From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Is there a way to get a leather grip off, without messing it up and reglue it back on after a refinished job? JF
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Jeff, maybe. It depends on what it was glued on with and what kind of leather it is.
I use 3M spray adhesive or contact cement and while they hold it perfectly in place, if the stitches are cut, generally the leather can be carefully peeled off and just reglued and restitched following the refinish. On bows with solvent-impervious finishes like Fullerplast and Thunderbird, I have used solvents to aid in removal of leather from the grips... i.e. cut the stitches, get it started, and use a Q-tip to apply solvent to the glue where the leather and bow meet to soften/disolve the glue while I slowwwwwly peel it away.
Sometimes, afterwards, I'll remove any glue remnants from the bow with solvents... presuming the bow's finish is impervious. If not, I'll just leave it on there.
Non-stretchy leathers like cow or pig can be removed without their shape being distorted... i.e. stretched to bigger size. But while working with more stretchy leathers like goat or deer, more care should be taken, and they MIGHT need a slight trimming before being readhered... sometimes not... again, depends on the individual piece of skin and the glue.
Got any pics of your concerned piece? Is it a classic and you want to maintain its authenticity?
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Yea Jeff D. Its a classic ,58 Kodiak Special.the bow needs a new finish. Everything else is good. I've tried tape to protect when sanding and spraying. That resulted in a thin smooth layer coming off with the tape. I did find where a guy on here used boiling water and a potholder. Soaked the potholder and then wrapped it around the leather to soften and carefully peel it off. Worked for him.JF
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From: Knifeguy
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Jeff, The boiling water trick will work to an extent, but it can also stretch the leather some. I've used goo gone and Avon's skin so soft to help remove the glue. just work slowly and you should be alright. Another trick would be to carefully use a razor blade and follow the contour of the over wrap and cut through it all down to the wood. Then use the goo gone or s.s.s. with a q-tip and work it off. When you glue it back on, use Barge cement and lightly stretch it back to size and realign the cut. Lance.
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Jeff, I'd just peel that sucker off there like I said above. Refinish, and if warranted, put a new piece of leather on it for a grip, shelf, strike plate too. Heck, you already refinished it, right? Might as well put a new leather mini on her to compliment the makeup :^) I'd match the leather process, color, and cut/stitch as much as possible, but wouldn't be any more ashamed of a new piece of leather than I was a flawless new finish.
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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To add... if I WAS concerned about authenticity, I wouldn't refinish/regrip at all.
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Well, I'm gonna try the hot soak. JF
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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After 45min of soaking and adding Hot water to the material. I started pushing the leather off, with a wood scraper. So far so good. Keep getting it hot with water. JF
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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Well shot, it was going pretty good. Until I probably pushed it to fast and it tore. Oh well the grip leather wasn't That great. Now I'll just try and find a good color match if I can. A new leather grip will look better with a refinish. So if your bow isn't real ruff leave it alone, if you want to keep the original leather grip. This bow was on the edge of do or dont. So I will make a complete restoration. JF
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 06-Oct-15 |
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After I got the rest of the leather off this is what I found. What do all these numbers mean? JF
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