From: Nemah
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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I know this subject has been covered before.........I checked the archives. But....no matter what I try, I can't seem to close up the pores on a Zebrawood and Padauk riser. So far: 5 coats of superglue, sanding between each coat. 4 coats of a water based grain filler, sanding between each coat. 3 more coats of superglue gel, sanding between coats. Looked good to go, so I sprayed on a coat of gloss Thunderbird, and wham! Every pore seemed to pop out in all their glory, laughing at me! I usually burn projects at this stage, but I'd thought I'd check with all of you before I run this bow through my bandsaw and into the fire! Now what?
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From: stykzz
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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How much are you sanding the sealer? As soon as you see wood dust, STOP! (Ideally you shouldn't even get that far).
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From: GF
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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I've got no idea about the finer points of woodworking. But that was my first thought... Seems like an awful lot of taking off whatever you'd just put on.
Are you concerned about moisture getting in, or is it strictly a cosmetic thing? 'Cuz you know, those girls with the perfect skin never seem to age too well anyway.
And if it's only an appearance issue, better to give it away than to trash it.
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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I guy in Georgia told me to thin the epoxy like water about 100 reduction with epoxy reducer. I put on 1 coat walk away 1 1/2 later another,until 4 or 5 coats are established the last 2 to 3 are a little thicker about 7-8 coats.the thin coats soak into wood,they break surface tension. than I sand smooth a couple days later. This epoxy is done with gray foam brush and only on wood edges sand all down 320grt and spray entire bow. Here is one i just did. Jeff F
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From: bodymanbowyer
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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You could be sanding to much into the wood. I putt that many coats on so when I sand the pits will be filled high enough not to leave spit for sanding dust to be pushed back in the pores. Jeff F
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From: M60gunner
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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I seen some real nice bows except for the finish. If you insist on using the super glue finish you may try that locktite mentioned above to fill those pores. The trick is using a syringe to force the glue into the pores.
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From: Fisher
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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Here is my philosophy on bows and women. No visible pores allowed.
A good finish on a bow is like good makeup on a beautiful gal. Use just enough to bring out the natural beauty. Then, when you look at the bow or gal, you don't see the finish or makeup, you see the beauty of the wood or gal.
Now a nice recurve riser should have plenty of shapely curves showing voluptuous fullness. A beautiful gal should . . . Well, yea!
I better stop now.
Best wishes.
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From: MStyles
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Date: 30-Oct-14 |
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Make sure the wood is free of sawdust first. Then using a furniture crayon, rubbing it on heavily into the pores of the wood. That will fill them. You might have to do this 3 times at the most. Then take a rag and buff the excess off, leaving the pores filled. Then start with a coat of sanding sealer, and take it from there. Those crayons come in different colors. I've had good results, glass smooth is my goal.
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From: Seahorse
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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I love zebra wood, but I too just finished a takedown and after 9 coats of varnish I decided to just live with the remaining dimples. Would be nice to find a solid cure for those pores.
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From: camodave
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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Take a look at the website for GB Linspeed...we have a thing in North America about trying to make things into something they are not...if you want wood to look like plastic use plastic...if you want wood to look like wood then unfilled pores are what you are looking for...sealed yes...filled not so much...I started to fill the hole in this riser just above the shelf and then I realized that is the way that piece of wood is meant to be...I may do all sorts of other work on that bow but that will never be filled
DDave
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From: blue monday
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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I build up my finish with a few coats of gloss then sand it flat and finish with two coats of a flat finish. IThe sanding is what gets those holes to come out flat.Just finished this Zebrawood bow and had no problems.
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From: killinstuff
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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I've only made one riser but have built and fitted a fair number of shotgun and rifle stocks and the best product is stock filler from Brownells. Just wipe it on before any finish is applied and sand. It's what the pro stock makers use and is the base for any high end hand rubbed oil finis . It might be to late to use is you have 5 coats of something already on.
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From: wTk
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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killinstuff what is the name of the product? I see several on their site. Thanks
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From: killinstuff
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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Stock filler is what it's called. I haven't had a catalog in a while so not sure all what they currently carry. It has extremely fine silica particles in it that fill the pores when you wipe it on. I light wet sand with 1000 grit then redo. Wet sand and redo til it perfect.
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From: 4nolz@work
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Date: 31-Oct-14 |
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Use superglue gel apply heavily
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From: Nemah
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Date: 03-Nov-14 |
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Thanks for all the suggestions! It's been several days since I sprayed on a coat or Thunderbird gloss. So...... Let's go from there. I'm thinking of sanding lightly and applying a few more coats of brushed on Thunderbird, hoping it will fill the grain. Then two more spray-on coats. Think that will work?
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