I use a mill bastard file to sharpen my broadheads and was wondering if I can use the same method for my hunting knife? I have a Lansky and other assorted sharpeners but nothing seems to be as quick and efficient as a file. I just don't want to screw up my knife.

I suppose you could, but I wouldn't. There are much better ways to sharpen a nice knife.

I have seen files used to change an edge but that was always followed with stones.

Mill files are a NO-NO on stainless steel.

I would only use a file to sharpen a good knife as a last resort. Perhaps if the blade had a nick in it I may use a file to remove the nick, but then back to a stone to finish the job. Learn to use a stone to put a good edge on a knife, chisel, plane blade, etc. and they will not only work much more efficiently but safer, because you can control the tool better.

I would only do that as a last resort. I like my knives too much. I keep mine frequently stropped with leather and compound, and that's often all they need.

The steel in my hunting knife is harder than a file, they won't leave a mark on it.

The reverse to this is why I do not use a file on my broadheads. I consider my broadheads to be fine cutting instruments and use a file only to do necessary shaping on the cutting edges and a stone for the rest.

The only knife I regularly use a file on (12 inch mill bastard) is my old Collins Machete.

Not to be thought a coarse barbarian, but a recent article on sharpening techniques and materials found skillful use of a flat file to produce a hair-shaving cutting edge on premium kitchen knives as effective and nearly as the best multi-stone sharpening. There are several videos on youtube demonstrating that conclusion. It's also a lot easier with a file, but lacking the requisite skill, to really mess up your edge.

I have some poor quality kitchen knives that I wanted to put back into use. I used the same file as with my BH's to raise a burr along the edge and then finished the burr with a steel. Very quick and a very functional edge. My hunting knife? No way.

I have used a file on a knife before because I wanted to change the angle of the cutting edge. It did take considerable work on a rod and stone to polish the edge back but it worked fine.

I was cleaning some fish a few months ago and the fellow did not have a stone to sharpen his fillet knife with. I happen to have a file in my truck. That particular steel took to the file very well and gave me a great edge, I also use only files on my draw knives. I would not touch one of my good pocket knives with a file.

most knives i have are tough and a file will not really cut in too quick if the file is dull yes dull files do get dull if a knife is really dull the file will remove more material then you can use a stone to get it were you want then use a steel to straighten it .as far as stainless you can file it but it is tough i cut stainless with a file all the time even a2 or d2 or 01 it is just tough a lot of good knives are fairly hard around mid 50s rc scale which i think is to hard

OMG, somebody alert the Association for the Prevention of Cruelty to Cutlery, LOL!

what does that mean ? we are discussing sharpening knives .

HMM.. I am adept at sharpening all sorts of cutting 'tools'.. And I know how to use the file..:)

Unless the edge is really boogered up from abuse?..and needs serious work..including the bevel angle..I don't use files on any of my working-hunting knives..or broadheads..

Whetstones-oil..hones..strops with jeweler's rouge?..Yes

And I have a whole assortment of fine carbon and AUS 8 stainless edged tools from hatchets and axes and machetes and drawknives and wood chisels and knives and ...that a fellow could shave with IF he wasn't drunk in the dark..:)

Most of the better knives or other edged tools..have an appropriate bevel ground and honed by the makers that's suitable for the thickness of the blade and the tool's designed useage..Jim

dire wolf from what i am reading here your tools spend more time not being used so in that case you would never need to grind them or file them .if you USE TOOLS they will need moved back or reset hatchets or any wood cutting tools even knives they get to thick saw blades need gummed out etc jewelers thats for polishing .your tools look like more for show than go .

I use a file on lots of heavy use knives. It's faster. Yes it wears faster, yes it has to be softer steel...but it's easier to wear out and replace working knives than screw with dull stuff. I sharpen kitchen knives, hoof trimming knives, machetes, hachets, butchering knives,and filet knives to a razor edge with a file and cardboard. I bet your grandaddy did too!

I wouldn't touch any of my knives with a file. Now a hatchet or hawk, yes. Drawkife, no.

A Butcher uses a round file or they call it a sharpening steel. I'll be using our this Thursday on the turkey.

Drawknives were designed to be file sharpened at the bench. The newer ones possibly not. It takes about 1 minute to get a razor sharp edge back.

Had a friend that lived on the river all his life. Family had a fish camp. All he used to sharpen a knife was a file and he had no problem getting them shaving sharp. But again he had a lot of practice during his lifetime. Have a great day

"I use a mill bastard file to sharpen my broadheads and was wondering if I can use the same method for my hunting knife?"

I would not use a file on a quality knife nor would I use a file on broadheads. I use stones.

Jawge

I saw an old video of Mr Bear sharpening broadheads to a razor edge with a file. None of the dead critters looked ashamed that he didn't use a stone.

Id use an accusharp before I would a file.

Many of the archery heroes of the past ( Hill, Bear etc) used a small flat file to sharrpen their broadheads..or knives.. A small flat file is simpler to pack along than a selection of arkansas stones and honing oil.. They used what the had and knew..

A good farm hand or machinist can use a file well for edged tools..or a 30" sandstone foot powered grinding wheel.. Machinists in industry have draw filed 40" wide flat steel bases for heavy cranes in the past.. Now they use milling equipment and CNC machines..

I can knap stone points that are scary sharp..

The average fellow who has a decent knife has tools available that are better than a file to produce a great edge..

A smooth and polished edge properly done..will not microscopically corrode like a filed edge..which looks under close view..like a serrated edge..

Surgeons DON'T use scalpels that have a filed edge..:) But do and use what you think works for you and your needs..:)Jim

i agree it all depends what one is doing a butchers steel straightens the edge after honing not sharpen it i have used files for years still do i sharpened die blocks after i hardened them to were you could shave hair with the edge the surface was ground .sharpeneing is not all the same one size fits all i grind my tin snips .

hvac, If you think Jim doesn't use his knives, you just haven't been here very long, or you don't pay attention. Read some before you criticize.

hvac tech.. Funny about the tinsnips..:) I use a file to touch up side cutters, tin snips and pruning shears as well..

I don't need or use a file for my working knives ..Ceramics..stones, strops..occasionally a butchers stell on the carbon steel kitchen knives Chicago cutlery..:)..But not on a knife like this Muela Jabali..or my Al Mar..or the Pumas..:) Jim

oops!wrong pic?..:)

3 Things you NEVER use on a good cutting tool. Bench grinder, Carbide scraper, File. Only caveat woul be if you must remove a nick in the edge, you might use a file. I still would do it with a stone.

N Y yankee that is as far from reality as one can get you need to understand i grew up sharpening wood working tools plane blades wood chisels planner knives shaper knives grinding drills gumming saw blades filing saw blades and more so then spent 25 years building dies and sharpening them and plastic process knife choppers and let me tell ya there was plenty of grinding going on .some of you guys sharpend a few hunting knives now you know about sharp now way .

I used my two drawknives in decoy carving, one a small antique drawknife and the other German made and razor sharp and neither has seen a file and never will. They have seen plenty of Arkansas stones and leather strops though. Maybe for rough work a file would work but not on these little pretties.

reddogge

i agree with you on that . now if you used those draw knives a lot and stoned them what is going to happen and this is what i am saying the edge will become to thick now even though you will be able to make them razor sharp with a stone they will not slice or cut like they did when the edge was thinner or hollowed out . do you see were i am going here i can almost bet my life those knives were originally GROUND ON A GRINDING WHEEL . then finished with a stone . if you use a hunting knife a few times a year it will never need much sharpening .but that goes for any tool .point is a file is a good tool in the hands of the right person .

AK Pathfinder hit it first. If your knife steel is soft enough - by all means use a fine file. Works great fr axes and broadheads. I have a 10" 1760's style rifleman's knife I file sharpen.

But you may want to treat yourself get a hard steel knife that a file won't touch. I have a D2 blade I could notch a file with. God help me if it ever does get very dull. AUS 8 and most of the harder Sandvick steels a file won't touch. And anymore those are at the tail of the pack.

Remember - a broadhead only has to make one cut. A knife does many.

I have used my broadhead file on one knife. It had such a rounded angle that I couldn't get it sharp. I reshaped the angle on the blade with the file then sharpened with a sharpening steel. But this is a desperate measure.

Well, Ya have a well made cutting edge that's 57-59 Rockwell and files are rough going to do much of any creative work on the edge for resharpening..:)

Y'all use what ya want of course..but three grades of arkansas stones and good honig oil..goo light and then a leather strop with the green jewelers rouge have worked for me on touching up and sharpening some fine knifes.. This knife was made & engraved for me by Al Mar a number of years back.. Never used this one in combat or for elk field butchering..BUT it'll never see a file on it's edge long as I own it..:)Jim

I figure any knife blade that a file can bite into doesn't deserve being called a good knife.A cheap one yes ,but not good. Good cutting edges should be real hard. I swear by Arkansas slates as one of the best stones out there. Not as savage as diamond honeing and finer finish too. Definately no files for me.OK for broad heads though. OSR

ok sharpen what you want how ever you want . i still think some of you do not get it and do not want to. i will continue to keep my tools sharp they way they should be done . my tools and knives are made to go not show .

Not true about good knives and tools not being good if a file can sharpen them. Each tool has it's place. A lof of knife makers are do not like the super hard steels as they are too hard to bring to a good edge. A working tool like a draw knife you don't want to spend a lot of time sharpening right in the middle of a job. My draw knife will hold and edge through many many bows, dozens. If I decide to dress the the edge with a file, it doesn't take long and it will last a long time.

I have a close friend who works for a high end knife company. He told me last night he sharpens them with a 220 grit belt sander to a razor sharp edge. Finishes them on a strap.

I think some of you guys might dump out a good bowl of beans just to admire the bowl.

Have sharpened many different kind of knives, axes, hatchets etc. with files if they are soft enough. At work, in the break room, we have a old Camillus K Bar that's been there longer than I have......cuts open boxes, slices salami and bagels, rubber mud flaps or anything else that needs cut. It sharpens up easily with a file, and once the burr is off, it's scarey. Same for several Forschner kitchen knives, which are very thin and don't need much of a bevel. Have done a bunch of filing on pitted and "polished" guns and gun parts. Got good at it, and can make them dead flat and crisp again with straight lines and square corners. My buddy, our gunsmith here, tells me about now much draw filing and file shaping they had to do back when he apprenticed as a tool maker... and yeah, he is REAL good at it. Most of our carving and stocking tools,and knives, a file won't touch, but if it did... we'd use it set the edge before honing it. Whatever works best, and sharp is sharp, no mater how you get there. All the best; Bill

I am with Penny, Jim, and George and a few others in that I don't think files should go any where near a knife (and broadheads once the angle is set).

That said, yes there are occassions and knife types where it is acceptable and there are emergencies.

To the guys that are getting all wound up because they can use a file to get a scary edge. You all admit that it requires a skill to do it. Many people don't have the skill to get an edge with guides and stones and 98% sharp knife to start with. Yet you spout on about how great a file sharpening is.

This forum isn't to sput off how great you and your skill set are. It's main purpose is share information. Beating the drum that the most difficult manner to accomplish something is the way to go doesn't help the guy that really isn't good at holding an angle while trying to sharpen something.

I just went and googled "sharpening drawknives" and in a page and a half no method recommends file sharpening, only various grit sand paper blocks or stones.

Sometimes the most difficult ways at first end up being the simplest and most efficient in the end..... i.e. traditional bowhunting.

It does not take that much effort to get a BH or a knife sharp with just a file....then you can do it in the field without a shop and bench grinder. If I can learn to do it anyone can.

Cutting stuff and killing deer does not require a precision laser. How did we ever survive in the old days??

hvac, I just want to watch you take a nice Case or Buck knife and grind it sharp on a bench grinder. Most guys here would kick you in the rear for that.

In my experience, a files works well on soft steels but require firm pressure and leave coarse marks in hard steels. A file is a good tool for a shovel, hoe, axe, draw knife or machete. Stones and abrasives work better on hard steels. A butchers steel or leather strop are useful for honing and maintaining a straight edge.

Think about it. A file is hardened steel, quality knife blades are hardened approaching similar hardness. Knifes are sometimes made form old files and rasps. Sharpening hardened blades with a file probably dulls the file.

Sorry Dan... meant no disrespect, and didn't mean to come aross as spouting off or beating on any drums. Would never give anyone on here a bum steer. Was talking about what can be done and easily learned with a little practice.... on SOME tools with a good file used properly. Lift it at the end of each stroke, keep it chalked and card it out when it starts to pin up. When filing is the wrong way to go, the file will let you know.... and so will the tool or knife.

Again...appologies to anyone who took this as me saying their way is wrong..... and I'd bend over backwards to help them learn to freehand file if they were so inclined. Just like all the guys who taught me did.

Bill

Penny Banks x2.

I use a mill bastard on my Collins Michigan-style axe, and stones for the rest.

As for sharpening- as a PFC, I shaved with a straight razor until my Warrant Officer in the MPs got all pissy about it and made me use a safety razor like the other guys in my platoon.....

TinHorn

Speaking of cutting edges .If I buy a Stanley plane or spoke shave I throw out the blades and use English Record blades.These are tungsen vanadium blades and hold an edge about 3 times longer than a Stanley blade will. Yeah I still adhere to my comment that good knives have hard cutting edges. Cheap ones don't. Badger who is your cutler , cause I wouldn't want him to build me a knife.

OSR

I sometimes use a file on an edged tool if the edge really needs to be reworked.

Even then, unless it's a new (sharp) file and a soft blade, the file mostly skates and doesn't cut much. I gouge with the edge of the file using it similar to a scraper.

If it's handy, I'll use a belt or wheel sander too. Just keep the blade cool.

I wouldn't use a file to finish the edge. I don't even do that on axes and hatchets.

What difference does it make? They are all removing metal to make the edge very, very narrow. (Except a steel or strop, they primarily "line up" the edge) IF you have the skill and are careful you can sharpen with a stone, file, or grinding wheel. How do you think most cutting edges are put on as items are manufactured - with a grinder. They don't have some guy in the back room with a soft Arkansas stone sharpening every knife that rolls off the line. Just use a light hand and learn how to do it. The main difference between a grinding wheel and a hand stone is just the speed it's turning. Just don't let the blade heat up.

A file - as long as the item being sharpened is softer than the file, most quality knives are too hard for a file. If you're worried about removing too much material get a 2nd cut or smooth file.

slayer

correct at least somebody knows what is going on here been trying to say that and it seems to be falling on deaf ears.it is almost like talking to bunch of politicians cannot see the trees for the forest .

Please tell me a Japanese Katana isn't a sharp weapon. Apart from the 1 month or more of polishing and sharpening it takes to finish one ,there ain't one file to be seen.Its all stones that achieve that level of perfection.OK mass produced knives can't be done that way but abrasive belts and polishing media is used .If a blade has any quality to it then files won't work. Lesser knifes will file sharpen but that cutting edge will require touching up more frequently during use than a hard edge one. For a short period Viking swords had some of the finest steel ever to grace a blade.For about 100 years they used real pure cricible steel.This rivals katana's steel and even modern non stainless steels.I don't want a knife that I could file sharpen. OSR

Just out of curiosity, for you folks that won't touch a knife,assuming a file will cut it, or a broadhead, what does it hurt?

hvacman, Please take no offense from those of us who are not eagar to apply even the finest Nicholson files to our best knives..

I have many thousands of hours with hand on good files used properly for various tasks.. My own knife sharpening preferences are simply my own experiences and preferences..Did not intend to diss anyone who does otherwise..ESP who know how to use files better than my own skills allow..;)

ButchMo.. I think the primary issue with files or power grinders on fine edged tools is that they work FASTER than the hand methodologies of stones, hones & oil etc.. These methods require some training and skill of course..

BUT:

For those unschooled in the use of files or power grinders etc..that simply means a fellow can mess up a project a whole lot faster ..:)

Some of enjoy the slower methods also..I'm retired..so IF it takes me a couple of hours for small projects..that's OK..:) Jim

As a note on useing files..and I'd invite Sivits(hvactech) or others to elaborate..

Files are NOT used like a saw.. They are designed to cut-smooth and shape by driving the file in a single direction..(NOT PUSH PULL)

Moreover, the angle of the file on the work will have tremendous influence on the smoothness of the cutting and lack of 'file marks'..Sometimes 90 degrees for the stroke..sometimes at a more acute angle..

For filing a bevel..the file must be consistently used in the proper angle for that desired bevel..else one can get a rounded substandard bevel ..NOT what one wants for an edged weapon or tool..

Files get dull..need to be cleaned-carded( wood or metal)

They also should never be thrown ina big box with other steel files etc as that is not proper care of this tool..

Lastly, the size and type of the file..( as well as it quality) will greatly effect your finished results..I have used Nicholson files for years and they are good files..Jim

Jim, I understand about a grinder. My question was more to get people to respond to the file. So many folks get their panties in a knot & have never tried & don't have any hands on experience. Still, they spout off & belittle people who do.

I understand about the care & use of fine edged tools. I'm a wood carver & would never treat my tools poorly. I also wouldn't use a file on a knife. It's a poor choice when compared to a diamond stone or a fine whetstone.

I do appreciate your response.

ttt for hvactech..and others..Jim

We do some woodcarving also Butch.... Some with chainsaws.....

hvactech..earlier..(and I missed this post of yours..)

you wrote.. ..."your tools look like more for show than go .."

I won't take offense at your assessmnet..but other than the Al Mar engraved fighting knife every one of those larger knives and the Swedish Steel-Italian made Roman belt axe have been used quite a bit for butchering-boning and honed and stropped more than a few times...:)

I don't chop bone or wood with any of them..( OR hack thru bolts useing a mammer on the blade's back like those old Buck commercials) Never nicked any of them and so resurfaceing and honing up the blade edges with even a good file in my own hands wasn't required..:) I wear a short beard and moustache..so I've not needed to use any of them like a strait razor..:)Jim

..... and some with chisles and gouges, and most of the big qouges have had the bevels put on the INSIDE of the radius.... with grinders .... and files. And then honed with slips to finish them. Not archery related I understand. Best;

Bill

Parts of archery and trad bowmaking involve edged tools..Properly sharpened and used.. and cared for..

Depends on how deeply a person wishes to get into this sport and craft..:)BUT worth hearing and learning about..:)

This is a pic of one of my powered tools I use for edges when I don't want to take a nap useing the arkansas stones.. I can hone a dozen two blade broadheads to TRUE razor sharpness in less than 12 minutes..Three gentle passes alternately applied to each edge either side.

It's a powered wheel like a grinder..equipped with a rubber flexible wheel and the 200-1000 grit wet sanding belts and a leather belt used with jeweler's rouge..

It's a lapidairy tool predominantly..but has it purposes for finishing edges and sharpening anything absolutely scary sharp.

The flexible ribber 8" wheel allows ya to slip the belt on loosely..and when fired up to minimum RPM...the expanding rubber wheel hold the round paper or leather firmly..yet has some cushion for the finer work.... Remember:

Power tools and fast cutting tools work so long as the operator knows how and when to use them and has the right touch....otherwise..they can create damage and problems pretty fast..:) Jim

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