From: Partagas
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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I just picked up a pearson renegade for a good price. It has a gouge along the edge of the limb with some of the glass missing. It is about an inch long and 1/16-1/8" wide right along the edge.
Is this repairable with the loctite 420 special or epoxy? I've looked at various threads here but they are more on crack repair.
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From: Partagas
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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2nd pic. This is on the front of the limb not the belly.
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From: jaz5833
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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I have a repair that is nearly a twin of what you show here. Mine is on a spectacular Harry Drake recurve. OSR144 has promised to do a tutorial on this type of repair. He claims it will hold tight. I am waiting for him to post on the subject.
Maybe a shout out from you via PM will motivate him. :-)
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From: Ben
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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I looked at that when it was posted on the auction site. I had a Renegade that I liked a lot. I had another Pearson with a nick on the limb in a similar place that blew up on me so I was reluctant to bid on it. I hope you are able to fix it and get a lot of use out of it they are great bows. I think if I was going to tackle it I would get an opinion from Rich Lopez as he has brought a lot of bows back from the grave.
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From: PaPa Doc
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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If know one else chimes in I would loctite 420 it and then sand it so there is know way a splinter can be picked up.
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From: Partagas
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Date: 03-May-16 |
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Yeah I wondered why I got such a good deal. I didn't notice the gouge when I bid. I thought it was probably repairable so didn't worry too much. Then I saw some threads here exercising caution so it made me worry.
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From: Partagas
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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To the top for hopefully more suggestions.
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From: kodiaklectomy
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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Hi,
If it is in the working part of the limb and the bow is heavier than 45#...you may have a potential headbanger there..However.... if it where me I would sand the spintered edges smooth/feather them and Loctite it.
Lightweight bows you can get away with more. Good luck.
Rich Lopez
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From: Partagas
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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Thanks Rich.it starts right at the end of the fade out if my terminology is correct. Basically where the core riser wood is down to a thin line or nothing as it transitions to the limb.
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From: Partagas
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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What do you mean trap the back?
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From: Catskills
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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Would you perhaps want to loctite it before you sanded so you got complete penetration without dust getting in there ?
Just asking, I speak as a cabinet guy not a bowyer !
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 04-May-16 |
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Trap it (bevel).Sand it out at an angle and match the opposite side to it.
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