From: Spider
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Date: 19-Apr-14 |
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Recently I've noticed that at longer ranges my arrows are flying a bit funny.I thought I had the bow tuned ok,but the arrows are telling me otherwise.There is no porpoising so the nock point should be ok.I used a test kit to determine the arrow spine.Not sure if its my release.Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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From: BATMAN
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Date: 19-Apr-14 |
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Spider, gotta offer more info so that the EXPERTS can chime in. Pls explain ( as best You can) What means FUNNY? Are they going side to side? Or what? BE WELL! Batman
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From: Spider
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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Im sorry I forgot to mention that they are flying side to side.But they impact the target straight.
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From: roger
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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Need specs: type of bow, draw weight at your draw length, type of arrow, length and point weight, etc.
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From: aromakr
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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An arrow wagging its tail at you is usually one of two causes. Spine or plucking the string. As said above need bow spec's and arrow spec's Bob
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From: Spider
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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The bow is a reflex/deflex longbow(Stikbow by Rich Emery) that is cut slightly past center., it's 43# @30".The arrows are beman carbons .400 spine 31.5" with 150 gr. tips.Thanks
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From: bigdog21
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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stiff spine try 200 gr tip or 50 gr. insert
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From: roger
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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I concur........too stiff. I don't know if point weight will be enough to fix it either, but try. If not, .500's should be the answer.
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From: bigdog21
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Date: 20-Apr-14 |
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if draw length is true 30" and ff string, 225 tip could possible do it 3 rivers has them in test kit. less then 30" draw yes you will need 500s. use 3 river, stus calculator. works good for me.
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From: Spider
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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One thing I'm still not clear on is center shot.When a bow is cut on center is it considered center shot.My bow is on center.If I misunderstood this its definitely why my arrows are spined wrong.
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From: woodinhand
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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To be center shot your bow would need to be cut center plus half diameter of your arrows plus side plate thickness.
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From: Hiram
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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Google "Tuning for tens" Learn to tune.
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From: TradTony
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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Longer ranges? 35, 40, 55? At longer ranges people tend to draw their bow to compensate for distance so the string may be getting tweaked at an odd angle. Draw your bow as if you were drawing at a close range target. At full draw use your hips only to elevate your bow to compensate for the distance. Don't worry about accuracy. Just focus on form and getting your arrows to the target with it fishtailing or porpoising.
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From: Marshall Law
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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Bigdog21 is onto the answer. Go to 3rivers site and use the dynamic spine calculator.
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From: TradTony
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Date: 21-Apr-14 |
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Marshall, Spider stated his bow was already tuned. If it is a spine issue then he would've caught it in the tuning process, I think. But here's a ? for ya, Spider; How did you tune your bow?
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From: Hiram
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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Try this,,put a long vertical line on a big target and start walking back and shooting.
If your arrow begins to go left?
You may be too stiff and either move your arrow inward or go to a heavier point or a lower spine arrow. If you move your centershot inward, you are putting the arrow more linear with the string and imparting more dynamic energy into the shaft which moves the nodes further apart to weaken the shaft. Raising your Brace height will tweak a dab and induce a little weakness also.
If your group is right?
Move the arrow outward or shorten the shaft or take away point weight, or go to a stiffer spine arrow. You may lower the BH if you can?
Reverse for a left handed archer.
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From: Easykeeper
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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Bare shaft tuning always works for me, but it won't eliminate the occasional shooter error. I've found the key to getting a good tune with bare shafts is to keep moving back, 15-20 yards gets you close but move back to 25-30 and the picture might be different.
This is the O.L. Adcock information, you probably are very familiar with the process but I'll put it up just in case...http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
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From: earl
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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Use 500 spine for that light of a bow.
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From: kenwilliams
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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I shoot 2016 aluminum arrows cut 30.5"bop with 125 grain points in my 51#@28" roy hall apache longbow that I draw 29". That arrow is .531 spine.I have tried some 2117's cut 30.5"bop with 175grain points that I use in my 50# super kodiak and they are too stiff for my longbow.
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From: kenwilliams
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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forgot to add this: the 2117 is 400 spine.
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From: Spider
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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Thank you to all for the good advice.Where I went wrong was the arrow spine.My bow is cut to center not centershot.I based the arrows on the 3rivers spine chart and then used a test kit.This was done at about 10-12 yards.At 30 yds I noticed the arrows flying funny.My release was also playing a role.I am still new to traditional archery and learning new things everyday.Thanks Bryan
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From: Hiram
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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Shooting at a vertical line will do more to improve your archery than ANY other kind of target. Read the Kidwell book for a detailed explanation of the bio-psycho-dynamics of why. Shooting at bulls-eyes is only good for scorekeeping and is part of the target archery heritage beginning with the victorian era target archers I believe.
The old English longbow men knew this many centuries ago. They shot at peeled saplings or stakes and called it "wand shooting". They also did long range practice called "clout shooting" that involved a stake with a rag attached--this was a ranges well beyond 100 yards. Walking a golf course and shooting at the "pins" with their flags would be a good approximation (though it might make the golfers unhappy). Archery Golf was a popular form of archery competition in the "classic era" of American archery but was soon superseded by scoring ring competition.-W Stiles
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From: Hiram
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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In regards to release, keep pulling and follow through straight back and inline. A dead release may cause you to pluck and torque the shot.
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From: surfrat
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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You need a real man's bow: 80+lb lb draw weight.. ;)
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From: doug
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Date: 22-Apr-14 |
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your arrows are over spined; go with a 600[GT15-35] or a 1916 alum.
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