the cake. You may even pick what you think is the prettiest accessory to your bow rather than the most efficient. Ken
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 07-Dec-16 |
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GF, I don't deal with factory bows too much since I make my own. And since I do, I have the luxury of designing and tillering them as I see fit. But yes, in the case of a production bow, most folks are reserved to moving the nock point until they're ok with its timing and/or tuning, and usually it can be done to suit them. I'll tell you this though, we can't always glean all of the benefits of a bow made precisely for our idioms by masking the inadequacies of one that isn't, and the farther it is from optimum for us, the harder it is to maintain a semblance of them.
At this point, if I could no longer make my own bows, I'd likely shoot a bow with adjustable tiller. If I had to shoot a production bow and the tiller was off to such a degree that I had to move the nock point until it degraded the qualities I've come to expect, I wouldn't hesitate to set the nock point right where I wanted it, then correct its relative limb balance by sanding a limb and refinish it. I know that's not an option for most folks.
I've used a decibel meter, an accelerometer to measure handshock, and load cells to measure relative limb strength... my version of primitive bowmaking, yepper ;^) I have the bulk of my testing ahead of me yet, but hope to ultimately put something together in an article, blog, or something to make the info useful to others... mostly bowyers... but who knows, maybe guys setting up bows they purchase will find some of it useful too.
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From: 2 bears
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Date: 08-Dec-16 |
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Jeff I totally get what you are saying. You are a bow engineer and can set up a nocking point without thought and most likely by eye. It is a simple step for you. For folks not quite so knowledgeable,the nocking point has to be set up in relation to the arrow pass or the finest tillering job is wasted. I don't see how new folks can even get started without a bow square to get the arrow true with the arrow pass. They also need a starting point for the brace height. Starting with a good bow,the next most important thing is the correct arrow,then knocking point,and brace height. Then if you want some pretty little fluffs on the string they won't be masking anything and may help just a touch. Ken
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From: Let 'em fly
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Date: 08-Dec-16 |
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I don't have anything to add because my traditional skills are still evolving, but a great thread for me to go over this weekend when I can apply it to a bow.
Cheers!
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From: BigJim
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Date: 08-Dec-16 |
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BigJim is a Stickbow.com Sponsor - Website |
Think about this for a second... bowyer (insert name) builds a bow... best one he ever built. Bottom limbs draw back nearly identical but slightly positive on top to account for split finger tiller. When drawn and released
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From: BigJim
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Date: 08-Dec-16 |
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BigJim is a Stickbow.com Sponsor - Website |
Think about this for a second... bowyer (insert name) builds a bow... best one he ever built. Bottom limbs draw back nearly identical but slightly positive on top to account for split finger tiller. When drawn and released the tips return to zero simultaneously. All is great in the world....but what happens if the nock is just a scant off. I'm here to tell you that most of the people I watch shoot are just as imperect as I am..both in shooting and building. The faster the limbs move due to performance either by light arrows or just that unbelievable bow speed and yes, I don't believe it, the more they will bounce and vibrate when they hit home.
The more out of line the string had to travel due to plucking, snatching, flinching or whatever will produce the same problem. Of course there are design issues that can be the blame for noise, but they are fewer than the shooter issues. BigJim.
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