From: bishotsuwa
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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I have some billets of ERC with irregular backs and really thick sapwood, I'm wanting to work the back down to a really sym. convex shape and be able to have some nice heartwood belly. I'm wanting to try some sinew. will the sinew allow me to violate the back this way? how lng should i make it?
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From: ohma2
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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Anytime you violate a back you are at risk red cedar and sinew is a good combo but not with a violated back.how long ? You would have to give alot more info.bow type, bow length, draw length.
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From: blackhawk
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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When ya remove some of the sapwood just make sure to follow the contours of the stave as close as possible...but ya don't have to have a ring chased to one ring...it can have a violated back under the sinew because the sinew is now the new back of the bow and covers the violations...when i do sinew backed ERC I basically dexrown the stave following the contours of it...i don't worry about it being on one ring because the sinew will cover any violations up...just don't make any steep violated sections and you'll be fine...I also like to get most of the sapwood off if possible... All sapwood or any ratio mix will work,but I prefer majority heartwood if I can...
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From: bradsmith2010
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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length,, double the draw,,,, 25 inch draw,,,,50 inch bow,,, this is a very general rule of thumb,, you can make the bow longer,,, less likely to break,, but very likely will shoot a little slower,,,
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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cool...you know I want to do the same thing...I have the staves dried in the barn already from a huge ERC i cut on my farm...some big billets too. Almost everyone I have seen done that held together was all sapwood with just a touch of the pretty heartwood in the grip area. I hope that everyone is right because I was thinking we could just take most of the sapwood off and let the sinew take it's place. I plan on one that's 60" with slightly flipped tips for the last few inches and a small rigid grip. I'll be watching for suggestions on width and design. Looking forward to this one! Bob
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From: Jeff Durnell
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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For bows with a stiff handle section, flares, and dips... double the draw length and add 10".
25 + 25 + 10 = 60".
Simply doubling the draw length would apply better to bows that bend through the handle.
All just general suggestions of course with plenty of room to compromise and make tradeoffs.
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From: BowAholic
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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bump for Kenny
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From: ephphatha
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Date: 28-Jul-14 |
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I had the same issue on an English longbow I made out of ERC. I wanted there to be a lot of heartwood on it and just a little sapwood on the back. I chased a ring, then backed it with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. It's transparent, and you can barely tell there's a backing on it unless you look carefully. It turned out well.
I have read about other people not backing them and getting pretty heavy bows out of it. I'm going to try my next one without backing it, but I'll be chasing a ring and avoiding knots.
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