From: Cutty
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Apr-15 |
|
What are your tecniques for a green stave, say 3"x 3" to work into a bow as quick as safely possible.
|
|
From: ohma2
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Apr-15 |
|
For me, depending on the type of wood ,take it down to close bow deminsions and put it somewhere it will be warm with a little air current moving.you will get a much better bow from a good dry piece of wood though.
|
|
From: Fred Arnold
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Apr-15 |
|
The greenest I've made into a bow was taken down close to bow dimensions and cured 9 months, I know of others who have used a hot box and had them done in less than 90 days. Most of mine are seasoned 1-2 years with some going on 15.
|
|
From: John Scifres
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 01-Apr-15 |
|
I like to get it to a back, either by chasing a heartwood ring on osage or peeling the bark on whitewoods, and then coating the back with shellac. I then lay out the bow and cut it to the widest dimension. This allows for shifts in the wood during drying. Then I thin it to 5/8" all the way across the entire limb. It helps to make this as consistent as possible for even drying.
I then store the stave in a cool spot for 30 days. After that you can force dry it using a hot box, or attic. It will be workable in a few weeks or less.
If you start bending the bow and it is slow to recover, it is likely still too wet.
I have made a couple elm bows in less than 2 weeks by really pushing it. This is easy to do if you make wide, thin (1/2") limbs and carefully monitor the drying daily.
|
|
From: Arvin
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Date: 04-Apr-15 |
|
This is why I am tring to build up to a three year stock of staves. That means about 50-60 or twenty per year.
|
|
If you have already registered, please sign in now
For new registrations Click Here
|
|
|