Traditional Archery Discussions on the Leatherwall


Smallgame points

Messages posted to thread:
northerner 15-Sep-14
deerhunt51 15-Sep-14
George D. Stout 15-Sep-14
Boomerang 15-Sep-14
Acadien 15-Sep-14
RymanCat 15-Sep-14
Dan In MI 15-Sep-14
stagetek 15-Sep-14
Jeff Durnell 15-Sep-14
GLF 15-Sep-14
Jim B 15-Sep-14
reddogge 15-Sep-14
r-man 15-Sep-14
Dream Catcher@work 15-Sep-14
Acadien 15-Sep-14
Tuckerdog 15-Sep-14
Skeets 15-Sep-14
Stumpkiller 15-Sep-14
MikeW 15-Sep-14
JustSomeDude 15-Sep-14
reddogge 16-Sep-14
northerner 16-Sep-14
Scoop 16-Sep-14
GF 16-Sep-14
two4hooking 16-Sep-14
Dogsoldier 18-Sep-14
From: northerner
Date: 15-Sep-14




The small-game season opened here today! What arrow points do you prefer for rabbits and grouse? Ace Hex, Field Point with Adders, blunts, Judos, homemade mini-broadheads, other?

Thanks

From: deerhunt51
Date: 15-Sep-14




I actually use old braodheads I no longer use for deer. Most of my shots are on the ground, broadheads do stick in trees.

From: George D. Stout Compton's Traditional Bowhunters
Date: 15-Sep-14




Go to the hardware store and get some wider washers to fit behind your field points. Cheap and effective. For wood arrows you can get steel blunts, Hex Heads etc., that work very well. Rabbits are easy to kill, but a grouse can get away with a blunt hit. I have a couple modified bodkins that I cut notches out of the blades to slow down penetration on squirrels and grouse. Avoid high angle shots with broaheads due to common sense issues.

From: Boomerang
Date: 15-Sep-14




VPA SGT's! http://www.vparchery.com/sgt.php

From: Acadien
Date: 15-Sep-14




The CHEAPO WAY Works great for small game/ birds. Drill a hole in a COKE bottle cap to fit your screw on points. VOILA. cheap, drops them cold, arrows won't skate. Even better in SNOW. now beat that on price. If you don't have a drill. Then 3 rivers has a bunch at $12/3pk :))

From: RymanCat
Date: 15-Sep-14

RymanCat's embedded Photo



Been using these and like them.

From: Dan In MI
Date: 15-Sep-14




"The CHEAPO WAY Works great for small game/ birds. Drill a hole in a COKE bottle cap to fit your screw on points. VOILA. cheap, drops them cold, arrows won't skate. Even better in SNOW. now beat that on price"

Will Mountain Dew or Faygo work? ;-)

I assume you are talking steel bottle caps, not plastic 20 oz type.

From: stagetek Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 15-Sep-14




I use the old Bodkin heads. If dogs are involved, Judo heads.

From: Jeff Durnell Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 15-Sep-14




Magnus Small Game head. It's a steel blunt with a broadhead bleeder blade inserted. Works awesome.

From: GLF
Date: 15-Sep-14




I've tried everything even to drilling holes in field points or blunts and driving nails thru the holes then clipping them off leaving 3/8" sticking out on all 4 sides. Blunts work fine for most things. I use ace hex heads for my ground arrows for squirrels. Blunts for tree shots.

From: Jim B
Date: 15-Sep-14

Jim B's embedded Photo



I've also been using the VPA Small Game Thumpers.They are devastating on small game.

From: reddogge Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 15-Sep-14

reddogge's embedded Photo



My rabbit heads from old 70s broadheads and a modified blunt.

From: r-man
Date: 15-Sep-14




three rivers has some sweet ones for near nothing, some just fit behind yr field point

From: Dream Catcher@work
Date: 15-Sep-14




Wing nuts sharpened with a file or grinder will work.

From: Acadien
Date: 15-Sep-14

Acadien's embedded Photo



Putting all that bull aside. This is the best US small game point on the market. End of story. Thank you Coke From all us Canucks to you all. It works great. GROUSe/ RABITT/ Squirrel

From: Tuckerdog
Date: 15-Sep-14




judos for rabbits, old broadheads for groundhogs, and been using the old adders that screw on behind field points for squirrels but down to one so will be watching this thread for ideas. coyotes are all broadheads and are usually targets of opportunity while deer hunting, darned tuff critters, have seen them take a shot thru the slats from 87grn v-max in 243 with healthy dose of 4350 and go quite a way

From: Skeets
Date: 15-Sep-14




Acadien has a great idea there. I don't drink beer , but I bet I would have no trouble getting bottle caps. Free. For stumps I like the SGT's and judos. Skeet

From: Stumpkiller
Date: 15-Sep-14




Acadien wins! Can't use it myself as I glue heads on tapered wood.

For bunnies I like the Ace Hex or the Hammer trom Three Rivers (like a glue-on four prong VPA).

I don't shoot grouse on the ground, or arrows at flying birds, but If I was hungry a Judo would probably be my choice.

I came across 32 Hi-Precision three-blade broadheads for cheap (1/4 the price of a Judo) and have been having fun on small game and stumps with those. Work great for squirrels and rabbits caught on the ground and still.

From: MikeW
Date: 15-Sep-14




Acadien

How long do those last shooting rabbits,logs rocks ect.

I ain't so broke I can't offered a dollar or two for a bag of washers or dry wall anchors but pretty neat idea,

???

From: JustSomeDude
Date: 15-Sep-14




After watching the Video where Jack Zwickey chops down a tree using Judo points, I ordered a few. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nw80oc0ifM

The have been great. Not cheap, but they work

Blunt points I used were prone to bouncing/skipping off with a bad hit. The Claws that fit behind field points would get bent and don't absorb the shock of the hit.

The Blades on a Magnus small game head fell off and another one got stuck in a tree root and I couldn't get it out.

From: reddogge Professional Bowhunters Society - Qualified Member
Date: 16-Sep-14




I found the biggest thing with bunnies is you don't want the arrow to pull out so it stays with the rabbit. Too many small diameter heads pull out and the rabbit gets away.

From: northerner
Date: 16-Sep-14




I'm guessing that the bow weight is a factor in determining a suitable small-game point. I'm not so sure that a blunt would be a good choice for a 35 pound bow. Maybe with lighter bows it would be best to dispatch the grouse/rabbit with internal bleeding or only head/neck shots with blunts.

I'm thinking about sharpening the 8 mini-blades on an Adder and using it with a Saunders Combo Point. This should give penetration and internal destruction with a lighter drawing bow. Cost is reasonable too.

Heavier bows (50+ lbs) should be fine with Hex heads, Judos, and blunts.

Comments are welcome on the above suggestions...

From: Scoop Professional Bowhunters Society - Associate Member
Date: 16-Sep-14




Steel blunts and tough ribtek broadheads for rabbits and grouse. You don't waste much meat with either one. A big rubber blunt also works well on cottontails regarding penetration issues, and pretty darn good on ruff grouse, but I've only shot a couple with them.

From: GF
Date: 16-Sep-14




Well, there are blunts and there are blunts.

I’ve never had any luck dropping a squirrel with a rubber blunt outside of a solid head-shot or using a tree trunk as an anvil, but an Ace hex seems like it would be fairly decisive, even on a squirrel… I’ve got a few but no hunting report on them yet…

Judos are great for about anything on the ground. I’ve hit blue grouse in the back end at take-off, though, and they can glide off plenty far enough to never be seen again. The impact just accelerates them and the head doesn’t penetrate deep enough to make a quick job of it…

Curious about the bottle caps… I’ve got a lifetime supply, but is there some secret sauce for getting them perfectly centered, or is it just not that critical?

I’m wondering if it could possibly get any better than a dubbed broadhead with a cap behind it….

From: two4hooking
Date: 16-Sep-14

two4hooking's embedded Photo



.38 or .357 with a nail in the primer hole. use a nail as a punch around the wood and you don't even need glue.

From: Dogsoldier
Date: 18-Sep-14




I have always used regular field points because they work great and they are very cheap.





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