Well guys I will be going into my second season shooting a recurve. I am shooting a Bear Super Grizzly 45#. My arrows are gamegetter II 1916's 29 1/2" with original razorheads weighing in at 145 grains with the screw in insert. So yesterday I decided to shoot my broadheads and see how the flight was. I shot 20 yards and they were going to the right a good bit. So I got rid of the soft side plate and put a hard plastic plate on. I had some razorheads that I must have not mounted very well. So I switched them out today and shot a 20 yard group. I am pretty happy with this group considering how long I have been shooting. I think I may just practice with broadheads from here on out. I am sorry about the poor drawing on the target. For some reason I didn't get my mothers drawing talent.

Soon you will learn the hard way when shooting broadheads.. ...ONE arrow per target !

JUST what I was thinking SB!

But good shooting non the less!

The Bear Razorhead should shoot right with your field points. Good choice to go with that Grizzly.

Pretty good shooting, usually bear razorheads fly very well. I've never had. issues with them before. Mounting them on straight is a priority, as you found out. Keep practicing and you'll be ready

You wee hitting right because they were weak. You likely should have since some discrepancies in flight if you looked hard enough. Check to see if your field points hit with the broadheads now, and all have good flight. While the group isn't bad, it will get tighter if your spine is off and you correct it. And there is no good from adjusting hold to match improperly tuned arrows.

I don't know your draw length, string type, etc... but, that grizz is cut past center likely. And if your drawing better than 27 inches, your flirting with weak spine in that 1916 at that length and head weight, with that riser cut. So don't shy away from fully understanding where you are at. Make sure you are tuned by shooting both and ensuring they hit and fly like the other.

Shooting these bows isn't nearly as hard as it is made out to be on here. And in my opinion and experience, if you can't stack them in a tight group at that range pretty dang consistently, there is a reason for it other than poor accuracy, assuming you are practicing decent form. Don't be a statistic, be in charge and make sure.

If the broadheads continue to shoot right of impact from your field points, cut trim off your arrows, or build out the strike plate, or both until they hit right with them. It has been my experience that brace height won't change left r right impacts, just clean up arrow flight. So, it is a last resort option since tuning the bow to the arrow makes no earthy sense unless you have too.

I didn't mean to get long winded or direct from your accomplishments. I was just stating that you don't have to settle for something because your afraid to really address a potential short coming or problem. Besides, it'll make you a much better archer if you truly understand why you see the results you see. God Bless

If you are using the tan/green razorhead and mounting them on a broadhead adapter you need to take a round file and file down the little bumps on the inside of the ferrule. These bumps are from the indents that the bleeder snaps into. The bumps can create head wobble.

That grizzly is cut to center...with a 1/16 thick strike plate your bows dynamic requirement is about 49#. 1916's are TOO weak ! Same length arrow with a Razorhead out of mine at the same poundage ....2013..perfect flight! Sometimes shaft diameter will also enter into the equation!

Everything I've read says the newer Super grizz is cut past center like the grizz. I'm no expert but, I am right unless the info is incorrect. As far as the 70's super grizz, I'm not sure of it's riser cut. Just sayin.... Cut past center is definitely weak. God Bless

Looks good - And I rarely shoot broadheads because I have then tuned already. last season I shot two and they hit the same spot splitting an AD Trad Lite from nock to point - ARGGG! I had to Robin hood with that one shot.

Good point about one at a time!!

if your heads are mounted well and BH's give you a different point of impact, your spine is off, usually underspined

So could I get by with a 125 grain point? I am drawing 28". My draw length has gotten a little longer since I started shooting a recurve. Thanks guys.

Do you need a 29 1/2" arrow? If not, cut an inch off of it and that should bring it over where it belongs. You are drawing 45#, not 49 as mentioned above, so 1916 should be fine if not too long.

So George do you think I can stay with 145 grain or move to 125 grain? I cut it longer because the broadheads were hitting the riser as I was drawing back.

Tuning is a series of trade-offs. It may be that your arrows are underspined but, given that you have 1916 arrows and they have to be as long as they are because of your draw length, you still have the option to build out the sideplate more than you did by switching to the hard plastic one. A thicker sideplate will enable you to shoot arrows with a weaker spine. Small differences can make a big change but if you start by adding thin leather or some material behind the sideplate to make it thicker the arrows will move to the left. Just use masking tape to hold the pieces in place until you get the right thickness, then glue it in place.

It's trial and error but you can tune the bow to shoot the arrows or you can find the right arrow to shoot from the bow.

Yes he is drawing 45#...but ... The dynamic spine REQUIREMENT for a center shot bow will be 4-5 lbs. higher !

Superman77, if your not hitting the same impact with both points, your not good. Refer to cutting the arrow if possible. If not, try the lighter head or both. Or build out the side plate. It may require all, or just one of these things. Refer to my second post. It might sound good on paper to everyone including me but, if it doesn't shoot the same, it isn't. And if that is a new Super Grizzly, it is cut past center, which further weakens your spine. So tinker until both points hit the same. God Bless

It is a vintage victor super grizzly. I will do some experimenting tomorrow. I need to order me some 125 grain heads to try. Thanks

If your only drawing 28, why is the 29.5 inch arrow hitting the riser? Just wandering. Point weight probably isn't going to fix it. God Bless

I got in a bad habit of over drawing and letting back down to anchor. I have since fixed that issue. I will see how much I can take off the arrow now.

In which case you are shooting in a state of collapse.. instead of a dynamic push- pull.

I still have a lot to learn. I have come along way in the last year with the advice you guys have given. I appreciate all the help.

I understand dynamic spine. That is why I asked if he needed that long an arrow. He actually just said he was pulling way past his anchor then letting up into it. Clarification is a great thing.

If you take them down to 28, you can probably shoot your 145. I draw a little over 27" and can shoot a 28" arrow easily.

Well 29" is as short as I can cut them. If I go any less my broadheads will be hitting the riser. I guess my draw length has increased since I started shooting.

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