Using wood arrows once again. Been awhile. So what do you guys use to attach points and nocks? I used hot melt previously but curious what most are using these days. Thanks.

hot melt point) and duco (Nock)

same since I started

stain and dip in oil base minwax poly, cap dip oil base rustoleum enamal, crest with testors enamals

can use water base stuf (works well also )

Super glue just about any brand, I'm thinking about going to a super glue jel as it stays put and does not drip from the shaft.

For the finishes that I use on my arrows I use Duco for nocks and amber colored hot melt for my points and broadheads.

The hot melt I get from Big Jims is far superior to others that I have used over the years. So far I have never lost a point. Like others Duco for the nocks.

Like others have said, I use Duco for nocks. I finish the taper (and the shaft) with oil based whipe-on poly. The Duco really does stick well to the oil based poly, and the nocks almost melt to the poly when using the the Duco. I use the Duco to attach the fletching to the poly.

I use Surebonder Acrylstick hot melt up front. Even though it says it is for a high temperature gun, it melts at a low temperature (I think 165 degrees F). It is sticky and stays way flexible in the deep freeze even. You can get it cheap at the local fabric store.

Bohning hot melt and Duco.

The best thing about traditional bowhunting is that "these days" is the sams as "those days". ;-)

Hot melt and Duco.

Hot melt and Duco too.

I use superglue. I don't like hotmelt, some people like it though. I've never been able to get it stick that well.

I love wooden arrows for a lot of reasons,and can't think of a down side other than the availability of good shafts where I live.

I've used a number of different glues but lately I've been using Gorilla glue jell and haven't had any problems with it.

I did try hot melt glue sticks made for glue guns but although it holds very well, it tends to set a bit fast for older slower clumsier hands,,,,like mine :^)

One thing,get the inside of your points clean before gluing up.

Jack.

Jack,

I have my little alcohol flame burning when I put the tips on using hot melt. I never get them seated correctly on the first motion of putting them on. I call it a motion because it isn't even a first "try", because the tips are cold and the glue sets before you can get them pushed all the way on--have no expectation of getting them on. I get them seated half way, and then stick the tip (half on the arrow now) in the flame to heat it up and remelt the glue. I then have all kinds of time to get it straight. Then dunk it in water when it is where I want it.

The nice thing about hot melt, is that you can repace a dinged up point or switch over to a broadhead really easy--just heat up the tip, take it off, and replace.

I think the secret to getting them to stick is rouging up the inside of the tip a little and then cleaning the metal with alcohol.

flour and water

Hot melt for points & Duco for nocks.

Probably the most important step in using Hot Melt for points is to clean the point well first. I also like to remove any finish from the taper. Cleaning the inside of the point is very important.

I don't like hot melt I have always prefered the ferril tite. Works better for me and I burn the ends of the shaft so if i have a break off its clean at the points and don't splinter the point section and I can retaped and repoint.

Speaking of wood arrows, I remember my Dad making wood arrows in the garage back in the 50s and 60s. Funny how I can still hear the drops of paint drip drip drip down on the newspaper as the arrow would bob up from the copper pipe that he filled with paint and hung on a string tied across the garage. He would take a pin, bend it over and stick it in the end of the arrow to hang it on the string. I also remember the sweet smell of the port orford cedar when he would cut the arrows to length. No idea why these memories came up...

Frank V brings up a critical step: You have to clean the inside of the field tips AND broadheads with acetone or high grade alcohol to get the machining oil and dust out of them or nothing will make them stick. It took me a dozen points to learn that...duh.

You also should be heating the tips so they are hot to receive the point which has been smeared with hotmelt. Then you can rotate them to seat them properly with a pair of pliers.

I then dip them in water to take the heat out and shrink em on the shaft. Seems to work for me.

Gorilla gel superglue for nocks, Top Hat screw-over-the-end of a untapered shaft points. No glue, no taper, self centering. I use to have to order them from the UK, now there's a couple of suppliers that are carrying them. 10 years ago I got them from 3 Rivers, then they quit carrying them. Used them once, got hooked. Oh, yeah, they do not come off unless you break the arrow, then you reuse them.

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