From: styks n stryngs
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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So heres what i have: A recurve with no rest or plate Sticky back felt Suede leather plate/rest Rubber cement
Should i go with gluing the leather on with elmers rubber cement, or would that not hold very well? Any experience with Either would be good.
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From: Orion
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I've used all kinds of leathers, seal skin, calf skin, etc. I've affixed those with barge cement/contact cement. My current preference is velcro for both the shelf and side plate. You can get different thicknesses at fabric stores, and they come with a self- adhesive back. Just cut and paste. Long lasting, quiet and easy to remove as well.
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From: camodave
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I have used quite a few things...bottom line is if it makes sense it will likely work
DDave
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From: GLF
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I use Velcro or a bear shelf rest for the shelf but I like thin leather of some sort for the side plate. A thin side plate leaves the bow loser to center cut thus leaving the bow more tunable to a wider spine of shafts.
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From: woodshavins
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I love Pararests. They are simple, durable and provide a nice clean release.
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From: Pdiddly
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I agree with GLF. I prefer a thin leather side plate. I scavenge old wallets for the leather.
I use Wooster 1/4" paint roller mohair or seal fur (welcome to Canada) for the rest. I glue both on with contact cement...I buy the can with the built in brush.
Lightly sand the contact area a bit if it's glossy...i use a narrow strip of fine sandpaper over my finger tip to stay within the lines of the side plate.
Here's what some of mine look like...I like the arrowhead shaped side plate...white is the mohair...some are seal. Velcro works well too.
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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Stick on rests for me..Hoyt Super Rest, or other similar. Whatever you like will most likely work. Use contact cement for easy removal later. You can buy a 4 oz bottle of DAP Contact cement at Walmart for less than $5.00.
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From: Ranman
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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DAP works great, holds well, and easy removal. I use velcro rest, and calf or seal side plate.. Randy
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From: Stumpkiller
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Date: 28-Nov-15 |
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I like a really good two-sided tape and glove leather with a paper match under it for the riser and a bit of Gramdma's seal fur coat for the shelf. If it's not radiused I round a popsicle stick and make a hump under the fur abve the deepedt part of the grip.
The two-sided tape I use is not the foam center - but a product called "Parma Pro". It's clear, waterproof, and can (eventually) be pushed off with your thumb.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMRA9&P=ML
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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I use the Pararest ( brush) as well on my recurves. I use the precut Velcro type rests from BW or 3Rivers if I need to shoot off the shelf. Thin leather on my LB. I was using double sided carpet tape to stick stuff on. Now using 3M outdoor mounting tape, other stuff became gooey in our 100+ temps.
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From: Codjigger
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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I use seal skin on my rests with a little leather piece under it at the high point. If there is anything with less friction than seal, I don't know what it is. One day I intend toput a few arrows through a chrono with leather and then seal on the rest just to see if there is any difference in arrow speed, also a seal tab vs a leather tab..not that it matters much.. ..just curious! Sandy
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From: dean
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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I use E6000 like contact cement, easier than popping open a can of contact cement for deer shin rests. One to avoid with heavy narrow carbon arrows is the feather rests with the stack of vertical feathers. However, with fatter and lighter wood arrows they are my favorite. The velcro self sticking felt is probably better than deer hide, but I do find the need to put on fresh every so often, which is easier than changing leather by a wide margin. Some like to have the arrow closer to the finger, then use a glue on or stick on pad. If that is not an issue and the bow is cut to center, the Hoyt gives a sturdy and yet very forgiving launch platform.
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From: MStyles
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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I prefer the Para-Brush rest from St Charles Archery, but I also like the Bear elevated rest or the Geo. Stout rest cut from the plastic retail merchandiser strips. My all-time favorite is the Saunders Whisper Rest that was OE on the Browning recurves. I bought an old Herter's backquiver made out of Cordovan some years ago an have cut it up for tabs, armguards, and rest/sideplates. The Cordovan doesn't really wear, and zero stretch.
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From: Oldbow
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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Rotate your nocks or they will catch the side of the sight window as they leave the bow. If you use factory made arrows, that is.
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From: Old_Bear
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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Ok guys I'm going to ask a dumb question. Which piece of the Velcro do you mount on the bow.....the piece that looks like moleskin or the piece with the "raised fingers".
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From: MStyles
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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The smooth one.
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From: MStyles
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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The smooth one.
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From: Rooty
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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Seal with barge comment
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From: Babysaph
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Date: 29-Nov-15 |
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Bear weatherest.
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From: Jon Stewart
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Date: 30-Nov-15 |
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I use two sided tape from a company called Intertape out of Florida. It is thin and holds real good and easy to get off when you change rests or side plates.
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From: 2nocks
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Date: 30-Nov-15 |
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bear weather rest for me as well.
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From: 2nocks
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Date: 30-Nov-15 |
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bear weather rest for me as well.
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From: stagetek
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Date: 30-Nov-15 |
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Bear hair rests on all of mine.
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From: falcon
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Date: 30-Nov-15 |
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feather rest or seal skin, make my own feather rest out of fletching, a nice guy gave me sealskin a few years back that I use sometime I think it came from a pair of boots he cut up. It has become very hard to get now. Side plates I use leather and barge cement.
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