I had John "the bow hospital" refinish 2 of my bows and his work is well worth the wait.

Two of the best are bowdoc and Rich Lopez. You're likely facing a wait with any good refinisher.

Yep, you're probably gonna have to wait....

Rick Rappe ,goes by Yorktown5 here. Great work and starts around $85.

If all it needs is refinishing....no repairs needed....have you thought of trying to do it yourself? It seems overwhelming at first but it really isn't a big deal to sand off and old finish and put a new finish back on. Just take your time, use fine grit paper, and don't get into the glass. Lots of good, very detailed how-to's out there.

I refinished my '60 Grizzly only using steel wool. I sprayed it with spar varnish and it looks great. It wasn't hard at all, even for me. A guy who can't make a toothpick from a Sequoia. Here's a pic of the Grizzly not the Sequoia. Frank

Toothpick from Sequoia, that's good lol:) Jeff F

A 55 Kodiak is about the least work, and as simple and quick as it gets! A bottle of Tru-Oil, some fine sandpaper , and some 0000 steel wool is about all you need! May not even need the sandpaper! I sure wouldn't pay someone and wait a year or longer! Or....if that is impossible or " overwhelming" get ahold of Rick Rappe.

I refinished this old browning. Sanded the old finish, applied 5 coats of spray on spar varnish and polished with powdered pumice.

Also did this old Ben Pearson with helsman spar urethane. I don't care for that stuff though.

I'm in the process of a refinish. Finally just got the nerve to do it. It's been surprisingly simple thus far. Time will tell... Lots of 'how to's" out there to help.

Phillip, I sand with 220grt then finish sand with 320grt. I use a DA sander keep it (flat),you won't have to worry about over sanding if you just remove finish and smooth. I takes a hard sanding to drop much pounds. Jeff F

On that '55 I would tape over the decals before the sanding to preserve originality. You can always "feather" the area before applying the finish. As others said, it's pretty easy to do and very self-satisfying.

If you're concerned about sanding the fiberglass I would scrape the old finish off with a knife blade, razor blade or utility knife blade. Then lightly sand with 400 grit paper. You'll clearly see any finish that you missed.

I pretty did what others said, 220 grit on a flat sander. Curved areas like the grip throat and tips done by hand. When I used the snader on the limbs there were always some finish that was stubborn so instead of continuous samder use I did those areas by hand.

I try to use a scraper as much as I can. Mine is the back of a knife blade and works well and doesn't leave sanding marks. Can't always do that though and you still need to sand in the curved grip area. I wouldn't want to do it for others though but I don't mind doing it for myself or to clean one up for resale.

Currectly sharpened cabinet scrapers work well for removing the bulk of the old finish. I use curved scrapers on the flat surfaces of the limbs and straight ones on the curvey risers and grip areas... then sand with 240 grit. It hastens the process.

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