I have a McBroom Stringfollow 69" that likes to be shot Split Finger (and I do sometimes). Any tricks to compensating for 3 under besides raising the nock point?

I haven't figured out how brace height comes into play.

I don't change brace at all if I decide to shoot 3 under, although I sure don't shoot that way other than in the side yard now and then...or stump shooting. The only thing you likely need do is raise the nockset, and maybe not even that. My old Carroll's recurve will tolerate 3 under with the same set as split finger. When guys string walk they aren't changing their nockset every time they change hold on the string. Just work it out with your style and your bow.

A lot of guys who shoot 3 under don't get a good release and tend to pluck the string. Your bow should shoot as well either way as long as the nocks where it needs to be. If it doesn't it's not the bow,lol.

One other thing. Three under the string starts to push the arrow a little forward of where it starts split finger so sometimes, with carbons especially, it will show a hair stiff 3under.

What the guys said. Brace height is handles just like it shooting any other way. You lower the brace until the bow is floppy and nosy. Then you start raising it 1 or 2 turns at a time until the draw smooths out, the noise goes away, and the arrow flight is on a string. That's the proper brace height for YOU and your shooting style and that string and arrow. May or may not work for anyone else. And makes no difference at all.

Use two nock sets. 3 under commonly allows the arrow to slip down on release causing the arrow to porpoise. As far as plucking the string? I don't know why one would think that it is more common for 3 under shooters. If your form is solid it ain't any different than split as far as release is concerned.

"A lot of guys who shoot 3 under don't get a good release and tend to pluck the string."

"Three under the string starts to push the arrow a little forward of where it starts split finger so sometimes, with carbons especially,"

??

You have to use two nock sets to stop the arrow from sliding down on the string when you release. To get everything in place you do bare shaft tuning. A lot of guys that shot split finger will be better of with two nock sets as well.

I've got it dialed in for flight and accuracy with 3 under with 8.5gpp. The bow is just significantly quieter Split flinger. I mostly only shoot split past 30 yards. Interestingly the bow isn't quieter with a heavier carbon setup but it is a bit duller noise with 10 gpp cedar arrows. I think they just absorb the shock differently.

I ended up with a higher nock and about a 7 1/4" brace. Haven't tried higher than that. With my high anchor I have about a 26 yard point on so shooting split vision or gapping is easy for pie plate accuracy. And if I do want a fixed crawl it's only about 3/4" and then I've got a solid 10-15 yard squirrel hunting accuracy.

I was reading about higher brace heights being 'more forgiving' and lower brace heights being 'higher performance' so if that's the case, it makes sense that shooting the bow out of tiller would work better at a higher brace. But I don't know if that all holds true.

Steve I have no idea why is does either, but the fact is it does make a difference. I've seen in it here when with guys switching and I taught archery in my shop n saw it there alot. For whatever reason guys tend to get off the string better split finger till they get accustomed to 3 under. We've had a number of guys in here talkin about sore figure tips when they switched, also complaints or bad arrowflight. I don't know how many guys pm me n tell me that after they worked on getting off the string there problem went away. Then theres some that don't wanna believe anyone who end up going back to split. And yes if the nock is loose on the string it'll slip. But I've shot split 41 years and 3under for about 10 years now with one nock with no problems except one time. My string I was trying was smaller and yes my nocks slipped. I changed strings back and problem solved.

I've never tried string walking so have no clue how they get by with it. Common sense tells you it won't work because of the tiller change but it does, go figure,lol. But yes higher brace is more forgiving because the arrow is off the string a sooner before some torqueing problems can effect it. Lower brace gives a longer power stroke so is a little faster with slightly lower weight.

Btw Steve, some classes don't allow 2 nocks. Well at least that's the way it was when I still competed.

String walking works without changing anything on bows that are tillered positive because they're usually too strong in the bottom limb and walking down the string makes the bottom limb act weaker, offering better dynamic balance.

I am with Jeff Durnell on why it works. Might that mean that tiller is not as important as we have made it out to be and limb balance is? Hmm

Most of the string walkers I know shoot with even tiller.

No expert,but in my experience guys having trouble with three under,noise,sore fingers,etc, are putting too much weight on the ring finger.

I've written this before, but it bears repeating.

Earl Hoyt did an experiement with Rick McKinney. The played with bows with different tillers, from 3/8" posiive to 3/8" negative. After shooting many groups, the determined that there was -0- difference in limb performance, or accurcy. The only difference was in the way the bow felt when shot. Earls determinatin was that tiller adjustment on recurves is basically meaningless from a performance perspective.

in other wards if soemone can't shoot a bow, it ain't a tiller probelm.

In my mind, how a bow feels during and after the shot IS part of its performance. For instance, if it tips in the hand when drawn and/or produces considerable handshock, it could perform better... regardless of whether it's accurate or fast.

I don't disagree Jeff. Just want folks to understand that in lots of cases tiller is an excuse.

Static tiller probably does mean very little. But tiller at full draw/limb timing means everything. I bought a custom bow back in the 80's that I liked so much I ordered another for backup. When I got the new bow I couldn't get it tuned with the same setup, even tho both bows were only 1 lbs apart. I finally gve up when a friend ask me to try something. He said he thought the limbs were out time and ask me to switch the limbs ned for end. I did so and got a bow that shot great and tuned easily. Problem is the limbs didn't match the riser that way so I called the bowyer and sent it back. He told me that in fct the limbs tiller was way off at my draw length and that he'd fix it n send it back to me. I got it back n tried it. Nothing had changed. He hadn't done anything to fix it so I sent it back to him . He sent it back n told me it was all in my mind. I took it to a shoot every weekend and challenged guys to tune it. No one could so I out a sign on it n hung it on nail at ever shoot for a year and offering non-believers the chance to tune it. So yes, limb timing/tiller at full draw means everything. And no I won't tell the bowyers name after all this time but yes he still mkes plenty of bows, and people like them.

So exactly what does "out of time" mean to people? Typically limb timing is considered to be how the limbs return to brace. Top limb first, bottom limb first etc.. That event is controlled by the static tiller. Changing tiller, whether dynamic or static changes the timing of the limbs.

The final and most influential part of the dynamic tiller process is the individual shooting the bow. Do they drag the bottom finger do they drag the index finger. This all affects limb timing and how the limbs return.

Bottom line is as long as the limbs return the same way, and the string follows the same path every time, there shouldn't be an issue.

There may be seem exceptions, but they are very few and far between.

I'll stick with what Hoyt and McKinney discovered.

In my case, the bow just isn't as smooth and is louder. I don't feel it pulling me off target vertically though it could be (I should try the laser pointer test).

This really interests me as I am getting my 1st ILF riser in a couple of days.

Somewhere in my draw length one of those limbs got weak and thru the tiller off at my draw. The Tiller at rest was 1/8. When I put the bottom limbs on top it fixed it tho. So the bottom limb must have been weak. Limbs can be out of time and the only result is a loud thumpy bow. Limb timing is to make both limbs hit the relaxed position at the same time. It's not always controlled by static tiller. A limb can be right at the relaxed position and be weak as the draw gets longer. usually static tiller does control the timing but not always as my bow showed. Limbs should match. On rare occasion they don't. That's why Jack Howard used to spine test his laminations, even his glass.

"Static tiller controls the timing".

I don't think that's quite accurate, or is at least misleading. Static tiller isn't always indicative of how the limbs will act in accordance with one another... human influence notwithstanding.

The way I see it is... the strength of one limb relative to the other determines the static/braced tiller, along with any unbraced discrepencies or irregularities, such as can be the case more easily recognized in selfbows.

The limbs' strengths relative to the archer's holds controls the timing... and two bows may have limbs that are timed optimally to a specific archer's holds, yet their tiller measurements differ.

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