So I wear out my 3d target vitals atleast once a year with field tips and broadheads. Gets expensive replacing the vitals. I have seen a few videos where guys suggest using spray foam, seems to work well. Has anyone used this method, if so does it stand up to arrows?

This may sound somewhat unconventional but it works for me.I got tired of replacing my vitals so now I shoot at my 3D deer with the vitals removed. My aiming point remains the same but now is the opening in the deer's side. I have a box filled with newspaper on the ground behind the target and my arrows pass through the hole and into the box. I should say here that I practice from an elevated position so the box on the ground works perfect.

This works better than the cans you buy at HD, but it's a tad pricey.

http://www.cherokee-sports.com/p-15-magic-fix-101-individual- archery-target-repair-kit.aspx

We have repaired many targets using the foam, but we do try to put chunks of old target in the hole to fill the space.

They sell the "Magic Fix" through Amazon too. I ordered some the other day. It seems expensive but it seems like it will do 3 repairs.

I shot out the middle of just one side of my target. Don't want (or need) to replace the whole vitals section and I'm only doing one target so it seems like less trouble than using Spray foam and painting etc...

get the High density 8 or 10 # foam kits. Viking plastics sells them. Theatrical supply stores also sell it for making body moulds etc.

Thanks everyone I will keep all suggestions for the future. For now I just used spray insulation foam with a old chunk of target inside. I will see how it holds up. if it works for a while for $8 I wont complain. Thanks again.

Here is the way you do it with Great stuff foam;

This coyote was in as bad a shape as it could be.

get a tube of construction adhesive for your caulking gun, stick the spout in the arrow holes ,, squeeze on the way out,, hole filled, should be almost permanent. {hint courtesy of jamesv}

Stuck together with old arrows shafts and wrapped with plastic.

This is some of the other targets I fixed that day after shooting the foam into the voids.

After the foam cures I remove the plastic, trim off the excess foam with a knife and file the contours back into the target.

A little paint and the target is back in service.

The leopard was shot up almost as bad as the coyote, a little foam and paint has it looking just fine.

I fixed a Foam McKenzie target using Spray Foam....I can shoot it with my heavier Bow/Arrow combo any more. The Arrows bury all the way to the Fletching.

You really need some higher density filler in there. Rubber Mulch mixed with Spray Foam would probably work.

I fix mine like Eric does also. (I try not to wait until it breaks in half though). :>)

I pick up shot-up targets that are sold after big archery tournaments. The coyote was $5, the leopard was $20. I have acquired 19 so far and by having so many the shots at any individual target are minimized so they last a long time. I have some McKenzie deer that I have been shooting for the past 30 years. I have several extra center sections that I keep patched and painted to swap out with any that start showing too much wear.

Plastic wrap and shoot in some insulation foam for me.

Another thing that works really well is a great big bottle of Gorilla Glue. That stuff is water-activated and really expands when you get it wet. Just pour it in the area you want to fix and mist it with a spray bottle of water. When it starts to foam, use a wood paint spatula and smear it around evenly.

I think it holds up better than the foam-in-a-can.

Darren

I find the foam made for outdoor use around water features more durable and is UV stable, it does cost more and is black or gray. I pack the back of the worn spot with rags or fibers first to prevent shoot throughs.

I use the spray foam as well but found if I stuck BBQ skewers as dowels , The foam moulded around the dowels and made the fix last about 30% longer. Once dried and cured I also trim the bubbles using a carpet knife for the big stuff. I apply Black Tremclad to my bear and it lasts quite a long time.. A GOOD POSSIBLE DO IT YURSELF 3D target if your at all Artistic would be to build a reed web in the shape of a critter. Have not tried yet but planning on it. Fill the shape slowly with the spay foam Layered. Then you have a foundation to build on. I'll et you know how it turns out. They also sell Xmas deer Lawn ornaments meshed into the shape. Depending on its price could also be a starting point. I see them all the time woven together using a small dia cane. NOT METAL:)

Im also thinking of applying a skin of Plastic screen or Lanscape cloth to give it better form and limiting the amount of overflow from the expanding fom 3D targets are great but the $300++++++ prices are not practice for the average Archer. That's what Clubs are for. The 10Acre facility is also an expensive add on to your Archery budget.

I just used the "Magic Fix" It expanded more than it looked like it would. I left the repair thick...figure it will last longer.

If I had wrapped the plastic wrap in the same direction as the fur texture it who'd have matched pretty well.

The foam it makes is NOT self healing. I hope it lasts a while. It's basically high density foam that is already Brown

I repaired a large hole and used half of the kit. I could have used less. 3 repairs from one kit would have been easy. I'll still get two

Darren, I'm going to use that Gorilla glue idea to patch small holes in the non vital parts of the target. Particularly in the belly. Too many low hits and it will eventually split in half

Darren said "Another thing that works really well is a great big bottle of Gorilla Glue. That stuff is water-activated and really expands when you get it wet. Just pour it in the area you want to fix and mist it with a spray bottle of water. When it starts to foam, use a wood paint spatula and smear it around evenly."

I've fixed quite a few targets and use the foam that most guys have already suggested. The problem was that after a minimal amount of shooting the foam started to deteriorate and fall out in small chunks,,,so instead of wrapping the body with plastic wrap I go to the local coffee shop and get some burlap coffee bags and use 4 inch strips to wrap the area to be fixed. The foam will cure to the burlap and creates a skin that increases the life of the repair substantially

I would think that putting wads and/or sheets of fiberglass (auto body or drywall repair) in deep holes would help too. Burlap might be just as good.

I use an extra long drill bit to bore in several deep hole. Wrap in plastic, then foam from the bottom of the drilled holes. As I squeeze the trigger, the foam seeps out all over. Then treat like Eric. The drill seems yo gett some foam deeper, easier

I have used Magic Fix and now I can say it's JUNK.I always blamed myself for mixing incorrectly or something?The stuff does a bad job,and over time gets hard. You can fix targets like a pro with Target Master repair supplies.The results will be very pleasing. Go to www.3 DCountry.com for details. Sounds like I'm a salesman for George and I guess I am Except I'm Not a payed salesman. My targets all came from ranges after they were used up and I have suffered through all the different fixes until finding the REAL sollution.

I have used Magic Fix and now I can say it's JUNK.I always blamed myself for mixing incorrectly or something?The stuff does a bad job,and over time gets hard. You can fix targets like a pro with Target Master repair supplies.The results will be very pleasing. Go to www.3 DCountry.com for details. Sounds like I'm a salesman for George and I guess I am Except I'm Not a payed salesman. My targets all came from ranges after they were used up and I have suffered through all the different fixes until finding the REAL sollution.

Bigfoot - construction adhesive in the arrow holes? Are we talking PL Premium here? I would think that would be too hard and brittle once dry... Now a latex or acrylic caulking might be about the right consistency...

Liquid nails will hold up, spray foam is a waste of time and money.

I've tried a bunch of methods and materials. Only one worked like it should...even better than an original Delta or MacKenzie. The absolute best I've found is from 3Dtargetrepairfoam.com. I dealt with the guy from Idaho, and thought he was the owner(and, he said, a traditional bowhunter!) But the website now also lists a location in AZ. It's expensive, but it's worth it if you have some expensive targets to fix. And, yes, it helps if you have some creative ways to fill up some of the shot out spaces in your target.

But, his stuff is incredibly self-healing....about like a Rinehart 3d when you mix it right. It's applied like some of the other two part foams, but the price makes it more important to block off every potential "push-out" spot! (You can saw those off and reuse them, but it's better to avoid if you can.) A bit of advice: heavy visqueen resists push-out, and pulls away from the foam far better than any thinner plastic!

I know, you can easily justify many applications of insulating foam, or lower priced alternatives, especially for your backyard target. But, I've fixed 6 or 8 higher dollar club targets with this stuff, and have a bit of it left for another. It is every bit as good as he claims....if you're willing to pay the price. So, if you want to fix a BIG target-or several of them- so that it is as good as new...this would be my recommendation.

ABOUT THE SAME AS ERIC AND THEN CHEEZE GRADE DOWN. ANY FOAM FILL WORKS I FOUND I NEEDED TO DUCK TAPE OR IT WILL BLOW UP . TAPING IT PUSHS BACK INTO HOLES A CREVISES. I DON'T EVEN PAINT THEM AND THEY STAY OUT ALL THE TIME.

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