JUSTIN,
I avoided responding earlier. Working backwards, Steve (SB) is known for his rather constant You can't fix it, it'll put your eye out opinions. And he is entitled to that perspective despite many successful examples to the contrary.
Next, the vertical stress lines are typically caused by a few fibers coming loose from the surface of the glass and working up through the finish, look ugly but do no real harm since there are literally millions of them in a limb.
No you can't really re-enforce the glass with an overlay at this high bend/stress area of the limb without doing the same thing to the opposite limb as well. It will add a LARGE amount to the draw weight and by stiffening the limb where it is supposed to bend you are forcing the bow to bend elsewhere, where is wasn't designed to do.
1. Get enough c-clamps to thoroughly squeeze the repair area along with a couple of those freebie wood paint stir sticks to place between the limb and the clamps so's not to mar the glass.
2. Wedge the de-lam as open as you can even trying to pull it further apart (We want to make sure we "get it all" as we won't be able to un-glue to get to a yet to give de-lam.)
3. Make sure the glue you use is meant to flex. Many are not. Even pure fiberglass resin without the glass is too brittle.
4. Have a bit too short string handy to brace the bow backwards. Doing this closes up the split and helps insure that the bend of the repaired limb will still match the contour of the opposite limb.
5. Glop in the glue insuring all the interior surfaces are covered. Better to have glue ooze to file off than a missed spot.
6. Get the reversed string on and start clamping, Lots of smaller ones make it easier to maintain the curve than a few larger clamps.
7. Extra cure time. The internal glue with no access to air takes longer to dry than the outer edges.
8. Scrape/test and refinish. Ta-da! You will have also resealed any of those loose fibers that were in the de-lam area.
Last, yes, SOP is to inject superglue into the stress lines that have broken through to the surface. Seldom does this make them disappear, just stops them from growing. Total removal requires a full strip off of all finish and a re-seal of the glass surface (often with paint) and then the replaced finish on top.
Good luck.
Rick