I've built a few selfbows so I understand the tillering process. However I've never tried glass laminated bows. On selfbows all the material is removed from the belly. From what I have heard weight can come off fairly quickly when taken off the back of a glass bow. I have a bow I like a lot but it needs to lose about 5 pounds. How tough a job would it be for me to undertake this job myself? Does it take much sanding on the back to lose 5#? Any suggestions from you Bowyers would be appreciated.

Dire wolf has a good walk through on the subject

Good point Raptor. Maybe I can find a trade instead.

I have had a couple of my Hill bows reduced by Craig at HHA. My understanding is that he can get about 5# off his bows and this has been the case with mine. THe bows have looked exactly the same before and after, and shot perfectly. I believe he takes the wood off the sides of the glassed limbs, not the belly or back.

I took material off the sides of the limbs. Say you want to reduce by 10 percent- you would need to remove about 10 percent of the width.

My understanding is that trapping the limbs, that is creating a trapezoidal edge where more material is taken from the belly than the back of the limb is how weight is reduced. The belly of the bow is where most of the stress occurs (compression) and that's where the limb needs to be strongest. Weight reduction is best left to an experienced bowyer IMHO.

I've made quite a few glass bows. There's no magic to it. Trapping is probably a better option than flat sanding the back or belly glass.

I put masking tape on the belly and draw a new layout. Come in 1/8" on each side at the tips and draw a line running off the edge halfway down each limb. Use a file to connect your line to the edge of the back of the bow, leaving it full width. Be sure to round the edges slightly with sandpaper and test draw it. Trapping an 1/8" parallel down the limb after that if you need to loose more. You'll have a faster less shocky bow to be proud of! Note: if your bow is close to or stacking at your draw length you may be better trapping the working area at mid-limb first. This will improve the string angle.

I may stay clear of this job. I might try this on a beater bow sometime. Thanks guys I appreciate the info.

Steve, DON'T sand back or belly glass.That ain't the way to go..:(

Weight reductions are a matter of pure percentage of bow width in the limbs and how much weight you wish to remove..AND the limitations on how narrowly one can trim-sand glass lam bow edges without compromising lateral stability..

What's the draw weight NOW at your draw length?..Jim

57# if I could get to 52 I'd be golden. Best case would be to trade it I suppose. It's a dandy bow and I'd hate to wreck it.

Steve, You need a tad over an 8% reduction.. Measure the limbs at 6" stations and take the existing widths and reduce them by 8%.. EX; 1.5" WIDTH AT FADES WITH A 8% WIDTH REDUCTION WOULD MAKE THE LIMBS AT THE FADES ,,,,,120 thousandths narrower at that widest spot..Half on each limb edge..

Less reduced at the narrower limbs stations..A sanding block can reduce the limb edges and then round them in a matter of a few minutes..but you want a scale..a good layout..and marked stations on the limbs..Jim

Your tempting me Jim:) thanks!

Ah, just send it to Jim:)

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