I recently traded into this old Super Kodiak. First real time shooting it I brought out some old 2216 I fletched up. I could not get them to shoot good in any of the other bows I have but this SK likes them. I'm no Jeffer but I'll take this.

What was the yardage you shot from? A curious Cajun would like to know.

Jon that bow is gorgeous! That's a dead deer by any standard too. What is it, around 55 - 60 lbs?

18 yards 45lb bow but add a couple for my 29" draw

I still prefer aluminum...more so when I see photos of a shattered carbon arrow sticking through some guy's arm...nasty!!!

I've been seriously considering going back to aluminum since I have dropped down some in draw weight.

Rick

Al, carbon or wood if it shoots straight I'd use it. These have been laying around for years and I'm glad I can put them to use now.

Straightness and cost, aluminum ain't dead by a long shot. Or a close one either ;-)

I play around with carbons a lot for 3D, but if I was going on a hunt tomorrow I might well have aluminum in the quiver. The word 'proven' means a lot.

I mainly shoot wood these days, but they are so much more work

Aluninum are so easy to assemble and they are better than carbons for me, sure a few get bent stumping (but usually my fault)

extreamly easy to tune and can't beat their consistancy

I agree with Andy Man. If the aluminum is only bent and not kinked, by being careful , it can be straightened and is quite useable.

Funny, so have I! :)

You all should know that I shoot aluminum...easy to tune, plenty durable, ultra consistent 360 degrees around the shaft. There are no down sides to them that I have found in near 50 years of using them. Maybe if you are a terrible shot you could use something more durable.. Whatever works for you, but I'll keep my AL arrows. I've seen many a perfect round shot with them also...hard to go wrong.

Aluminum or wood....don't use anything else any more.

You all should know that I shoot aluminum...easy to tune, plenty durable, ultra consistent 360 degrees around the shaft. There are no down sides to them that I have found in near 50 years of using them. Maybe if you are a terrible shot you could use something more durable.. Whatever works for you, but I'll keep my AL arrows. I've seen many a perfect round shot with them also...hard to go wrong.

!

It does indeed, all you need to know is how to get it to do that.

I have a closet full of alum shafts and arrows made up. But I also have a second closet getting full of carbons and woods. I am using mostly alum as I am trying to cut down on my accumulation. Of the three materials alum is also easy to tune for me. I have had to give away the heavy spined shafts or used some as footings for carbons.

A carbon arrow sleeved with aluminum for the first 1.5 inches or so makes a good stumping arrow. See CMF-3's photo above. Try it with a judo point also.

I have a lifetime supply of 1918 and 1920 shafts. Finest hunting shafts going, and discontinued years ago.

What size Al arrow to foot my GT 400 arrows?

I shot that SK again yesterday and it keeps getting better.

Calculate the outside diameter of your GT 400, then calculate the inside diameter of an aluminum arrow to find a fit. Someone will likely post a chart...I have seen them here before. But math is your friend also. Convert 64th's to thousanths in the aluminum shafts to calculate I.D.

I can read a mic and a caliper so measuring my GT trads in thousandths won't be a problem but I have long forgot to covert al shafts. First two numbers are the diameter and the last two the thickness if I remember correctly

Divide the first two by the second two and you convert the diameter to thousandths of an inch. So here is what you get with a 2016 for instance. 20/64ths diameter, .016 wall thickness. Divide 20 by 64 and you get....3125 or .313 as a shaft diameter.

To find inside diameter you have to subtract the wall thickness...016 two times since it surrounds the shaft. So .032 from .313 equals .281 inside diameter of the 2016. You could also just measure the outside diameter of the converta bushing or target point that goes into the shaft.

Here's the chart for the math challenged among us. 8^).

I prefer the aluminums as well. I shoot some carbons, but aluminum arrows are my favorites. Talk about cost effective, the XX75 Tribute shafts can be purchased for less than $3 each from Lancasters and they are very good shafts.

Wildhog is right. To me, putting aluminum over carbon as a footing creates a bump that I have to pull over the rest. Even if subtle I can feel it. And, I don't want my arrows so dang long that the bump doesn't reach the bow. I'm thinking of taking some small diameter carbon to make interior footings for my aluminum stumping shafts.

Thanks George

Jon, this post has got me motivated to go play with a box of never-shot 2512 Autumn Orange XX75's I've kept around. I've got a few recurves that they might play nicely with.

I've been shooting this combo so well I'd like to hunt with it. I need to find an old spring arm quiver for this SK

hunterjrg, watch Ebay...they are on there frequently. Here's a spring arm that's on there now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Arrow-Bear-Clip-on-Quiver-/121746286469? hash=item1c58a4e785

I have thanked Doug EAston many times in my mind after a good group or a recovered animal.

I occasionally still use aluminum, but I have 50 to 100 unused 2216 in the closet collecting dust. They shoot good and will get the job done, but are dinosaurs when compared with the skinny thick walled carbons like the Axxis. Just my choice, of course.

Much prefer my beer from the bottle:)

tradmt, I think most of the bends on aluminum come right behind the insert so I figured another two inches of shaft...light carbon would only add less than 20 grains, and would mostly be ahead of the paradox. Worst case scenario would be I may have to increase the tip weight just a tad.

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