From: bigbulls6
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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I was wanting advice on where to start books, DVD's etc. on arrow building I have also been looking at Rose City starter kits but open to advice from you guys/gals..I have purchase some good arrows but the price is steep. But moreover I want to build and shoot my own.. Thanks Rob
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From: dhaverstick
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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I am assuming that you are talking about wooden arrows? T.J Conrads' book, "The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" has a great chapter on arrow building.
This site and TradGang also have a bunch of good threads on sealing, cresting, fletching and suppliers to get all your stuff. You just have to search for them.
Darren
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From: cyrille
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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I suppose that you have already decided on the type of wood you wish to use... All that's left is to purchase those shafts, the feathers, the points, the fletching jig, etc. I recommend the Bitzenburger jig, and fletching tape as opposed to fletching glue. Depending on what you intend to use the arrows for feathers come on various lengths. If for target competition 3 or 4 inch feathers are good, if primarily for hunting I recommend a longer length of feather, 5 or 5 1/2" I've also found that a straight fletch clamp is just as good as a right or left helical one. When you fletch your arrows always fletch with either right wing or left wing feathers NEVER mix the two on one arrow! I have a few more suggestions, if you would care to hear them send me a pm on this site. cyrille
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From: N. Y. Yankee
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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Id be glad to help walk you through it. If you hve any specific questions, feel free to PM me.
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From: inrut
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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I'm not super experienced, but arrow building is easy. Just order the shafts and start straightening. There's a ton of info on here and other sights to follow after that. When I started the finishing was the most intimidating part, but it's not bad with a 3/4 inch pvc dip tube with a larger bell reducer on the top. Then just pour in a mix of polyurethane and thinner and you're good to go. Let them drip dry.
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From: bigbulls6
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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Thank You guys!!!
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From: Altek
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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There's a wealth of info on Utoob about making arrows, some good and some not. But it's a good place to get initiated, especially since it has video coverage. 'Movin' pitchers' always help show how-to much better than just reading about it. Have fun.
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From: firekeeper
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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X2 for the "Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook".
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From: Harleywriter
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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Real good video offered by 3Rivers, a site sponsor, I believe. Watch it a couple of times, look at other videos and get the ideal 3Rivers also offers a video on how to do it.
There are other sources of information as well and some were mentioned above.
It is a lot of fun and therapeutic.
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From: Popester1
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Date: 25-Nov-14 |
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What Harleywriter said, It is a lot of fun and therapeutic. PLUS, if I can do it, anybody can do it.
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From: Thin Man
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Date: 26-Nov-14 |
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There's one resource for making woodies right here on Stickbow.com!
http://www.stickbow.com/features/index.cfm?feature=arrowmaking
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From: Harleywriter
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Date: 26-Nov-14 |
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my post waswnt clear, I see. You can go to youtube and watch a 3Rivers how to and then you can buy an indepth video from them. I do not work for 3Rivers. Ha,
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From: overbo
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Date: 26-Nov-14 |
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IMO, you must make sure your nocks are in perfect alignment w/ the shaft. When ordering from a supplier, I'll request the shafts to have the nock end tapered. Most suppliers are set up to build many finished arrows and their taper grinding equipment is usually pretty accurate. I believe poor nock alignment is the biggest culprit for novice arrow builders to get discouraged.
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From: George Tsoukalas
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Date: 26-Nov-14 |
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I wrote this up 10 years ago. When I looked at the date, I was really surprised. Time flies.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/simplearrow.html
I cut self nocks. To use plastic the nock taper is 11 degrees.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Jawge
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From: aromakr
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Date: 27-Nov-14 |
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Jawge: Actually the ATA changed the nock taper standard from 11 degrees to 11.5 degrees some years ago. Why! I've been told it was instigated by Easton and then low and behold they went to the uni-nock. One more screw up from Easton, they also instigated the spine standard change, did it improve anything? NO. Bob
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From: Glocer357
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Date: 28-Nov-14 |
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With wood shafts be sure that they are hand spined and not machine spined , otherwise you, ll end up with a wide range of stiffness in your shafts.
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From: dire wolf
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Date: 28-Nov-14 |
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Over many years, I and others have made some fine matched wood arrows that are accurate and durable.
You must start with acceptable arrow wood.. Depending on what sort of bow you want them to match up with..draw weight, draw length and primary purpose, SOME arrow woods are better for the chosen equipment and primary task for your archery than others..
Whatever wood you decide on..Tke time to select shafting( or shoots for that matter) that have little or no grain runout.
They will straighten and stay straight much better and be more durable..ESP for those who enjoy roving-stump shooting..
Then one cut's them to his draw length plus 1/2" and matches them in spine to at least 5# or closer.. Then one Matches them in overall wright to within 5 grinsof one another..
Then he grinds the tapers for point and nock on the straight shafting..
Then he can dip them..perhaps cap them and crest them..
If you cap and crest, apply a couple coats of dip overall.
I usually Glue the nock on prior to fletching. At that point..it's time to flecth them up.. Get your feathers of quality and use a decent fletching jig that is adjusted properly and use a suitable glue..
I've used DUCO for woods for years..tho Bohnings Fletch Tape works fine also..
Don't forget the drop of glue on tapered leading edge of the fletching as well as the rear end..
Lastly comes the installation of the point..A bit of Ferrule Tite hot melt has worked for me for many years..
Insure your point tapers are proper length so the wood taper fits all the way to the bottom of the point interior. If your shafts were strait and then tapers ground well, they will all fit nicely with no wobble.
I'm pretty old school when it comes to wood arrows..:0 But properly selected, spined matched and done..they will do very well for the stickbow archer..Jim
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From: Andy Man
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Date: 28-Nov-14 |
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"I am assuming that you are talking about wooden arrows? T.J Conrads' book, "The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" has a great chapter on arrow building."
X3; basically allyou need to know in that book
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 28-Nov-14 |
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It's actually very easy. Get the above book, or check youtube for some good videos.
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