A few years back a friend gave me sum bulk blades i cut and welded em for my delta saw they looked like a metal cutting blade they were thicker than H/D offers , they really cut good, i'm talking going through a osage stave and never wander, he got em from someone and can't remember. Anyone have a source for a really good blade

Call Woodcraft Bands - 1-800-582-1328 They make very good band saw blades and at a reasonable price too.

Woodworker's Tool Works

Don't know what your primary use is, but I have had exceptional success with the tri-master from lenox for cutting glass bows. I can get nearly 200 bows and risers out of one blade. They do run about $120 a piece, but they are worth it to me.

bigjim

Www.timberwolfblades.com All lower case. Great folks, awesome blade. 800-234-7297

What width and tooth count do you like Big Jim?

I order the tri-master blade from Lenox and I didn't have a choice on blade configuration.

The blade i have is .035 thick and 7 tpi, with this blade i can set up my fence and rip through a 5"slab with no wandering

What Tracker7 said.

If you are going to cut ANY glass, you can forget the wood or bi- metal blades. Cut out one riser and you are done. You might burn thru the second one.

For glass bows Big Jim is spot on, For wood bows I like a timber wolf in 1/2" in 4 tpi hook or skip.

For the tri-master, I would suggest the 1/2" and it only comes in one tooth count...not only the cheapest option for tri-master, but works dang good!

If you never cut glass with it, it will go through would faster than Obummer through our money. After the first glass cutting, there will be a noticeable change in sharpness, but will continue to cut glass and wood well for 100-200 bows and maybe more.

BigJim

Thanks for all the help,i don't do many glass bows anymore but the best thing i found for glass was a bi-metal 18tpi on my portaband, i hold it up right in one hand and feed it with the other the varible speed is nice and blades last many cuts and 2 blade pack 14.00

Obummer that's real funny Jim. LOL

After using many different band saw blades over the years I finally sprung for the tri-master (thanks Big Jim) $130 and change. Got the blade in and hurried out to the shop and installed it on my saw. turned the saw on and I was horrified at how bad it wobbled, sent the blade back and it was found to be defective. Replacement came two weeks later, yes two weeks. Installed it today and you guessed it, almost as bad as the first. This blade came from a Lennox distributor. Put my old $16 blade back on and it runs perfect.

Big Jim.............where are you getting your blades?

James

I have purchased them from two or three different suppliers over the years and never had a problem. I usually get them from bandsawbladesdirect. I doubt the problem is with the blade itself but more likely the weld...but I wasn't there. I guess if you received two from the same place that was bad, they might have a bad roll... Most all the bigger bandsaw blade sellers are welding their own off of a master roll. And yes, if they don't have it all ready made up, it can take even longer. I keep an extra in stock just in case. They last so long for me, that I forget about them...so when one finally breaks, I have a back up sitting there.

bigjim

I can only say that Big Jim gave me the same advice about a year ago to get the Tri-Master blade. I got mine from bandsawbladesdirect. Yes, it cost a bunch of money but in my opinion well worth it if your cutting out glass bows. I just got a new band saw and I'm about to order another Tri-Master. For me it's the only way to go. My first blade runs great. I sure hope I don't run into the same issues as JamesV.

Try MSC it is an industrial supply ,have bought Lenox blades from them they get them welded from Lenox .Never had an issue in ten years ,I work in a machine shop and we use alot of blades great turn around on special sizes.

James, did you check your set up after installing the blade? Were you tracking down the center of the rollers?

Big Jim,

Can you use that 1/2" Lenox to cut curves like sight windows or just straight line cuts? I have used a different brand of carbon blade that fried after just one cut through a laminated hardwood / glass riser. $120 down the drain.....

I cut out all of my limbs, site windows, riser blocks containing glass or phenolic and cut my two piece bows in half on the same saw with the same blade. I have a lagauna for cutting veneers and I bought a third saw to cut all wood risers and to cut up horns. This way I never change out a blade until it is shot. I hate changing out blades and the griz ultimate is so cheap, if I had room, I'd probably buy another or two, but I don't know what for :)

The site window, I make a plunge cut from the side and then a curved cut from top to meet plunge cut. No big curves. The risers have a gradual arc like most any riser...certainly not strait.

I used to cut horn on the trimaster also, but it would jerk them from my hands and slam them across the table and about the room. this would frequently damage the blade and nearly damage my underwear... Since I quit using the trimaster on the horn, it lasts twice as long. BigJim

Thanks Jim! Sure 'preciate the advice.

Another vote for timberwolf blades.

I have tried the timberwolf blades and they didn't work for me...I will say though that I am a very tough customer. I keep over 60 different varieties of wood in the shop and think nothing of cutting the hardest of woods.

I am often asked how hard such and such wood is on blades and I reply, I don't even pay attention to that anymore as they are all hard on blades.

I cut veneers out of vera, snakewood, desert ironwood and probably as hard as any of those, pink ivory.

bigjim

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