From: Missedagain
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Date: 10-Oct-15 |
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I have about 150 fletched wood arrows spined 60 to 65 lbs. I'm now shooting 50 lb bows. Is there a practical way to lower the spine weight on these arrows?
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From: Osr144
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Date: 10-Oct-15 |
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If they weren't fletched than yes .I make my own shafts and to get the correct spine I often need to taper them to reduce spine.Normally 11/32" down to 5/16 .If my shafts are turning out too weak I barrel them 11/32 " to 3/8 " in the middle and down to 5/16. ".If you wanted to de fletch them than you could put them in an electric drill and taper the shaft with sand paper wrapped around the shaft .Sand a taper at slow speed .Depending on the length you may be lucky to get away with heavier points.The arrows would need to be significantly longer to do that though.You could maybe do a swap and trade deal with a fellow Waller. OSR
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From: aromakr
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Date: 10-Oct-15 |
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You may not need to lower the spine, depending on the depth of the bows shelf. If its cut too center or past, I would try them as is. One thing you didn't mention is how long are the arrows? Remember if they are longer than 28" the arrows spine will be 5# lighter for every inch longer than 28". And I'm going to disagree with Osr144, tapering doesn't reduce spine enough, a pound or so at most. And arrows don't need to be (significantly longer) to use heavier points to reduce spine.
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From: Osr144
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Date: 10-Oct-15 |
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Arromakr You are partially correct but tapering shafts will lessen spine a fair bit and it varies with what specie of wood is used too. If you find this to be wrong than I am able to reduce spine in Douglas fir by as much as 5 pound s at times normalIy I only need I or 2 pounds.That length issue is had me wondering too and I ment only a few inches at most.I have tapered or barrelled arrows for years to get exceptable spine.I have been hand making arrow shafts since I was 10 years old in 1970. I learn't this the hard way trial and error.It serves me well as I have plenty of split knocks to know my arrows are fairly consistent . OSR
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From: RymanCat
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Date: 10-Oct-15 |
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Before you consider anything why not just try shooting them out of the next bow before you say they are under spined I shoot 60-65 out of 50 pound bows and they like them better than 50-55 I'd say.
You may be surprised.
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 11-Oct-15 |
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I've done it.
Wrap some sandpaper around the middle and move the arrow through it.
Remember sanding the middle has a greater impact on lowering spine while sanding the ends controls grain weight without too much influence on spine.
Test shoot one arrow frequently and continue sanding.
That is a lot of spine to loose. Watch that you don't lessen the diameter too much in the middle.
Jawge
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 11-Oct-15 |
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I find myself in a similar situation. I have at least four doz. shafts that are at least ten more pounds than I need. After what I have read I think I will sell them even know they are old Acme stock.
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From: Pappy 1
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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AsJawges said,I sand down the middle 2/3 for spine reduction. Pappy
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From: Onehair
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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And add more weight up front
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From: StikBow
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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"plenty of split nocks"-maybe you weakened the shafts too much. 15 pounds is a lot to ask for in a tapering scenario. A couple of pounds for cedar for a normal taper. Full length might get a few more. Never tried it on fir, but 15 pounds???? Work a trde and start over or risk being frustrated.
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From: dean
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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I sand arrows to reduce weight quite often, it also happens that the heaviest shafts in a dozen are also the stiffest. I have never reduced a shaft more than ten grains and have only ever seen a pound or two in spine reduction for the amount of sanding that I have done.
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From: Tom Baldwin
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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I have found 60-65# cedars shoot fine out of some 50# bows, especially the better performers with deeper sight windows. I typically use heads between 200 and 250 grains, however.
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From: bradsmith2010
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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I shoot my 60 65 from my wood bow 50 ish,, not center cut,,,, they shoot fine,, I do use 145 field point,, as suggested you should try them and see,,use a heavier point if necessary,, will save you alot of work,,,, I bet you are not that far off,,
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From: Onehair
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Date: 12-Oct-15 |
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Just to get the best answer I have some 78# 11/32 cedars, too heavy for anything I shoot. I started tapering the first 12" to 5/16 with not much change. I increased the taper until I got to 24" using a 1" plane followed by a good sanding by chucking the shaft in a drill and using 2 sponge sanding blocks to perfection. 60# each. About 10 minutes each but all 4 test shafts are spined identical.
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From: Osr144
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Date: 14-Oct-15 |
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yeah I get good groups from consistant arrow spine there for its is not uncommon to damage knocks from time to time.The sanding works as others and I have said.George's method works well and there would be no need to remove feathers either.I would suppose you would need to experience this by making thousands of shafts by hand to know it works. OSR
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