Thinking I may want to try a Bear takedown. I want it mainly for 3D's. I have a bit less then a 28" draw. I want a smooth draw but I don't want to go too long either. I know that there are combinations of limbs and risers that can make a bow from 56" to I think 64". I'd like to know thoughts on limb riser combinations to make either a 60" or 62" bow. Short riser and longer limbs or medium riser and short limbs. What are your thoughts. I'm thinking no more then 45# so what limb weight would work for which riser?

They dont make #2 limbs anymore so 60' Is youre Huckleberry an A riser wth #3 limbs Or a B riser wth #1 Limbs make a 60' Bow !!!

King. I know you have a few of these so is there an advantage going with the "A" riser and longer limbs or the "B" riser and shorter limbs? How do the two setups compare?

I like A with. #. 3 limbs. For me it is best At 60 in.

One more question. Can you still get the all babinga (sp) riser?

I have a B riser with number 3, 45# limbs. This makes a 64 inch bow which I am very happy with. I team this set-up with a set of #1, 50 pound limbs, making a 60 inch bow. Fred Bear, himself, preferred the B riser. With the "B" I can go short or long depending on the hunting situation. Good luck and good shooting.

Depends a little on how much riser you like. I personally like smaller risers in any bow I shoot so I have an A riser and #3 limbs. I think that combination will draw a little smoother, but probably be a couple of fps slower than a longer riser and short limbs. Not enough to worry about on either feature, however.

lots of bubinga risers available on ebay and probably big jims

B riser with #1 limbs. Will make you a 60" bow, but with the longer riser and shorter limbs, there should (in theory) be a little more speed. Let us know, God and Christ Bless

I like the B riser and #1 limbs. I chose the B riser because I don't cant much and I like the longer sight window.

Bill

How are the limbs marked for weight? Are they marked with different weights for the A or B riser? How close in weight to the marked weight have you found the limbs to be?

The limbs are usually listed what poundage they will be with each riser

Thanks for the help!

B riser has more sight window and for 3 D that would be the ticket I Think !!!

I have three Bear Custom Kodiak Takedowns and all three have B- Risers and #1 Limbs. And all three are 60#@28". I also have two extra sets of #1 Limbs in 67#@28". I like the longer sight window of the B-Riser, and at 60" in length it seems to be more smoother drawing. I'm looking to buy another one but I haven't made up my mind if I want a new one or a older model.

I've been shooting a lot with a Bear Magnesium 'B' with #1 48# limbs on it, shooting it at 29" actually gives me a scaled 52#. Shoots better than I usually do and to my feel, draws like it's actually a lighter bow. As others have mentioned, the sight window is taller, by a significant amount on the 'B'.

I also have a new 'A' riser and a pretty nice 'B' (green stripe) so would have the complete set, except I have no 'C' which isn't a biggie on my list.

Comparing the new riser and the older ones, I do notice that there is a little better forming of the radii on the older riser, both the magnesium and the green stripe, that is a LOT more comfortable. I notice it on the upper inside, low on my thumb when I shoot the 'A' a while. Thinking I'll contact Bear about that one.

The only other thing to add from my 'litter' of Bears is to check the draw weights on the scales at whatever length you draw. I found a nicely priced set of limbs that were supposed to draw 40# @ 28" on an A are actually just getting to 40# @ 29". The ones on my magnesium are marked 48# @ 28" are pulling 52# @ 29", and similarly the 60# #1 limbs on the green stripe actually scaled 65# @ 29". None of these seem incredibly outside expectation, but there is a difference. There's some variation at time of manufacturer but also over time.

Hope that helps some.

Nick

All the bow weight specs at Bear are +- 2 lbs of what is marked, but things can happen.

I personally like shorter bows because that is what I like to hunt with so I target shoot my hunting bows. I have a very long draw at 32"s and don't believe that a bow has to be long to be smooth. But if you are used to shooting a long working limb at say 50lbs and you buy a bow with a shorter working limb at the same weight, it won't feel as "smooth"...but it may feel/be faster.

If you are going down in draw weight for this and with a draw length of under 28"s, I would think you would love the B riser with number 1 limbs. This will give you a large sight window and enough working limb for a draw length 3"s longer than yours.

Heck, you would probably even like the A riser with #1 limbs.

Just in case you didnt' know, we are having a sale on all in stock Bear bows until Monday morning.

We have a bunch of limbs in stock and 2 or three two tone bubinga and black maple B risers in stock...A's and B's for you LH's too. Price for a brand new Bear TD (limbs and risers) during our sale???? $765 and free shipping to boot....and this will come with a quality custom string.

thanks, bigjim

Honestly you should try both riser lengths. I'm a B-riser fan, and they do have a different feel while shooting due to slightly different dynamics. I like B-with #1 limbs, my draw is just an eye lash longer than 27".

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