I've been shooting the heck out of my new Shrew classic hunter. Its 56" 45# @26" which is my draw. I ordered gold tip 1535's and Ive been shooting them bareshaft with little success. I've been using a couple different lengths. Ive got fletched arrows cut to 27 1/4" which seem to fly well with 125gr. points and 100grain insert weights. Take the feathers off and I've got serious nock right(stiff spine) So.. I tried a full length 1535, same set up. little straighter maybe but still no good. They fly awful with feathers on wobbling through the air. I really don't want to be shooting an arrow that long anyhow. My brace height is 7 3/8. My nocking point is set to 1/2 high. Now Ron's info he sent with the bow indicates that the Shrews generally like arrows spined 15# heavier than the bows weight. I've not tried wood of that spine range yet. All I know is that the 1535's seem to shoot better shorter than they do longer, but bareshaft way stiff no matter what I do. I've also tried points all the way up to 200 grains and can't see much difference. When I first got the bow I was having some grip issues. I was holding the bow to tight and it was making my arrows bounce off the outside edge of the shelf. since I started shooting with a very loose grip with baisically just the web of my hand touching the bow my arrow flight improved with the shorter srrows. when you look at the wrap on the 28 1/2" shaft you can see streaks at the 3 oclock and 5 oclock position. On the shorter shafts they streak at the 5 oclock position. What the heck is going on? I shoot split fingered with a pretty deep hook right handed. I do notice I'm getting a nice caulise on my right ring finger.

Carbons are carbons. I shoot a Shrew from my ground blind, 48# at 28" drawn to 27. 15/35 gold tips with 170 grains up front. Shoots OK but still a bit left at times.

I never had trouble getting the right spine shafts with wood or aluminum, but carbons always seem to require more work.

I shoot a Supper Shrew 51# @28" with GT1535's and my draw is 27" but I don't cut my shafts. I leave them as they come from Big Jim. Mine shoot best with 200gr field tips on the end. My broadheads are anywhere from 160 gr plus inserts to 200 gr broadheads.

Are you shooting a tab or glove? That's the last finger I would expect to get a callouse. The least amount of pressure should be on your ring finger. At least that's what I have read. Just for the heck of it try more pressure on the index and middle finger and less on the ring finger. Maybe you are pushing the arrow downwards toward the rest

X2 on the finger pressure. Honestly, when I bare shaft carbons I don't pay any attention to the nock left/nock right orientation. Your release would have to be absolutely perfect to get a clean flying bare shaft. However, as long as your form is solid, I will guarantee that when you find the right combination they will hit where you are aiming. That's what is important. Not necessarily straight into the target, that's what fletching is for, but they will fly down the middle.

Do you have a nock above and below? Have you tried cock feather in?

My 47# shrew likes .600 spines. with 150-170 tips. When I am shooting bad it is mostly my release. Make sure you get a good clean release. I shoot 50-55 spine woodies out of it also.

I'm shooting a tab. Just a brass crimp on nock set. I guess I've been waiting for the right combination and I was planning on serving on a nock above and below. I tried cock feather in but it didn't seem to help me. also tried 4 fletch. I guess I'm jut looking to avoid shooting a full length tee pee pole when I have such a short draw. I'm thinking of picking up a dozen cedars in 50-55# for it too. I love wood, but the durability of carbon is great when it comes to stumping, and 3D shooting. I hate pulling a shaft from a 3D target and losing the point. You guys think the above mentioned spine range would be suitable for the Shrew at my draw?

For whatever reason, sounds like the shorter bow is giving you some issues as the callous on your lower finger is from the string dragging. Carbons are not difficult to tune but require different measures. It sounds to me as if the shaft is bouncing off of the bow and giving you false readings. To get things figured out, I believe you must first work out the finger/callous/release issue as this will hinder proper tuning. Are you shooting three under? If so, likely nock pt is too low. The 1535's at full length should work, but if anything, they might be on the stiff side.

BigJim

I shoot a high elbow...at least higher then recommended, and that has kept a callous on my ring finger for the past forty couple years. It's not unusual by any standard and is normally a product of personal form. So far, since the late 1960's, it hasn't affected my ability to tune the bow and get perfect arrow flight.

I use to put more pressure on my index finger and you could tell by my shooting glove wear. I now use a tab with a spacer.

go up to 35-55's

3555 are Way too stiff

Those 1535 should work with 175 or so tip weight.

With feathers you said you get good flight. Bad flight with bare shaft. Are you going to hunt with a bare shaft? If you are happy with the flight with feathers then go with them.

I'll hunt with feathers! I guess I just want the arrows to be all they can be. I started shooting a deep hook with my ring finger further out to the tip on the string this morning and had some luck. feels different but seemed like my release got a little cleaner. I also shot the 28 1/2" shafts with the cock feather in with zwickey eskilites and they seemed like they flew good when I could do my part. I know I need some form work.

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