From: Catsailor
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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I bought a blank from Old Master Crafters. I'm at the point where I have glued on the layers of micarta for tip overlays. What are the best tools/methods to shape and put the finishing touches on the overlays? I have them sanded to almost flush to the limb edges now.
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From: dire wolf
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Some tape on the limbs where they will feather out smoothly..
Chainsaw file for the string nocks..Flat fine files for the shapeing and contours.. Wet sanding with 3M wet or dry 200 grit & finer paper and olive oil.. 0000 steel woolwith oil for final plishing..
Then a wipe down with acetone or miseral spirits and your final finish..Jim
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From: stykzz
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Two things I like to do to make the tips a little easier and even are 1.) feather the end of the overlay before glueing on to the limb. Easier to get a smooth transition. Then after you get them rough shaped, take a strip of sand paper about an inch wide and "shoe shine" the tips. It makes them very symetrical. I start with 100 grit and end with 220.
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From: Catsailor
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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I feathered the first layer and glued it to the limb. I have three layers of overlay and was afraid to glue all three together before gluing to the limb tip because of the curve it would have to conform to. I was worried the glue joints would be stressed because the layers would each have a slightly different radius. I tried files and they are very slow to remove material. That stuff is tough. Maybe I need a coarser file. I also tried one of those combination rasps that have four different surfaces. One of my dilemmas is feathering the bottom of the overlay without hitting the glass. I guess that's where the tape comes in eh? This is my first whack at anything to do with bow building.
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From: patrick569
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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You can use a one inch sanding drum with a dremel. Just go slow.
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From: strshotx
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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On the couple of bow blanks I have done I shaped my tip overlays with a 1/2" drum sander on my Dremel and sandpaper.I used a chainsaw file for nock grooves.
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From: Kurchak
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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I use a 4" round bastard file for the grooves, a 4 in 1 rasp for rough shaping, and a chalkboard eraser to use as a sanding block with 80 grit sandpaper to final shape/refine. Never had much luck with power equipment for limb tips.
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From: stykzz
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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For the string grooves I use a tungsten rasp for my dremel. Spendy but fast and easy.
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From: BenM
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Off topic but could you post some pics of your bow from Old Master Crafters. I've never seen any of his blanks. Thanks
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From: bodork
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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On the phenolic I use mostly fine files. I lay the file at the end of the phenolic and pull it toward the tip. Then go to 60 grit on a sanding block. If you lightly scratch the glass it's not the end of the world. In fact, if you want that seamless look, you will have to sand the glass just a little. Just be very careful not to gouge it.
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From: THRC
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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After I shape the little buggers, I get thick cord and do the 'shoeshine' thing to the string grooves to burnish them really smooth so they don't abrade or make a tight spot or rough spot on the string loops.
TinHorn
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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As above.They are the hardest part to get good at IMO.They sell abraisive cord for the nocks.I always feather all before putting on limb.Have some acetone handy to wipe the excess glue off immediately.
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From: Fletch
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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I used a dremel and a rasp to do all the rough in. I cut the string grooves in with the dremel. I sanded everything with a porter cable oscillating sander. I taped a metal putty knife down over the limbs to only leave the limb tip exposed in case the dremel got away from me.
This was my first try
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From: Catsailor
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Mike who sells the abrasive cord? I have the small round file for the string nocks. I guess the next trick will be to get the string nocks right so the string follows the center of the limbs. Then tillering? This has been a good experience so far. Maybe I will eventually do my own glue up. Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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From: Pago
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Belt sander Harbor freight oscillating multi tool with progressively finer grit sanding pads.
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From: tripv
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Catsailor you are right about not gluing them all up and then trying to press them to the tip. that's a lot of stress on one glue line. Try this. Take the laminate that is going to be glued directly to the glass and feather sand it all alone. Then glue all laminates as a stack to the tip using tape as suggested above. That will get you real close. Then put a scrap piece of glass or core lamination over the tape "just clamped or taped down" to further protect the finished glass while shaping the tip. I hope this helps. Tripv
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From: bishotuwa
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Amen on the dremel, i use a carbide tapered pc. From master carvers i can shape em in a heart beat, finish with paper and steel wool
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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Mitchellsabrasives.com
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From: Lost Arra
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Date: 26-Jan-15 |
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What ever you use, don't rush it.
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