Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


All-Natural vs. Glass Composite?

Messages posted to thread:
GF 03-Feb-16
dean 03-Feb-16
George D. Stout 03-Feb-16
fdp 03-Feb-16
Orion 03-Feb-16
Jeff Durnell 03-Feb-16
NickG 03-Feb-16
4nolz@work 03-Feb-16
George D. Stout 03-Feb-16
GF 04-Feb-16
badger 04-Feb-16
GF 04-Feb-16
fdp 04-Feb-16
PEARL DRUMS 04-Feb-16
badger 04-Feb-16
GF 04-Feb-16
From: GF
Date: 03-Feb-16




Seeking knowledge!

For those who've shot them and or built them: how do the two compare?

Just to keep things a HAIR simpler, let's assume that we're discussing a reflex-deflex longbow in the 62"-68" range; basically a modern design. And assume typical draw length and 9-10 GPP.

What kinds of differences would you expect to see in terms of hand-shock, speed, min/max GPP parameters and - maybe most important to someone like me - the longevity of the bow itself? For example, would you be harming a wood/horn limb by leaving it strung all day long on a hunt? Would it hold up to being shot a few hundred times a week, or would you be wearing it out?

Any other considerations?

Thanks, gents!

From: dean
Date: 03-Feb-16




I have made and shot a few all bamboo bows, all string follows. While I am sure they will do the job and are sweet to shoot, the cast difference between them and my Robertson R/D bows is not very comparable. On the other side, my robertson do not have hand shock and are sweet shooting as well, just a good bit quicker.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 03-Feb-16




However, if you take a good bamboo backed osage, deflex/reflex bow, I believe you will lose little to the glass composites. I've owned several that performed very well. You can't compare string-follow bows to deflex/reflex composites whether they are glass backed or natural. Like designs generally perform alike, given the same limb length/tapers, etc. I hope Badger comes into this since I believe they did a lot of testing of self and natural backed bows.

From: fdp
Date: 03-Feb-16




That's pretty complicated subject believe it or not. My experience, as well as that of many others more experienced than I, shows that if you take 2 bows with the same front view, side view, and strung profile, and the same draw weight, the difference is trivial to non existent.

Now, I DO think that natural material bow performance is more related to quality workmanship, simply because they can't be "pre made". In other words you can't build them simply applying a mathematical formula to stack height, and glass to wood ratio.

From: Orion Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 03-Feb-16




It takes a very well made and designed all wood bow to shoot with a glass laminated bow, and their durability just isn't as good, IMO. A longer all wood bow tends to become physically heavier vis-a-vis a glass laminated bow, which tends to increase hand shock and reduce performance. If you want more performance and durability, a glass laminated bow is the way to bet. Not saying an all wood bow won't match it, but it will be the exception rather than the rule.

From: Jeff Durnell Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 03-Feb-16




I disagree. Glass is heavy.

My all wooden bows don't have any more handshock than glass bows of like design.

I make many sorts... self, backed various ways, all natural composites, glass and wood composites, etc.

I once made 3 bows of equal draw weight, 70# @ 28". All three had the same front and side profiles(equal amounts of delfex/reflex), and trapped cross section. All shot the same 9 g.p.p. arrows.

Bow #1 was a glass and hard maple laminated bow with glass and hardwood overlays.

Bow #2 was a bamboo backed osage bow with horn tips.

Bow #3 was a bamboo backed yew bow with horn tips.

I shot them for distance since I don't have a chronograph. Bow #2 out shot bow #1 by just a couple yards.

Bow #3, the bamboo/yew bow out shot the other two by about 10 yards.

What's it mean? To me just that bows of all natural materials aren't necessarily the handicap many think they are... and I have repeatedly found boo/yew to be a good combo. Durability? Not a problem if they're not neglected or abused.

Those bamboo backed bows were backed one piece cores. I'd like to put some of the trilams I'm making now up against those glass bows. Perhaps a bamboo/cedar/yew bow? Or a bamboo/cherry/yew bow? I might have to do that this summer if I get time. Who knows, maybe I'll glue one or two up this weekend ;^)

From: NickG
Date: 03-Feb-16




I just got a David Miller "Hawk" concave/convex bamboo longbow, no glass. It gives up very little,if any at all, performance to my glassed ASLs. I've been told that there is a noticeable difference in performance between a c/c constructed bow and a regular split bamboo

From: 4nolz@work
Date: 03-Feb-16




I started making my own bows around 15-16 years ago.At the time I had made some selfbows then made glass lam longbows- there was NO comparison! THEN I got a saluki granduer all bamboo RD longbow in a trade and couldn't believe it! It easily shot as good as my glass bows with just a dull thump and silence! So I guess what I'm saying is it depends on the bowyers skill!

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 03-Feb-16




I had a bamboo backed osage by Chuck Jones (I hope I got the name right). I traded a fellow a recurve for it a good many years back. That thing was very fast and I can't imagine it not doing as well as a similarly designed glass backed model. I also had one of Bobby Lofton's BBO bows and it was very good as well. That one I regret selling.

From: GF
Date: 04-Feb-16




Wow.. I just went over and took a look at the Saluki page.

I had only seen one Saluki before - a T/D longbow which was unlike anything on the site right now. But it was quiet, shot hard, and the lady who owned it was no slouch!

From: badger
Date: 04-Feb-16




For comparison we have a broadhead flight competition where we shoot hunting weight arrows with broadheads. The record for the 50# modern American longbow is 233 yards, my record with a 50# simple composite bow is 231 yards. The modern bow uses an arrow that is 50 grains heavier but uses a fast flight skinny string. The primitive bow uses a heavy linen string which equals things out. Not much difference. My self bow record is about 10 yards shorter at 221.

Overall I would have to say a composite bow will hold up better over time in most cases. I don't experience any difference at the end of the day after being braced for several hours but if I were to leave the bow braced for a year I would certainly see a difference. I think on the average a modern bow will have about a 10% advantage over self bows and less than 5% advantage over backed primitive bows but a carefully made bow will almost close that gap.

From: GF
Date: 04-Feb-16




Speaking of strings... I'm going to guess that a horn-backed bow would not exactly be FF-compatible! (Not that flight-shooting is particularly gentle on a bow either, I'd imagine..).

What kind of string does an all-natural bow like? Linen, I suppose is period-correct and was doubtless used for good reason, but are there suitable "modern" materials??

From: fdp
Date: 04-Feb-16




It really depends on how the bow is made GF. Linen string is low stretch also.

From: PEARL DRUMS
Date: 04-Feb-16




Interesting blend of responses. Most know what side I lean towards. It's all about the bowyer, glass or wood.

I use skinny strings on every bow I build, self or wood laminates. No/low stretch is the best string for any bow.

From: badger
Date: 04-Feb-16




I like the feel and look of linen but the relaibility of fastflight type modern strings. For my personnal shooting bows I blend in 4 strands of fast flight with 6 strands of linen. Not too fat or skinny but feels good on my fingers and looks more natural. I wouldn't trust linen on a hunting trip for example because they sometimes break with no warning.

From: GF
Date: 04-Feb-16




No warning? You're just not paying attention, brother!

Just so you know what to look for, it's usually a 7X8 bull Elk with butt-scratcher main beams and dog-catchers of the type that prevent the animal from eating anything growing lower than about 16" off the ground! One glimpse of something like that, and your string is done for.





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