From: WalnutBill
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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I have a fairly old ('68?) Howatt Balboa recurve that seems to have a tillering problem in that the top limb seems somewhat weaker than the bottom limb. It has noticeably more curve to it, and when I measure it from the riser fadeout to the string it is about a full inch more than the bottom limb. Is this something that I might be able to correct myself, or should I seek professional help (for the bow, not me)? Or is this really not that big of a deal anyway? The bow shoots fine as is, but I can't help but worry a bit over it. It's 48# @ 28". I own several other recurves, and none of the others have this issue. Thanks for your help.
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From: Wallydog
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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If it shoots good it cant mean too much. Id leave well enough alone
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From: George D. Stout
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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Make sure that you don't have a potential delamination going on with the top limb. If all is sound and it shoots well, you may want to let it go. You can bring it closer by sanding the belly of the bottom limb a little at a time from the fade out toward the tip for about five or six inches. If you go slow and measure from time to time, you can do it relatively easily. I think an inch is a lot, and would probably work on it myself to get closer to about 3/8th. You will lose some weight as well.
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From: WalnutBill
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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Thanks George, I thought an inch was pretty excessive too, and that's what worried me, the potential for having too much strain on the upper limb. What's the best way to sand it? I would guess about 320 grit on a sanding block?
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From: Backcountry
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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I have a '73 Howatt Hunter that was a little out of tiller. I very carefully sanded the edges of the lower limb an equal amount to bring the top limb to slightly positive tiller. Thousandths of an inch matter, so use a caliper gauge!
You can then reseal the edges (I used Loctite 420) without having to refinish the whole bow.
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From: Miceal383
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Date: 26-Jul-14 |
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Had the same issue on a recurve a while back. It was sanded too much near the fade of the belly side on the top limb. This was done from the factory. It shot fine, but I eventually sanded the opposite limb to even it out. Did lose some weight for sure. Isn't too hard but definitely use a gauge and take it slow, stringing regularly and checking the tiller often. Good luck.
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From: longbowguy
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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I start with 120 grit sandpaper. A foam sanding block works well. And I use a file held at 45%. Make full length strokes and count them. I do it by eye and leave my calipers in the box. I use tung oil finish for all bow work. It is not difficult to get a good result. - lbg
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From: WalnutBill
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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Thanks everyone. I'll try your suggestions. This is a nice bow, not as fancy as some of their other models, but has very nice wood and seems to be a really good shooter, very smooth and quiet. I would hate for a problem to develop with the limb if there's something I could do to prevent it. I'll probably refinish the whole thing after I get done with the limb problem, since it's got quite a few finish issues already. I've had very good results with some of my other bows using Tru-oil.
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From: larryhatfield
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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when you are re-tillering the bow, try measuring from the deepest part of the bend in the limbs when strung instead of the end of the fadeouts. you can measure up the limbs when unstrung and put a mark on both limbs so when you measure you will be at the same point. wooden risers are not machine made like compound bows and sometimes measuring from fadeouts gives a false tiller.
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From: WalnutBill
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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Thanks Larry. It appears that the deepest part is very near the fadeouts, but I'll check to be sure.
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From: longbowguy
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Date: 27-Jul-14 |
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Larry makes a good point.
What I described as a foam sanding block is actually named a Gator Premium Sanding Sponge. - lbg
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