Here's a question for all of you diehard fletchers out there. I want to start assembling my own arrows in the near future, and as a model I want to use a couple of vintage arrows I have. They're painted yellow, with red & yellow fletching & a red crest. Here's my question: if I use yellow gasket lacquer, would I need to clear coat or would the lacquer be sufficient, & if not, could I use wipe on polyurethane or spray on spar varnish? Also, would Duco work with either of those products? I plan on using model paint for the cresting, as it's cheap & readily available. My other option is to use aniline dyes offered by Valley Trad Archery, I like their set up & they're inexpensive and come in a bunch of different colors. I know I'd have to use clear coat on that, my only question there is if I could use model paints for the cresting? Thanks guys, I appreciate your help.

The yellow gasket lacquer is compatible with Duco and will work fine, however I think gasket is a very poor arrow finish, because it is so thick and dries instantly it doesn't attach itself to the shaft, it merely lays on the surface. Once the surface is scratched through the finish, moisture can get under it and it will peel off. A lot of people us it, but its not my choice. Bob

I like to get universal colorants from the paint store and mix them with shellac, and then proceed with polyurethane. Also nowadays I prefer E6000 for an adhesive instead of Duco.

You can spray or dip the shaft in yellow paint. I have also used Feibing's yellow leather dye (alcohol-based) with great success on shafts.

I crest with acrylic paint and use Minwax wipe-on oil-based poly. This "opposite" solvent avoids erasing the acrylic.

If you're using enamel model paint, you may desire to use a water-based wipe-on (opposite solvent) so that it won't erase the cresting (been there - done that!).

I believe that some folks use compatible cresting paint and poly, yet lightly spray multiple coats over the cresting before really nailing the finish into place to avoid erasing. But I have had my own best luck with opposites in the equation.

I dye, stain, or paint the shaft ... couple thin coats of poly ... crest ... at least four to six more coats poly until the finish looks deep.

Have fun however you proceed!

Absolutely agree with aromakr on the gasket lacquer.

Thanks fellas, that gives me some stuff to think about.

Guys, lacquer is not a good water barrier, nor can you heat the shaft to straighten it once lacquer is used. I absolutely heat straighten my shafts after the finish is applied if they still need it. Minwax poly or Tru Oil will both let you use heat after they are applied. Just be careful and don't get them too hot. Duco is compatible with both products and I have never had a feather come off.Last Saturday I found an arrow that I had lost this spring in my stump shooting area. After all this time the shaft was still spinner straight although the blunt head was rusty and the feathers were shot. The feathers were still firmly attached and I had to scrape them off with my knife. The shaft was not swollen at all and I cleaned it up and recoated it today.You could never do this with lacquer. Good shooting and good arrow building to you all. Don.

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