I have a Damon Howatt Hunter, which I bought about 20 years ago. I haven't shot it in ages, but picked it up the other day and am going to get some arrows properly spined for it. (65# @28" - far heavier than the 48# yew longbow I'm currently shooting, and probably too heavy for my bad back.)

Problem is, it's currently ugly as a coyote with bad mange. When I last used it to hunt with (20 yrs ago) I gave it a quick and fast camo job with spray paint from rattle cans.

Now I'd really like to see the nice wood I know is laying under that paint.

What would be the best way to remove the spray paint without damaging the finish under it? Howatt made some real pretty bows, and I'd like to see it as it came from the factory.

Thanks for your help! Joe

Lacquer thinner, rags and elbow grease will do the trick.

Some folks may prefer acetone.

Experiment with either lacquer thiner or acetone..or bot. Wet some 0000 steel wool and have some old cotton rags handy.. Gently rub the acetone wetted 0000 steel wool on a small area until the pain it removed..Then wipe down with the cloth wtted in either acetone or lacquer thinner.. Take your time and don't rub too hard on the limb edges or sharper contours of the Howatt Hunter.

Mostly elbow greas and patience to remove the old camo paint.. When the paint is all removed..Look the original finish over and see how it looks.. If necessary, old finish may need to be rubbed out a tad and then a new coat of finish applied..

If you add some new finish, work with bow and finish in at least a 70F ambient.. I use Deft clear satin finish in a rattle can and it works fine if surface is prepped and wiped clean of dust and old resudue..Jim

one of those green scotch-brite pads from walmart and some covergirl 100% acetone finger nail polish remover and elbow grease.If that does not work some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper will bd

Whoa, hang on. Acetone is tricky as it will melt original finish too and care must be taken. Try something like Goof-Off and steel wool first and acetone if that isn't strong enough. Even then you must take care to avoid drips and runs going places you don't want it too.

A lot will depend on what paint you used way-back-when as to how easy or tough it is to remove.

As Don, Phil, Jim and others will relate, we don't want to remove the original finish beneath.

The bow is most likely Rosewood if its an older HHunter. That can cause complications. In the day, finishes didn't have UV protection. As the oil in rosewood receded over time, the wood often fades to a lighter shade. But once the wood is bare again, it sometimes re-darkens on it's own, and most all new finishes will also re-darken the wood. BUT, But, but... that original finish penetrated to differing depths depending on the wood's density, end grain etc. Sometimes, in some places the original finish is in the wood more deeply than others. So deep that it can't easily be removed or sanded away. You can end up with light/dark splotches. Ugly!

Go easy, save the original finish underneath.

Rick

I used Latex paint remover on one bow that I did. Worked very will with the scotch brite pads. If the decal needs replacing, I have some of the DH logos.

Good luck

Dave

Just checked my post above, and I see Dave Sanches has chimed in.

I was thinking of you yesterday Dave, as I had to pull my camper out of the Wisconsin woods before the "BIG SNOW" hit today.

Small Pop-ups don't need a license plate, so I took an old one, painted it white and laid on that big black Howatt Logo you sent me way back. Looks cool, and I probable have the only DH license plate in-da-world.

Rick

Rick, I've never hurt the finish on any old bow using acetone or lacquer thinner. Not that I'm an expert but I'm sure bowdoc or dire wolf, who have done far more bows than I have, wouldn't recommend it if it would cause problems.

Phil, yes, with experience acetone is powerful and works fine. Just maybe no need to use something with that strength unless lesser methods don't do the trick.

AND, sometimes when re-doing the riser and limbs separately, drips and runs onto places already finished can cause grief.

My main caution is the light/dark issue if acetone eats the camo AND finish beneath. That is why I suggest a more gentle approach first.

Rick

I scrape all the ones that I refinish.

Send it to the Bow Hospital, He does great work and can even reduce the weight.

Yorktown Where were you hunting in Wisconsin?

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