I'm doing A complete refinish of this beautiful Safari II 60" 49#@28 Browning and was wondering if I might run into any problems when you see the picture enclosed. I've shoot it and love it! They sure put a lot of shellac on these.

There's no shellac on that bow, its covered in a two part epoxy finish. Similar to Fullerplas Bob

Browning laid it on thick on most of their bows. There are some good refinishing threads in the search engine.

Browning had some beautiful finishes on their bows. I haven't seen one that needed much to bring it right back. Was it cracking or crazing?

Bownuts,

Just POLISHED a Browning Olympian (1963ish) that didn't need a refinish because, like the guys above said, Browning did a FINE job with their bow finishes! You sure yours needs a complete make over? Also, not sure if you had a specific question...

CR

If you remove the old finish you may want to work around and save the silkscreens. You can recreate the writing if you need to but you probably won't find any aftermarket Browning decals.

In olny a few areas on the bow, the picture shows an obvious discoloration. Did moisture get beneath the apoxy? A small strip crumbled down to the glass with fingernail. Hell, I'd never put the time into a refinish if it could do without. It also has sight holes to deal with & plug. I thought decals were readily avail. Real pain trying to save those. I don't need another "keeper"..... Although, it did shoot really nice in comparison with my go-to Kodiak Hunter near the same weight.

Every square inch was painted camo except last pic with specs....which caused more discoloration only in the wood area. Multiple issues........ Paul

Protect the decals and completely remove the finish. Then you will have to sand the wood enough to bring out the color and make it even. I would write down the numbers and go ahead and sand them off. Easy to redo them with gold acrylic like Speedball makes and a medium fine pen. I have been there and done this many times with old bows and you are into a major job. There is no easy out but when done the bow will be worth it. As to the hole you can fill level with epoxy and then paint over with thin layers of burnt umber acrylic or fine oil paint. lightly sand and repeat until flush. when finished right it will disappear completely.

God bless, Steve

Sorry. That fading is under glass and not a single thing you can do about it. I just went back and did a review of the pics and without painting the limbs brown there is no remedy. However if you were to carefully mask the decals you can use some dark brown rustoleum and paint the limbs and then finish over them. Done right it will look great and last a long time. As far as I can see that would be your only remedy.

God bless, Steve

I meant in the glass, not under. I would be using 320 wet and dry and seeing if you can evenly sand the light and dark the same until the light area hits dark glass It probably will not be very deep. I sand using a heavy rubber eraser for a sanding block and that keeps you even. Turned sideways they will go clear across the limb and you sand with long even strokes, same number on each side. You might lose a couple of lbs but since you are going to re write poundage it won't do any harm./ Key here is to sand evenly and double check the tiller on a regular basis as you do it. You should not sand just the light areas but dark too so the power is evenly distributed. God bless, Steve

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