I shoot a 51# recurve. 125 grain point. So I did some research and came up with 60-65 spine POC. I Tried to bare shaft tune and they were so weak one snapped off at the target. Very frustrating. So after cutting a 1/4 inch at time until they were at the absolute shortest I could draw they were still to weak. So I'm done wasting money on wood arrows. Thanks just needed to vent.

I don't bareshaft woods for that very reason

Woods are for those who love woods your issues make no sence or reasons. Your either a wood person or your not. 55-60's is what you need that should shoot very well. Most of us use them with no issues like to state is wrong with them.

I don't bare shaft any arrows, Perioud. Wood, aluminum or carbon or fiberglass nothing matters.

RC you missed my point. They are still to weak, the damn things still fly side ways even after I fletched them.

i shoot carbons quite well, I was hopeing to start shooting wood so I could shoot in some other IBO classes.

Crimson do you know how the shelf is cut on this recurve? To center, past center, or before center? What is the make and model of the bow? FF string? These factor in to what spine it will shoot well.

I love the look of wood But have had no luck with flight. Im going back to XX75's

For some reason I am thinking maybe they are spined too high. What type of wood. And how far from your target are you.? Myself, I shoot 2016 Easton Al just because they are straight, stay straight and I can refletch them over and over again. But I have never had problem with POC (cedar). Skeet

Hmmm. Wood is probably the most forgiving shaft material there is. You obviously have the wrong spine for your set up, or you have terrible form, or both. Don't blame the material. The fault lies elsewhere.

I just ordered 2 dozen surewood tapered shafts about 30 seconds ago. They fly much better for me than carbon or AL. You can order a test set of multiple spine weights, and tapered doug fir is an excellent arrow.

So, as you were cutting them shorter and shorter.... Were they flying any better, or just worse?

I have no doubt your week. My #51 recurve likes 80-85

And I bare shaft ALL of my arrows, can never get tuned correctly if you do not. Just go to a soft backstop like sand, never into a target. Once they are right, the are far more forgiving of form.

Should have called Paul jalon he would have sent you a test kit. I prefer carbons just because they are so much more durable and hence cheaper. On day I'm going to marry a very rich 90 year old women. Then I'm switching to woods for good.

have arrow maker make you some. they will fly true if not its not the arrow. did you have the grain running the right way?

#60-65 works perfect from my #50-55 bows. 125gr points, 29.5" long. And yes, if I bareshaft them, they show very weak. Put fletching on and a wide two blade flies perfectly. Sometimes we get too caught up in the minutiae;-)

She's a 51# robertson cut past center. FF string. I have pretty solid form. I've been shooting target and animal rounds for quite awhile with a few titles to my name I just can't get wood to fly well. Just usually ends up being a waist of money. Thanks for all your comments and advice.

I got tired of breaking woodies so I shoot carbons 95% of the time......love 'em. Sometimes I shoot cane arrows......they're terrific too.

Cut past center. If your draw is at all greater than 28" and throw in a low stretch string, you really will need much higher spined shafts. Remember, these spines are based on 26" centers, Dacron strings and bows cut 1/16"-1/8 left of center with strike plate.

These discussions always leave me scratching my bald head. I shoot the same wooden arrows in all my 40 to 45# self bows and my 50# Bear Polar. I make the shafts and don't even spine test or weigh them anymore and they all fly just fine.

I think that when arrows don't fly well it's often a matter of the shooter gripping the handle tightly or supporting it wrong.

BTW, if you hate the thought of having wood shafts around, you can send them to me and you won't have to look at them anymore.

First...if you're going to bare shaft wooden arrows, and you can, get a backstop just for that purpose. I followed Dan Quillian's advice, and I use a big piece of upholstery foam like is in a couch cushion.

Next, get some GOOD wooden arrows. Arrows that are spined and matched correctly. Then, start shooting them. The truth is that if you find an aluminum arrow of a particular spine, that shoot's well from the bow, you should EASILY be able to replicate that same flight with a wooden shaft.

If you take .550 spined aluminum for example and it shoots well, a .550 spined woodie should shoot the same. WITH THE EXCEPTION, that you may have to adjust brace, or strike plate thickness if there is a difference in diameter.

What length arrow are you shooting, and do you have a higher performace or traditional material string on the bow?

nothing we due is easy, but half the fun for me is the learning, what makes us angry makes us better. It is possible the arrows are not marked correctly, and I never bare shaft anything either

The one question no one has asked is your draw length? If your draw length is 28" BOP or more by our research was faulty. 65-69 and 70-74# spine would have been better choices and it doesn't surprise when others say they need 30# more spine than their bow weight when bareshafting.

There is a reason why every arrow has fletching so why not start there first like millions have done for centuries. The idea that there is only one perfect bow/arrow/archer combination is totally a false premise.

I shoot 64-66 pound bows and don't bares at ever due to arrow damage they fly great with feathers.

The only thing i would say is to find someone close to you that shoots and builds woodies and see if they can help you. Thats what i did and it was a huge help. Im on my 3rd year of traditional archery and the past 1 1/2 yrs i've only shot wood arrows and have no problems tuning them. I also do not bare shaft tune always fletch the shafts. I shoot tapered POC 55/60 shafts out of my 2 50# recurves and 6 of my longbows that range 46-52# and they are the same shafts and tapered POC 60/65 shafts out of my 2 55# longbows. What type string material, how the shelf is cut, your draw length all play into what spine shafts you will use. Dont give up on wood if you would still like to try them, with some help and getting them tuned right you will see why us woodie shooters love shooting them. Oh, nothing smells better then a broken cedar arrow!!!

The way I like to bare shaft wood arrows Is to get a big nasty 2 blade. Fletch it with small fletching (3 inch or so) then shoot them at 30 yards. When I get good flight I know my set up is tuned. If I am really frisky I just toss my normal 4 inch fletching on there and I am good to go. Also I too learned the hard way not to get just a dozen of what I think will be right but, rather a test kit.

Do you get aluminum or carbon arrows to tune OK with that bow? If so, what spine are they? Like FDP said, if you can get aluminum to tune you should be able to get wood to tune also.

It's not a total loss, my oldest daughter shoots my bow with a 26" draw and the arrows work good for her. So that's good.

I switched to carbon because it is waaaay cheaper. Dozen goldtips last forever if you dont lose em. I also started getting complete pass throughs with the arrow sticking in the ground after going to carbon.....

I here you man! Love wood and nostalgia but everyone I try them it drives me crazy how they lack in durability. If I knew how to straighten them better it would probably help...maybe one day

Wood is not for sissys

DDave

If you want to bare shaft woods, get familiar with Stu's Spine Calculator. Find a carbon or aluminum that you bare shaft well and then check it's dynamic spine and build a wood to match. It will save you a lot of time and shafts.

It sounds to me like they were too stiff to begin with, and cutting them short only made it worse.

Well tuned arrows will help you shoot more consistently, bareshafting is the best way for me. I did it a lot when I shot cedars- like every set I made! Aluminum is much easier- once you find the right length and point weight, you have the recipe and you're done.

Wood grain HAS to be orientated to the side plate. You can't just slap on point and nock on it and go shoot and expect wonderfull flight. Also when it it spine tested, rotating the grain will change the spine.

Wood is not carbon.

Wood is very forgiving, you should be able to shoot a fair range of spine especially with field points, with the shaft cut to your draw. Cutting little bit increments from length just eats up your time. You are giving up on great shaft material because you do not have enough/correct information to come to satisfying conclusion.

You have not given us your draw length or type of bow. with 125 gr point and 28" draw you would need 50-55, change to broadhead then add 5# so 55-60, if your are shooting a longbow not even close to center cut then you need to go lighter in spine.

I'm done with wood too, I started heating with gas last year and it's the first time I've ever had a house where all the rooms get warm.

Thats why most of us wood guys have a lot of differant spines we go up or down to see what flys well out of that bow.

I have a flat bow that was built that likes heavy, heavy, woods. 75 up to 85 and why when the bow is 51 pounds my draw close to 29. I didn't argue just shot them. It gave me a lot of hand shock also and to me was louder than I liked and the heavy arrows quieted and seem to give less hand shock.

If wood arrows weren't durable enough, you weren't using the right kind of wood. There's no way carbons are cheaper than my hickory arrows.

"Wood is not for sissies" bwahaha love it

My 52lb recurve likes 70-75, 31 inch arrow, 28in draw

Are you sure they are 60-65 spine? There may have been a mix up from where you got them. DANNY

I'm sorry wood did not work out for you. Glad they work for your daughter. Enjoy your carbons. Jawge

Let's do this correctly reverse. Crimsonarrow did never tell us what carbon arrow he was shooting out of his bow which flies well. My guess is, that he did not convert to wood spine correctly. Maybe, he would be so kind and give us his good flying carbon arrow: shaft type (important for diameter), spine deflection, arrow length to BOP, point weight.

It's not the wooden arrows that are at issue. It's failure to understand all the dynamics of tuning your bow to your setup. I also have 51# recurve bow...cut at center, and shoot cedar arrows spined at 59# with 125 grain tips perfectly. I don't waste my time bareshafting wood arrows...and it is a waste of time. I know from years of shooting what will work and tune my bow to fit that arrow. Blame the weather, blame the center shot, blame the string, but it's not the arrow material.

By the way, I should add that was with Dacron. With Rhino low stretch, it needs 65-70'ish. That is why tuning to dynamics is so important.

My first arrows in the 70's were wood. Been using carbons since the 80's. I almost tried them again because I too fell for the mystic of it. Then I went to ETAR and every course was littered with broken wooden arrows.

I bought a dozen anyways, they fly fine, they are just not as durable was my carbons and they seem to asorb more energy than carbons. Why do I say this? because my wooden arrows that are the same weight as my carbons do not fly nearly as far.

Wood is fine, just not for me. I prefer carbon.

I keep hearing how much tougher aluminum & carbon are than wood. Go ahead & hit a good tough dead stump head on with an aluminum or carbon shaft & see what happens. I've done it & for the aluminum it'll usually shove the insert back to the blunt & the carbons will splinter like a peeled banana. Wooden arrows on the other hand usually survive quite nicely. If I haven't gotten the taper just right it may shove the point back a bit, but it's still usable. None of them take a glancing hit well. OH yes then there are the nice carbon splinters you get in your hands pulling used carbons out of targets. ugggggg I'm done with aluminum & carbon I gave all mine away.

I'm with Jim, I can find those arrows a home :)

I have found no benefit to bareshafting wood. I have a selection of fletche arrows of varying spine, length and tip wieght that gives me the ability to zero in on a proper set up in very short order. I have been shooting POC for more that a few decades and found they give up little,if anything to wynthetics. IMO.

Ok!! you all are way to sensitive.

So here we go. ........... If you shoot wood its for the pure romance of shooting wood, its not for accuracy. Just admit it. Wood arrows really suck!!! Its like I'm trying to have dialog with a bunch of compound shooters. "Prima-donnas". Now let see where this takes us?

It goes right back to square ONE. There is something out of kilter with your set up. None of us can fix that,only give advise. Do your homework,get some test shafts from 3 Rivers and others and WORK AT IT !!!

YES they are for the romance just like the longbow, selfbows and recurves lol. if I wanted just to shoot good I would use my compound and sights hitting X rings all day. but what fun would that be. get a book on wood arrows 101. and learn about arrow building and spin it will make you a better shooter in the long run. and add some more fun to it. heck 25GR. and a couple twist of a bow string can make a big difference in arrow flight. I have seen a few go buy arrows at big box store full length then screw in what ever tips they have, then call there bow junk because it will not shoot good. it takes time to learn but that's what keeps it fun and interesting. did you build your arrows or buy them ready to shoot ?

Wood arrows are as accurate as other materials. What do you Howard used for his trick shooting?

It's just kinda typical of today's world.....it's not my fault, must be something or somebody else's fault.

Sensitive, Prima-donnas, no....i do shoot wood for the romance, accuracy, and i enjoy building them as well. To say they are not accurate is simply not true. Any well tuned arrow...wood,carbon,aluminum,bamboo,etc...will be accurate and if not tuned they will not shoot accurately. I could care less what type material people use for arrows, or what type bows they shoot also. Like i said in an earlier post, if you find someone close to you they would be willing to help you understand and explain how to go about picking the right spine and tuning them to your bow and it will make it a whole lot easier for you. If you have you mind made up that wood sucks, cant be tuned, and not accurate thats fine just shows your not knowledgable in the tuning of woodies which is something new your trying to do. Hopefully you can get some tuned and then you will see why we like them!!! Either way good luck and enjoy your shooting with what ever arrow material you use!!!

I realy realy like shooting wood arrows. Thats the first step in getting them to fly great.

@crimsonarrow: We still don't know your good flying carbon arrow....Your bow model may also be of interest...

Otherwise this thread is just a waste of time.

Thank you everyone your thoughts. In my opinion wood arrows suck.

I was making a statement with this post. But I was confused as I was asking for everyone's permission to dislike wood arrows. Thanks,until the next post.

Sorry you have bad wood, I have GOOD wood!

Wood is all I shoot. I got tired of nocks flying off carbons among other things.

...and I bareshaft all my every new set of arrows I get.

Lol

Termite said the same thing

Tracy, man I know your frustration I broke two woody's on impact with foam. I'll push nocks back in any day much cheaper and less time consuming.

So glad we have many choices :))

Man, I sure hope Dire is on the mend... Love to get his perspective on this one!

If an arrow breaks upon impact with foam, then it didn't hit flying straight. And I'm a complete woodie rookie, though I've busted several that way myself. It's not the fact that the shaft is made of wood that causes that breakage- it's the fact that it's wood IN THE WRONG SPINE hitting at the wrong angle. Though I'm pretty sure shooting into a sand castle would fix that pretty easily.

I don't understand why bare shafting would be viable for Al or C but not for wood. Somebody is just going to have to explain that part... Especially since Ken Beck has that nice video on bare-shaft tuning in which he did it - with wood shafts, IIRC - in [YouTube] textbook fashion.

I like wood, myself - most durable stumping arrow I ever owned was a cedar flu- flu with a 6-fletch cut down to 1" height. I finally killed it by shooting square into a half-ton chunk of New England's finest granite, but I don't have any idea how many shots it had survived up to that point... I've wrecked a PILE of aluminum shafts on glancing blows, though...

Quite the can worms. You have several comments I agree with.

I'm going to assume your shooting a high performance recurve with FF. IMHO woods don't like an extreme initial upset into the paradox. Modern materials handle that better. They quit shooting POC a long time ago out of wheels because of the problems with them in that equipment. Again IMHO you need to go much stiffer for your POC's.

Out of one of my recurves 55@28 it took 80-85 woods with FF and no silencers (foam dose not jump a string!) If you can get your hands on some stiffer shafts give it a go before you give up POC's. Or de-tune the bow!

Take care, Old

pretty hard to blame the wood I reckon.There has been more wood/bamboo arrows shot than any other material used for arrows.Wood was used for thousands of years and served their users very well.Please don't dismiss wood as being no good.Get some help because wood is excellent for making arrows.I would really like to see exactly what you are doing with your wooden arrows.I just can't get it as I have been shooting wood all my life (50 years)and never had that sort of problem.This is what I believe to be true .Spine is very important.Quality of raw material (I prefere old growth wood)straight grained no run outs. They need to be tuned to suit the bow and shooters style/form.Get help and give wood another try ,its worth it. Good luck. OSR

OSR they used the old rotary phone for a day or two also things change and get better. And yes thier are people who still use that phone just not me.

I fail to see how carbon splinters are better. I personally saw it happen to a compound shooter.Very nasty.You know there is no mystery with wooden arrows .It is not rocket science very basic and straight forward.I have shot carbons , fibreglass and Aluminum.All three shoot fine no doubt about it.I don't expect you to like wooden arrows.You really haven't given them a fair go.Yeah it's old technology but that's my idea of what traditional is.Thats not to say others who shoot carbons or Aluminum aren't traditional.I very carefully select the wood I use for my arrows.Its generally recycled old growth Douglas fir or Scots pine.The only machines I use to make my shafts are a saw to cut out the blanks and a drill to sand the shafts to size with special sanding blocks.They are all hand footed and rounded off with a hand plane.All my knocks are reinforced self knocks.I use bone,horn or hard wood for reinforcement pieces.Ocasionally I get exceptional wood and these arrows shoot as good as Aluminum or carbons.Lets face it most of us won't be shooting for Olympic gold and perfect arrows would not be a major issue any way.Osr stands for Old School Richie and I really do aproach my archery in that manner.Just enjoy your shooting any way you like to.Have fun. OSR

Crimsonarrow, Here's a couple of reference points. First is from Stu Miller's spine calculator.

I used the 51# in the first post for bow weight at full draw. Set the draw length at 28". Arrow diameter = 11/32, gpp = 11, length = 29", point weight = 125, nock weight = 15, 3x5" feathers for the fletch. You can use any of the high performance recurves in the chart like Assenheimer Master Hunter, or Bob Lee takedown, and the calculator suggests starting with a static spine between 70-75#. (no Robertson bows in the selection chart but the Master Hunter selection works well for my Fatal Styk)

Personal shooting style, etc., will always impact the results. Another reference point is the spine selection criteria of one of the better known recurve makers. He basically says take the weight of the bow at your draw length and add 5# of spine for every inch your arrows are longer than 26". This would give a starting point of 65-70 for field points using a 29" arrow. Broadheads might require another 5#.

This suggests you might need at least 10# more spine than you started with. Also note the experience with your daughter shooting the arrows well with her 26" draw. Plug her shorter draw and smaller draw weight into the above reference points and they say she should be able to get by with 10-15# less spine. So maybe before leaving woodys try some stiffer shafts.

For me carbons shoots better, I try wood now and then

Life is about choices. Crimson you made your choice. That's fine.

Wooden arrows have been made and shot for many years.

The fact that you could not get them to work is by no means a reflection on the medium. You just couldn't do it.

Some of the traditional archery I hear about left me behind 26 years ago. That was my choice. I am happy doing what I do which is shooting self-arrows out of self-bows; all of which I make myself including the shafts. Sometimes I harvest shafts from nature.

BTW, I do have a smartphone and no rotary phones. LOL.

I used to tune my recurves by shooting a variety of spines from fletched arrows.

I once bare shaft tuned a wild rose shaft. I got it to hit dead center, with great flight, from more than 15 yards... like it had feathers. Then I fletched a raw wild rose shaft and tuned it to the bow. Same spine.

I just like wooden bows and wooden arrows. I also like being self-sufficient. I haven't figured out how to machine my field points. LOL. But I do make my trade points for hunting.

It's a rainy Wednesday. I think that I'll spend some time cutting some self nocks on some hand planed white pine shafts.

Enjoy your carbons. They are fine shaft though I've never owned any.

Jawge

50 years after an EMPW attack, any survivors will be shooting wood.

I won't be shooting anything. :)

Jim. Do you remember when we used to hide under our school desks scared of the Russians. They love to keep us scared. Scared people are easily controlled. Food for thought. Stock up on carbons, the sky is falling.

Our teachers were more realistic. They said if there wasn't time to go to Canada, we should just not worry about it.

As I said, 50 years from now or from any later event, I won't be here--I'm too old.

You are right that the Government wants to keep us scared--or hating each other, or fat and lazy. People in those conditions don't question government, require leaders to toe the line, and they don't rebel.

Well, at least Oldbowyer is willing to stand up and make some sense.... It seems at least plausible that the man-made shafting could (owing to a higher modulus) straighten up and fly right after having been bent to a degree from which wood simply cannot recover before the arrow has established some sideways momentum....

But it seems like the answer to that would be simply to go up in spine until the max deflection is no longer in the "unrecoverable" category...

Kind of ironic, though, that a recurve enthusiast might stretch beyond his means to acquire a really high-performance bow, and then be forced to de-tune the rig in order to use his shafting of choice.... Think I'd sooner go up to some ridiculous sounding spine and hope the shafting doesn't get to be prohibitively heavy...

I read this top to bottom. There have been many attempts to get the data of crimsonarrow's set up i.e. kind of bow, string material, draw length, grain orientation, etc. Without feedback there is no way to get anywhere. I guess it's possible he doesn't want any help. Good luck crimsonarrow.

Doesn't matter what material the arrow if you started out too weak to begin with. Try some in the next spine range and see if that makes a difference...my guess is it will. Woodies are awesome once you find the right ones!

Wood arrows were it until WWII. I make mine from scratch. They shoot good for me. I don't bareshaft.

You can alway stiffen them up other ways: reduce point weight to 100gr or 70gr, use big 5.5" feathers, and add arrow wraps. All will stiffen the arrow.

DJ. You must not have read this top to bottom. Or yo would have read that I was making a statement. Not an inquiry. Thanks for wanting to help out.

DJ. You must not have read this top to bottom. Or yo would have read that I was making a statement. Not an inquiry. Thanks for wanting to help out.

not an arrow expert by any means. Have been slinging arrows for about 50 yrs, but am no means an expert on any part of bowhunting. But; I have found out that certain bows like certain arrow types. I have a gorgeous wooden arrow case with a massive nontypical buck wood burned and stained. It holds my favorite batch of hunting arrows, that shoot great out of my favorite hunting bow. Odd that out of this 2 dozen of perfect shooting arrows; half are chundoo with natural self cut wild turkey feather fletching, and the other half are carbon, with exact same fletching. Both shoot better than I can hold! The guy that inspected my truck and contents a few years ago at the Mcalester hunt, made the comment that those Chundoo arrows were some of the most beautiful arrows he had ever seen; and said he would not hunt with such arrows! LOL! He could not believe that the carbons laying beside them shot exactly in the same spot as the Chundoo arows. Chundoo arrows with mahogany stained circles the length of the shaft, and a rich cherry stain for contrast, and the real wild turkey fletching do make for some eye catching bullets. It is also so nice that the pretty arrows shott outstanding, right along side with carbons. Maybe your bow just have a favorite material like some of my bows do? I have 8 different trad bows, but only a couple that I call my favorites because they shoot better for me than the others. It sems like out of all these bows, some of them sure seem to prefer a certain arrow materials. Just what I have learned from my bow collection? Hope you find a straight shooter that you enjoy shooting. Tonto

DJ this has turned out to be fairly provocative for what seemed to be something real simple.It looks like some one had a bad run using wood and hasn't taken the time to learn about wooden arrows.I don't consider it wise to write off wood if you didn't do it correctly in the first place.I have shot carbons and they are fantastic but seeing a compound archer get the splinter treatment has put me off.That in my mind doesn't give me any cause to say that carbons are no good.As with all equipment you need to take care of it and the carbon that splintered had been abused by its owner.Even all my hand made self knocked footed shafts can fail .They don't however because I inspect them and have been known to snap faulty arrows rather than to mistakingly shoot them.You can call me whimp or girlie boy but carbons scare the shit out of me.I say shoot what you want and just enjoy it .Provocative comments have never helped any one that I know. Cheers and good shooting to all. OSR

Crimson .I see lots of good folk trying to help you inderstand wood.If you don't like wood than that's fine.I can't see why you posted your comments in the manner that you did.You may have won a few competitions and you are better than me because I haven't .Congratulations on that to BTW At my club you can shoot carbons and Aluminum but not in competitions .Wood the only arrow material allowed.In a final of a comp 1 target was a 3D rabbit at 60 meters away and the competitors in the final were all hitting it consistantly.The winner was decided in a matter of inches.I think 60 meters is about 66 yards.Don't tell me wood is not accurate as I have seen it . Just enjoy your shooting cause life is too short . OSR

Won't even bother arguing.

Not going to claim which is better, carbon, aluminum or wood. But i can sure get any of them to fly true to the mark. In fact i can mix them in my quiver and they all hit the same as long as they are tuned right.

I'm sure it's frustrating, but as others have said, its not the wood.

My POC arrows are bare shafts from 3Rivers and turned into arrows my myself. Nothing expensive as far as wood goes. They will shoot better then me most days. Some times I can hit "dimes" and other times I need a saucer?? I don't bare shaft and my arrows have always hit the same also with field points or BHs--despite what I've read that you need to tune to one or the other. This whole which shaft material is like which car or which bow. There are enough choices to make everybody happy.

The Leatherwall armchair experts sure love the give their over valued two cents on threads like this don't they. The man didn't even ask a question. Didn't even ask for your advice but 91 posts later he's gotten every piece of advice except how to wipe. Geez.

Front to back by the way is best.

No, he didn't ask a question... just upchucked his unjustified bias. We did the best we could with it :^)

Understood. Carry on.

Troller perhaps. Diletante? No need to get one's undies in a bundle, regardless.

Careful with the comment guys I'm quite witty and it might sting a bit

Touche. I'll keep quiet.

Im done with wood arrows also, atleast the ones that are broken!!!! Lol

IF you cant get arrows in the proper spine for your bow weight at your draw length with your very common weighted broadheads...then you dont want them to fly well and using them as an excuse.

I have owned Robertson recurves and currently own a longbow and his wolfer... 55-60 should be perfect unless you draw long or shorter than the length your bows weight is measure. I typically add 5# for FF, 5# for centershot...if you are drawing 28". If drawing 29" then add another 5#.

It aint the bow or the wood...it is the shooter.

keep em sharp,

ron herman

Never caught your draw. But, you are underspined.

Add 5 for recurve

Add 5 for every inch of arrow over 27 on a recurve cut past center.

Add 10 for being that far past center.

Add 5 for low stretch string if you have one.

Minimum 70-75's. The shafting isn't the problem. God Bless

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