From: jk
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Date: 25-Aug-16 |
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One of my LB's has an epoxy finish. I want to reshape the grip, making it more narrow. The rest of the bow reportedly had an epoxy finish.
I read somewhere that there's a way of diluting epoxy to avoid a lumpy finish (I especially want the grip to be smooth).
Anybody know how to apply an epoxy finish? What kind of epoxy goop would I need?
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From: jk
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Date: 25-Aug-16 |
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One of my LB's has an epoxy finish. I want to reshape the grip, making it more narrow. The rest of the bow reportedly had an epoxy finish.
I read somewhere that there's a way of diluting epoxy to avoid a lumpy finish (I especially want the grip to be smooth).
Anybody know how to apply an epoxy finish? What kind of epoxy goop would I need?
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From: Sharky1
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Date: 25-Aug-16 |
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I am definitely not an expert but if I was going to try this, as a former automotive painter, I would spray the entire bow after making the adjustment. After shaping the grip I would scuff the entire bow with steel woolor 320gr and spray the bow with Minwax epoxy. They make epoxy in a rattle can. If you try just clearing the area repaired you will surely see a difference. Again, you may want to wait for somebody with experience but if I were going to do this I would attack it in this fashion.
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From: Longcruise
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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The hobby stores sell a two part epoxy finish for gloss coats. Haven't tried it but maybe on a board bow I'm working on.
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From: N. Y. Yankee
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Minwax spray is not epoxy, it is polyurethane. The epoxy finish is a two part epoxy mixed with acetone and is very thin, requiring several coats but makes a good finish. I have never heard of needing a UV blocker for it either.
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From: jk
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Thanks...great suggestions. The bow in question does have a faintly lumpy coat...that does kill reflections fwiw...not un-attractive over bamboo.
I don't understand the "waterproof" question...is't any epoxy coat waterproof?
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From: fdp
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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You can thin epoxy with acetone. Depending on the setting time you can either spread it with your fingers and hold it until it dries making sure it doesn't run, or turn it some other way.
The amount of acetone that you can use and still get a good set up varies by brand of epoxy, so paly with that. The Devcon 2 Ton from the big box stores works quite well. Mix it thin, apply it very thin, and plan on doing 2 or 3 coats. For a small area the 30 minute variety should give you plenty of working time.
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From: Plywood Bender
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Hey John,
Back when I was making bows I used an epoxy finish at times.
I'd mix one of those syringes of two part 30 minute (not the 5 minute stuff) with about 5 parts acetone in a small glass bottle. Stir until dissolved.
I spread it on with a soft lint proof cloth. Do not take more than two passes per coat. Depending on heat and humidity let it dry for a few hours between coats. I would usually 0000 steel wool between coats. If it is tacky at all, the steel wool will make a mess.
Keep adding coats until you get the finish you want. This will be very glossy, so use the steel wool to knock it down to whatever finish you're looking for.
This used to be referred as the "Massey Finish?
Carl
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From: fdp
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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It was actually Massie as in Jeff from Texas who designed and built the Massie Longhorn longbow, not Massey as in Jay from Alaska who was a sinew backed wood bow guy.
I know that has gotten crossed up over the years, but......
And Runner is right, not too much acetone. Just enough to get it to spread well.
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From: JusPassin
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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I just finished a cedar strip canoe using marine grade epoxy. It does require an over coat of marine polyurethane to provide UV protection.
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From: BuzAL
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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I'm also building a boat and leaving some wood "bright" (unpainted), encapsulated in epoxy. For that, I intend to use marine varnish or clearcoat to protect the epoxy from UV.
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From: jk
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Hey Carl, if anybody should know about plywood it's you ! LOL
Hope we get to shoot together again one of these days.
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From: Tucker
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Thunderbird Epoxy finish Follow their directions Tough durable finish I apply with a spray gun but it can be brushed or wiped on.
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From: jk
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Is there a trick to avoiding wipe marks when wiping epoxy?
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Use a gray foam brush and let it flow. JF
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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This was applied with a foam brush. JF
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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The finished bow. After spraying with indoor outdoor minwax helsman spar varnish urythane in satin.JF
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From: Rick Barbee
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Jeff, is there a reason you applied the Helsmans over the Thunderbird?
Rick
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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It was big Jim's version of thunder bird. I use the gloss epoxy to seal and fill the grain. I like the way Helsman satin urythane lays down nice and smooth. Plus anybody can touch it up, if needed in the future. No guessing what to use. Easy to apply. My two ยข. JF the
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From: milehi101
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Date: 26-Aug-16 |
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Thunderbird is probably the best choice but I have also used West Systems with the 2 hour hardener. It is not a perminate finish as the UV rays from the sun will make it deteriorate. It requires a UV protective coat of varnish to be a good finish. I have a lonb bow I finished that way 15 years ago it is my go to bow and it still looks great.
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From: Nemah
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Date: 27-Aug-16 |
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All the bows I make now have 4-6 coats of MAS epoxy on the riser, and 2-4 coats on the limb edges. I sand the wood to 320 grit and slop on a coat of epoxy with a foam brush. When the epoxy sets to masking-tape stickiness, I slop on another coat. After 4 coats, I let the epoxy set for a day or two. It will never be smooth, always lumpy. I then sand CAREFULLY with 220 and 320 grit. The trick is to not cut through to the wood. If I do, even in a very small area, I apply 2-3 more coats of epoxy and I sand again. I never epoxy the glass on the limbs. I then lightly finish sand with 400, wipe the bow down with denatured alcohol, go over it with a tack cloth, and spray on 4 light coats of Minwax semi-gloss poly about 30 minutes to 2 hours between coats. Now I go fishing or do yard work for 3 days. The poly must have 72 hours to dry! Then I inspect the bow for any defects in the finish, dust, insects, cat hair, etc. If none, I'm done! If I find something, I hit the entire bow with synthetic steel wool and spray on 2 more coats of poly. The epoxy will fill all grain and pores and make the bow waterproof. This method is time-consuming, but it works for me. Richard
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