I wouldn't, but some do with a bolt inside the shaft. There's a thread that has alot of info about different cutting set ups for carbon. Harbor Fr. has a small chop saw for about $30.00 that I heard works well. Chuck

NO You need a wish speed say. You can use a dremel but getting the cut square is tough.

The carbon will fracture as you get near to cutting thru with the tube cutter.

Yes it will work just fine do it all the time with gold tips just go slow.

Yes it works just as hunterbob said

I did not like the finished cut with my tubing cutter. I went to a Harbor Frieght mini cut off saw. I use it for all my shafts even woods.

Twisted Branch and M60gunner X2. Here's my set up using Harbor Freight saw # 62136

If you already have one, a Dremel works great. The cut might not be perfectly flush but I've found it's good enough, especially after the insert is installed. Sometimes I even get it perfect.

Not recommended. It may crush fibers causing a fracture later on. Ken .

I have a 4" grinder, you can get them for 15 bucks though I have a Dewalt and a makita. I get 1mm blades, thin ones, actual thickness doesn't mater. I clamp the grinder to a board and make a hole in a piece of wood I clamp so that the arrow is at the correct length. Set it up so the arrow is square to the edge of the blade at cut length. Done hundreds of arrow that way. I guess if the only thing I did was archery, I would have a dedicated set-up, but mine is just as accurate and I don't have to store something I rarely use. You can cut dozens of arrows in a few minutes and that holds me for a few years or longer, what with all the stuff I already have.

I have used a copper tubing cutter to cut carbons (3-4 dozen?) on the nock end with no issues.

As stated above, go slow and let the blade do the work. Follow up with light chamfer inside and out (reloading/brass chamfer tool is excellent for this).

Hope this helps.

is the ice safe to walk on? some will say yes, some no and some get wet. who do you want to trust?

It works fine *IF* you use a mandrel - something inside to hold the shaft round.

I use an old 100 grain brass insert that has been polished down a few thousandths to slip in and out easily.

A close fitting drill bit or other metal dowel would work fine also.

I polish the cut end with 320 grit wet-or-dry paper.

Dan I sent you a p.m and it's the "least" I can do for your kindness to me..I can do them on my Arrow saw for you. Keefers <'))><

Cut 1/8" long with a dremel and finish on a sander with a 90 degree fence. Comes out perfect.

You can make a simple shaft cutter with a Dremel tool. I only needed to do 8 shafts so I taped my Dremel to an old section of bed frame and clamped some wood scraps to the other end to hold the nock and act as a length gauge. It worked perfectly. Manually rotate shaft while cutting rather than pushing through the blade.

http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/TF/lw/thread2.cfm?threadid=279340&category=88#4009817

Some of you might have gotten away with using a tubing cutter on your carbon shafts, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. Tubing cutters are designed to part the material not cut it, even with a mandrel your crushing the carbon fibers. And as far as I'm concerned by recommending the tubing cutter to be used that way is going to get someone in the emergency room with fibers imbedded in their arm. Carbon shafts should be CUT with either an abrasive cutoff wheel or a very find toothed rotating saw. Bob

why the not use the manufactures recommendations?

HIGH SPEED SAW!!!!!!!!

25 bucks. Harbor Freight.

No one is calling any one a liar,just stating their experience and trying to help one another out. The fact is a tubing cutter works right up until the time it don't. You may cut dozens of arrows and shoot them hundreds of times but one failure isn't worth it. A carbon shaft and carbon slivers through the hand is bad news. It is your hand do as you choose but there are better methods as has been pointed out. As a matter of conscience I recommend against it. Ken

I know we all want to save money but everytime i see a thread like this I say why?? Saving on a arrow saw is not worth it. You want a clean, straight cut. Why settle for a slightly imperfect cut that could affect arrow flight. I go a slightly used arrow saw for 80.00 and i best it lasts me 15 years or more. Worth it to me. A arrow squaring tool by G5 or others and sold by 3 Rivers is also worth the money.

I have tried a tube cutter with a mandrel.No matter how slow and careful I go I always hear crunching of the fibers.They're fine for aluminum but you're headed for trouble with carbon.

Just use a dremel.

Sorry Holezone. I missed the attempt to be funny. I am getting too ancient to be funny. :^) Wood was all there was when I started then fiberglass was all the rage. Aluminium put an end to fiberglass. Then along came carbon. There are many pros and cons for both. I will be happy to discuss them but I don't want this to get too long. For the benefit of younger/newer archers, please let me add another caution to cutting and especially sanding carbon. The dust is ever bit as bad as asbestos. Don't do it in your living area. Wear a mask or at least do it outside with a breeze or fan blowing away from you. Again you may get away with it for a while, right up until the cough,shortness of breath,and bad results show up on X-RAY Take care Ken

I have used the tube cutter with perfect results on GT trads, but had less than perfect results on 3-Rivers Trad Only shafts, so I think it may depend on the shaft.

I use 2" tape like a pipe wrap and a 4" 90 degree grinder with a narrow cut-off wheel. Never had a problem.

Harbor freight should just about do it.

Tundra

OK, I wasn't going to chime in on this, because I'm really weary of arguments, but here goes anyway.

"YES", you can cut carbon shafts with a tubing cutter.

"NO", you cannot cut carbon shafts with a tubing cutter without damaging the carbon fibers of the shaft.

Eventually that damage is going to bite you, or someone else in the butt.

Rick

Well put Rick. I used too many words to say the same thing. Ken

I bought the mini cut off saw, but it has a fine tooth steel blade. I tried to find the abrasive blades but they didn't have them. Which one works better? MP

abrasive blades -- no chipping. Harbor Freight has them. Ken

You can use the fine tooth saw blade that comes with the Harbor Freight saw, you just have to turn the blade around backwards so that the teeth are not biting into the shaft. Don't try to cut carbon shafts with the saw blades teeth - I'm pretty sure it will cause the shaft to shatter.

I found abrasive blades to fit the Harbor Freight saw at Ace Hardware.

X 2 aromakr.

Does the Harbor Freight mine saw have a fence(maybe wrong term forgive me) so the shaft can be squared to the blade. I'm seriously considering getting one of these saws.

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