I am going to make up some cedar arrows for the first time and need some advice as to which glues to use for my broadheads/field points and nocks. Suggestions on what to use and what to avoid?

hotmelt

bohning hotmelt

Hotmelt for points of any kind, Duco for nocks.

Duco for nocks, epoxy for points. Just come in from doing both.

George, why Duco instead of hotmelt for nocks ?

WHAT hot melt for nocks what are you saying ?how would that work? hot melt for points duco for nocks and fletching with feathers on wood only

Just asking, have not shot wood arrows that long. (Except when I was a teenager shooting at brontosaurii !)

ok well hot melt is just that you heat it with a flame till it melts. so then you would melt the nock .you can use hot melt on wood or aluminum shafts . just use duco on the nocks and feathers when fletching wood only not aluminum and things will work fine .

Perfect. Thats what I needed. Thanks guys.

By the way both Duco and hot melt sticks are available for cheap at your hardware store. I use a candle for the hot melt but the kitchen stove will do it. - lbg

Good to know

And hotmelt doesn't have to be brand name. You can use the cheap craft store brand. Folks who have trouble with hotmelt use too much. Just a little is plenty.

I found that Gorilla Glue Superglue works great on tips and nocks. And you CAN heat off the tips and glue a new tip on. A little pricy, but I never had a top come off! And you can replace knock too.

Make sure you clean out the oil in your tips first. When I'm doing a group of arrows I fill the first one with alcohol then pour that one into the next till they all have had it done to them. Put hot melt on your arrow tip. Heat up each tip till it shoots flame out then put arrow in it. Never had a tip come off like this

Lock tight supper glue on nocks and feathers and the white hot melt from 3-rivers on points

Pretty standard for me for woods for over. 30 years with great success. Bohning Ferrultite for heads, and Fletchtite for nocks and arrows.

If you put a finish on the nock taper of the shaft, you will have to use a glue that's compatible. Duco works will on polyurethane and enamel. Fletchtite on flexlac will work well also.

Should be Fletch-Lac.

On the hot melt, check out the Ferr-L-Tite low temp. It is a blue stick and works very well for me. I have found it to adhere and hold as well as the super glues. To remove or turn an insert or point, just heat it until it is just too hot to hold by fingers. For inserts in aluminum and carbon, you just heat a point and screw it into the insert allowing the heat to transfer from the point to the insert. Give a slight twist and remove it. A friend shoot wood shafts and has yet to have a point pull loose from bag targets, layered foam targets, or compressed cellotex.

Cheap hot glues works fine. If you feel like overspending you can get the stuff just for archery, but it's something Iv always cheaper out on and never had a problem, although iv never done anything but wood shafts.

Whatever glue you use.................. the shaft MUST be seated fully into the broadhead ferrule. Push the shaft & head into the side of workbench with body weight and hold until glue sets. With hot melt glue, you can use a damp rag on the head to cool it down until it sets, a few seconds. With epoxy, super glue or spit you need to figure a way to maintain pressure of the shaft into the head. If you just stick a head on the shaft with out fully seating it will come off or the shaft will drive up into the ferrule on impact possibly splitting the ferrule or losing energy.

I am pretty familiar with hot melt glue, except it's the type you use a hot melt glue gun to apply.

So that's why I asked if you can use it on nocks. So hot melt for archery purposes is a different glue that heats with a flame ?

When I finally choose an arrow to hunt with it follows practising a long time with the correct weight. Then when I choose a broadhead it's for keeps. I buy grizzlysticks$ I use 2 part epoxy. permanent. Im old school I guess.

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