I bought a used morrison cheyenne recently and didn't have a chance to string it until today.

It came with antler limb bolts, and the first thing I noticed was that when fully tightened you could see daylight between the riser and limb, with enough of a gap to slide a piece or two of paper. there was also the slightest bit of play with the limb, because of that gap. and yes the gasket material between the limb and riser was in place.

for possible fixes I thought a second or thicker washer could take up that space or perhaps a bolt on quiver - although I don't want to go that route.

But then I noticed with the limbs off and the bolts screwed into the riser almost all the way there is a little bit of side to side play with the bolts as if they aren't the correct thread pattern. When tightened completely the bolts no longer wiggle.

Is this typical or do I have incorrect limb bolts?

I have contacted Morrison about it, but I am interested in hearing what you folks have to say in the meantime. it has been a good 15 years since I have shot an arrow and I'm dying to do so but last thing I want to do is damage this beautiful bow.

Used.Probably cross threaded at one time.Probably can clean out the threads with a tap.

I'd say 4nolz is right, but when all else fails ask the guy that built it.

And-are you sure Morrison made the knobs?

This really does fit into the category of an issue we cannot provide a solution for without being there...I would guess that you will end up needing to send the bow to Bob for a fix...just one of the risks you take buying a used bow if you do not know its history

DDave

I'm starting to think they are not morrison made knobs. Is there any way to tell?

I know the answer - what ever Bob told you.

Bowmania

I don't think Morrison has ever built knobs for his limb bolts. I'm guessing made by someone else and may be a different thread.

Put a nut on the bolt and leave about a half inch of thread showing. Grind about a 1/32" off the ends of the bolts. Remove the nut and put your bow back together.

Jim, are you figuring that the bolts are just a hair too long? That was my thought.

Wrong thread wouldn't screw in at all. Somebody may have re-tapped the holes, which can create a loose fit.

The easiest way to tell if the bolts are too long is, screw them all the way in without the limbs in place, measure the gap, then measure the limb thickness. If the gap is greater than the limb then they are too long. Bob

If the gap is in the end of riser and limb then it would be correct if it's further down towards the Limb bolt then its incorrect,then try new limbbolts you might have to retap thread holes

If you can blow up pic you will see gap towards end of riser

If you can blow up pic you will see gap towards end of riser

Here is the Cheyenne unstrung

Here is the Cheyenne unstrung

Sorry about double posts

You may have limbs and a riser that weren't built at the same time. Perhaps someone had the riser and bought the limbs used, later on. Is the gap there after you string it?

If the screws are tight when they are fastened all the way, I doubt there is much to worry about.

Looks like a Shawnee riser to me.

If the limbs fit tightly where the bolts are Deadringer might be on to something. If you are concerned about having the proper thread on the bolts wait to hear from Morrison to get the thread size for the bushing. Do the bolts seem to turn smoothly when you install and remove them? If they are cross threaded you should feel that. Take the bolts to the hardware store and gave them put a thread gauge to them to determine the thread and compare that to what Morrison says they should be. You can usually clean up a cross thread situation with the correct size tap or thread chaser. Again I would wait to hear from Morrison before I did anything to correct it. Almost forgot. You said you can wiggle the bolt until it's completely tightened. Are you sure it's not the bushing that's loose?

I will answer one of your questions. Yes a little bit of side to side play in a threaded insert without any pressure on the threads is normal in most threaded holes. Once tightened down or an opposing pressure on the threads it should be tight and no wiggle. The limb gap is probably what was mentioned previously. Probably replacement limbs that were not fit to the original riser.

That is a Shawnee riser and if you lay a straight edge along the limb bed on the riser, you will see that it is ever so slightly beveled the last inch or so. In short, the riser is built that way. Don't know why Bob designed it that way, perhaps to give the limbs a title more room to move at full draw. Regardless, if the limb is tight to the riser at the bolt, there's nothing wrong.

Would have been easier to diagnose your issue had you correctly identified the riser to begin with.

I think Deadringer nailed it.

BTW if the seller wasn't the original owner he may not have known or even noticed.

When you string it does the gap close up? I owned a Cheyenne in 2007? and was told the gap was normal and by design. It helps with limb pre-load..Pretty sure Kirk also does this on some of his bows..My ILF limbs also bend in the wedge and the gap closes when strung..Maybe Bob will come on and let us know for sure..

It does appear to be a Shawnee riser not a Cheyanne ? On a Shawnee the limb bolts come in from the belly , I have never seen antler bolts on a Shawnee and can't see them in these pictures ?

Bob got back to me and it sounds like the bolts that came with the bow are not original as they are indeed almost an eighth of and inch too long and bottoming out in the riser before fully securing the limb. I imagine these were for use with a bolt on quiver.

Thanks for all the replies and insight everyone!

Orion is correct My Shawnee is the same with a little space in both sets of my limbs they are designed that way.

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