From: Sneaky Fox
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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Hi guys, I recently got a Bear Black Bear riser in a trade and was wondering if anyone knows what it's made of - aluminum, magnesium, a mix? I have a friend willing to sand blast and anodize for free, but I don't know if the sandblasting will harm the riser or, if magnesium, if either process would be risky to his expensive equipment because of possible magnesium dust flare ups. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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From: kmbrown
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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I'm pretty sure it's magnesium
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From: Sneaky Fox
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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Thanks for the info!
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From: camodave
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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Risers of that era were made of magnesium in most cases...aluminum got more popular once machined risers started to take over
DDave
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From: Sneaky Fox
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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Thanks Dave. I did a Google search and saw people guessing both magnesium and aluminum so I wasn't sure. Good to know. Now I guess I have to figure out if sandblasting and anodizing magnesium is doable/safe.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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If they were strong enough for compound bow pressures, they will stand up to recurves.
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From: davesonic444
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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I would look for safe handling of magnesium online first. Here is a address i found interesting from a google search: http://www.magnesium.com/w3/data-bank/index.php?mgw=222
Be safe
Dave
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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I am going to be different on this one. I believe it is cast aluminum. My reasoning is because this bow and Jennings bows of the same time period share the same risers. Jennings used cast aluminum. They are heavier than magnesium risers of the same time period like PSE or Hoyt. My son sandblasted my BB riser with no issues. I wanted to have it anodized but when It saw the casting marks and pits I had him used an auto finish.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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I also want to mention you have a riser with one of the best grip out there. I like it better than my Hoyts or even my Bear Mag TD. But, when I had it made into ILF I had Bob Gordon weight the lower limb pocket. I had illusions of grandeur of the perfect but cheap 3D riser. Well after one 40 target shoot I was wanting to hire a bow caddy.
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From: Sneaky Fox
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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Thanks for the info guys. I was wondering about pitting due to the casting. Maybe I should just spray it, but it's tough to pass up an offer to free anodizing!
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From: Longcruise
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Date: 30-May-16 |
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I have a Bear Blacktail riser that I think is magnesium. It's circa 1974. I took the finish off with a torch and scraper the cleanup with wire wheels.
It's a very rough casting.
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 31-May-16 |
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I stripped a Bear Mag riser recently. I tried that soy stripper, you know no harm to me or environment stuff. Well after two days and no real results I went and got a small can of "Aircraft Stripper" at the auto paint store. Within 30 minutes I was done, yes I needed heavy rubber gloves, old rags, and had to seal up the used stuff for recycle but it was done.
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From: JimP
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Date: 31-May-16 |
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Kleen Strip Premium stripper.Works good if you follow the instructions.Then a trip to the beadblaster to finish removing the paint from the hard to get areas.
Jim
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From: Dkincaid
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Date: 31-May-16 |
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Coat it in paint stripper with the grip off. Use a spray stripper takes maybe two coats if you have good stripper and allow it time to bubble up. I used a fine wire brush when I sprayed the ones I did and it worked good. There will be casting marks and possibly imperfections in the riser.
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From: barebo2
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Date: 31-May-16 |
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Gasket remover will suck the finish off of almost anything. I've used it on motorcycle tanks and racing bike frames.
I just got a Mathews "3D Vapor" compound that had blown the string and the guy stuck it in the corner of his garage. It was a mess but after a half hour of elbow grease, it looks sweet. Nice camo pattern and wood grip. Kinda heavy in hand. Got a set of limbs coming from a fellow 'Waller, and I can't wait to see what I can come up with. Limb pocket angle is 16 degrees so it should work. Post pics later this week when the limbs arrive.
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From: 4t5
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Date: 02-Jun-16 |
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I've had great luck with CITRISTRIP.
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From: Scott F
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Date: 02-Jun-16 |
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The hard part is getting paint to stick to the bare riser. I had one in the past that I roughed up and painted camo and it looked sharp. The one I hsve now was stripped and painted black by its former owner and the paint chips down to bare metal. I have read that self etching primer is hit or miss - what's the deal? Does it work?
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 03-Jun-16 |
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There is some good info over on TradTalk. A whole forum devoted to Warf's and DYI old compound risers. Some of those guys use truck bed liner to refinish their risers. Check it out you do not need to be a member to view.
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From: longrifle
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Date: 03-Jun-16 |
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I strip all of mine, including the BB, with aircraft stripper and fine clean with a wire brush and ScotchBrite pads. Used a good quality acid-etching primer, scuffing before topcoating, and have had great results. Rustoleum makes a Multi-colored texture finish that really tough and adds a lot of grip to the riser...if you like to shoot without the factory grip. On most of mine I prefer that to the plastic grips.
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From: fdp
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Date: 03-Jun-16 |
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Go to a good paint store, Sherwin Williams or whatever is close. There are at least 1/2 a dozen different primers out there that are made just for the purpose of painting those materials.
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