Hey folks,

I'm interested in a drawknife, actually two, one for me and one for my dad. Would like some recommendations on old knives and new ones. Should I buy vintage or new. New would be the easiest route since there's so much unknown in buying used, but want the most bang for the buck

Thanks- Matt

Blade quality is the key, some of the new imports will not hold an edge. Bob

Check out Lee Valley Tools. They carry a wide assortment of hand tools for woodworking. Draw knives are used for chair making. Another company is lea Neilson. They are on the high end but worth the money. Not sure if they have draw knives, I have some of their hand planes.

Hi,

Get a good sharpening device.

I`m partial to those sticks covered with industial diamond powder. Once you know how to put/keep a good edge on your tool, it doesn´t matter if you buy used or new.

I actually prefer used tools - they cost less and I have met a lot of really knowledgeable people when picking up the tools. A lot of them are old timer closing their shop and many a times I walked away with way more than I originally bought. Ebay is a good source for me.

shoot straight - skookum bow

The best ones I have are from antique stores, but I was buying in the early 80s, not sure what is out there now. The best one that is available today that I have found, I have had mine foralmost 20 years is:

http://barrtools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BT&Product_Code=DKS&Category_Code=DK

Other places to try are Country Workshops

Lee Valley I would avoid. They are top notch, and only a few miles from me, one of only a few businesses that has always had complete integrity, even when it hurt their bottom line. Huge supporter of theirs. Own their carver's and forged round end DK, they have never carried a serious DK in my mind (well the little on isn't bad, just tiny). Pro grade in my mind is one a full time woodworker would use today knowing what is out there, or alternatively one you would choose along side a better antique.

There are two basic type, ones that look like a flat bar with an edge ground on one side (kinda like a single bevel broadhead) These might be easier for some to follow a ring with. The two LV models I mentioned are like these, as are some of the customs, many people like these. I prefer ones that are more like the wing of an plane in section, or a long thin teardrop. These are better cutters while still having great control, the Barrs, and my best antiques are like that. But they do slice really well, so you might not follow a grain line as well, particularly on character wood. Both are OK, personal preference. I don't like spending much for the first type mentioned since a monkey could probably make one, but there are some high priced ones out there.

This is very much like the plane type I got from a flea market:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Tc0t8CgyXiI/SS8IjXEwjUI/AAAAAAAACPc/4ZW6Mv8nlj8/s1600/Drawknife.jpg

If you go back 20 years, the choices were few, but just as there are many people making selfbows today, there are tons of amateurs out there who are rocking bladesmiths and tool makers, and are making some really nice stuff.

Ebay might work...

The problem I had with antiques were that people use them for splitting kindling, so you get a nice one and you see it has some hammer damage on it, but it looks great, but when you start really working it, it turns out there is a crack somewhere. Or sometimes even worse is if people tried to sharpen them.

Speaking of which the plane like ones aren't harder to sharpen, but if you have limited experience and tools, you will find them harder. That is probably why the single bevel ones were the only ones on offer for a while, but people are a lot more sophisticated about sharpening today. Basically the single bevel ones sharpen well on anything flat. it pays to have to slack belt sharpening skills or a mobile wrist to sharpen the plane like ones as they are convex grinds. There is a kind of in between version, but I don't like those, neither fish nor fowl in my view.

I got an old one with wood handles, made in Germany, at a yard sale for $4. I have not done much with it, but works great the little I have played with it. I thought, any blade made in Germany for $4 should be a good deal.

If you buy one used make sure it's not pitted up too bad. New, I'd look at the two cherries. Length will be your preference, 10" is common.

Hi,

@ stickhead : I´m curious who made your German draw knives.

Were they made by Ochsenkopf (Oxhead) oder by F.Dick ?

Should be a marking on them near one of the handles.

When buying draw knives, get one with as large a handle as you can. Short handled draw knives become a PITA when operated over a longer time.

Also check out spoke shaves. They are the cat´s meow for more delicate work.

shoot straight - skookum bow

I like old ones. Flea markets, used tool places, etc may yield some. I inherited one from my dad. It has helped make hundreds of bows. I never say him use it. He was a consummate woodworker but ... Don't know much about the new ones. Here's mine. http://traditionalarchery101.com/osage.html

Jawge

I've been looking at a Stubai 10", dont know much about them but get positive reivews

Hi,

The Stubai comes from Austria. Check the handle length before you buy. The short handled ones are junk. If you don´t believe me - you will find out for yourself.

shoot straight - skookum bow

Skookum bow- what do you mean by handle length? As in some have a full handle and some have knobs?

Back in the early 70s, Stubai was one of the main sources of climbing gear, then guys like Chouinard got involved on their way to billionairehood. I never liked their woodworking tools much, but they might work for you.

One thing to consider is what the tools are made for. I am not aware of anyone who makes a premium set of tools for bowmaking (assuming that why is we are talking about DKs). In another field we would by now have a Tim Baker set, or some such. So you go to places like the alps where they have a lot of softwood, and you get some DK, it might be used for shaving shingles, different temper, different width, different shape. There are log building and chairmaking, clogs, cabinetmaking, and carving, etc... etc... When I got my first shaves and DKs, I was making paddles.

Hi,

Yes - exactly. You will be way more comfortable PLUS have better control of your tool with a long handle. Avoid the knob type handle. Just my 2bits worth, meant as a good advice.

shoot straight - skookum bow

Also there are draw knives that have the handle in line with the blade. Others have them off-set 90°. You can exert more force on your blade with the in-line handle - just like a handle bar on a motorcycle compared to pull backs - since your wrists are straight when you pull. As I have mentioned before - check out spokeshaves. I actually believe that these tools compliment each other - and I am not even a bowyer, just a handyman when it comes to wood. But a good tool will make you a better craftsman.

shoot straight - skookum bow

Yeah, the knob as on the LV forged is weird, and not for a first. I am not sure why they did that.

If I find a good DK, I don't worry too much about handles as a woodworker, I could replace, or repair them. Old tools tend to have the body in iron so if that is in need of repair it can get either ugly or high end welder skillish, and then there is the temper to preserve, but wood is easy.

So you pull and lever gently on a draknife, this tends to indicate a belled shape, and that is what most have. But then you have to wonder whether that shape actually fits hands. So you also end up with just fancy turned handles that seem to be more about a look than a practical result.

Since you need two, getting one of each type, presumably antique, sharpening them, and using them, you will soon be an expert in what you like. Even though bows are narrow, I prefer a widish tool of the dimensions of the Barr I like (see above). More comforbale, more control. The other option you tend to see has more dropped handles more narrowly set. Don't like those as much. The bar was 5/16 thick, 1.5 wide in the blade, and 15" wide, with cutting edge of 6.5". The handles are set right at the back of the bar. Anything sorta like that. By the way the plane shaped ones tend to have the thicker blades.

I feel I have an intimate relationship with drawknives as I've lived, sweated, bled, and loved by that sword for decades. Some relevant things have been noted already in this thread. I've owned several knives and gotten rid of most of them... either because they didn't measure up, requiring too much corrective action on my behalf, or caused the same effect with equal or greater work than those I already owned. I use them from rough-housing, physically demanding removal of heavy bark and sapwood... to finessing a single fragile high elevation yew growth growth ring. I currently own just two. A heavy duty Snow & Nealley very slightly curved blade workhorse that I bought new, and a slightly more curved, thinner bladed Pexto that I bought used. Both are as flat on their backsides as I can make them, which I believe heightens their degrees of effectiveness.

If you buy used, buy one with a flat backside, without pitting or rust on its surfaces. Ensure it has good handle wood, which is completely tight.

Hi, On my post above, I must correcct myself. Good tools will not automatically make you a better craftsman. But they can help - and almost ALL good craftsmen use the best tools that they can get their hands on.

That is what I meant.

shoot straight - skookum bow

I'm sure there are some new draw knives out there that are as good as the vintage tools, but you'll probably pay a dear price.

I would shop local flee markets, antique stores and the big auction site. I bought a Worth draw knife on line and it is an excellent tool. Yes, long handles for sure. Make sure the blade is not pitted. An 8" draw knife is great for bow making.

Good hunting.

http://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/draw-knives/

Thanks all for the help- I definately know what style knife I'm looking for now, prob gonna shop for a nice vintage one first. Thanks again

I believe I paid 55-60 dollars for the Snow & Nealley new with tax and $40 or so for the Pexto in like new condition with shipping from the big auction site. Both bargains in the end.

Seek quality, even if used and on a budget. Don't settle or skimp. It will last more than one lifetime.

I like the old stuff, because of the high carbon steel, it will be sharper and hold an edge much longer than stainless. As Skookum bow said check out the spokeshaves, they are invaluable when doing fine work....Ron

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